潘周家長壽面，到底有多長

朱麗珍

約600年前，潘周家的祖先們為了豐富飲食文化，用自家的小麥粉，在加工刀切面、包子和饅頭的基礎上研制出“潘周家手工面”。手藝代代相傳，村里500余戶幾乎家家都會做這手工面。

一檔名為《奶奶最懂得》的美食類節目在各大視頻平臺上線。一個中文說得很溜的英國人，名叫大米（），既是旅行者，也是美食大廚。他不僅深諳美食之道，還踏遍中國，尋找隱藏的美食。

節目中，他一路在中國旅行，尋找失傳的菜譜，尋找最樸實的情感，一共走了8個地方，找到了16位奶奶，探索隱藏到中華大地的家鄉味道。

節目第一期，大米來到了浙江金華，看上了金華浦江潘周家村的長壽面。這款長壽面，究竟有多神奇？

制面手藝代代相傳600年

浦江縣城北20余里，一嶺橫亙。以嶺為界，當地百姓稱嶺北為“山里”。“山里”平均氣溫比山外低3℃左右，過去交通不便，經濟也差一籌。潘周家村即在“山里”深處，群山環繞。

如今，山村還留存有不少徽派建筑，木結構的房子，讓村子愈顯寧靜。

不過每年11月之后，這種寧靜會被打破，家家戶戶都要著手做一件很有儀式感的事——曬長壽面。長壽長壽，一根到底最吉利，掛在面架上，線條感十足。古村落更是憑著這根手工長壽面煥發出新的生機。

為什么一個小小山村，幾乎家家戶戶都會做面條？這要從潘周家的歷史說起。

村里的老人介紹，潘周家村其實是兩個村，一個叫潘家，一個叫周家。由于兩個村莊已經連在一起，所以有了潘周家村的合稱。

約600年前，潘周家的祖先們為了豐富飲食文化，用自家的小麥粉，在加工刀切面、包子和饅頭的基礎上研制出“潘周家手工面”。

手工面的第一次揚名，不得不提潘周家出的一個名人——周璠。

如今潘周家還流傳一句諺語：“只有狀元的學生，沒有狀元的先生。”而周璠就是狀元的先生，而狀元說的就是他的學生戴殿泗。

周璠常以潘周家手工面招待文人詩友。一次，他的學生戴殿泗將此面帶入宮中，受到宮內嘉譽，因而享譽江南。

就這樣，做手工面的手藝代代相傳，村里1600余人口、500余戶，幾乎家家都會做這手工面。

兩斤面粉拉出200米的面條

做面聽起來沒什么稀奇的，但潘周家村的面，跟別處的不太一樣。

浦江當地人做壽，有吃長壽面的習俗。面條講求一根到底，寓意長長久久。潘周家的面，一斤面粉可以拉一百多米長，而且中間不斷，能討個好彩頭。

然而，周璠帶動面條，已經過去了兩百多年，但由于地處偏僻，讓潘周家面條走出山村卻變得困難。

35歲的周旭磊，從父輩開始就是做面條的，手藝在村里首屈一指。他總是能記起當年父親挑著擔子，翻山越嶺把面條賣到縣城的艱辛。

那時候，從潘周家到縣城，需要步行、轉車……單程就要兩個多小時。父親會挑著幾箱面條拿到縣城叫賣，天沒亮就出發，天黑了才到家。

雖然辛苦，但也看到了商機：山外的人，都認潘周家的面，每次幾十斤面條總是不夠賣。

年輕人，為面條想到了出路，也為山村帶來了活力。

2004年，潘周家注冊商標，2006年成立合作社，吸收農戶加入。潘周家的“一根面”，慢慢在縣城有了批發部。

如今，面條雖然仍舊需要手工生產，但配比有了標準，口感也有了保障。

2014年，周旭磊還帶著潘周家“一根面”參加了第八季《中國夢想秀》第四期節目。當場用2斤面粉，拉出長達200多米可繞演播廳一周的一根面，震驚全場的同時也獲得了滿堂喝彩。

潘周家的面條暢銷到什么地步？生意好的時候，一天能賣出一兩噸，訂單一排就是幾個月。

冬日面條曬場成獨特風景

有了合作社，潘周家的面，除了暑熱天氣，幾乎全年都在生產。但對于農戶自家來說，每年11月之后，天氣涼爽干燥，正是做“一根面”的好時候。

“一根面”要怎么做？村里隨便找個奶奶，都能給你演示一遍。

陳奶奶，70多歲了，從外村嫁過來，做“一根面”的手藝是婆婆教的。

“首先要把鹽放到麥粉里，攪拌起來。”鹽放多少？村里有個口訣：一斤麥粉半兩咸（）。不過現在口味清淡，許多人家里做面鹽放得少了。

待鹽融化后加入麥粉，揉成面團用力捶打，表面都光滑了，盤成圓圓的薄薄的一塊，繞圈把它切成一條線，然后拉長、揉搓。

面條要盤在架子上，每一根分散，斷了還要接起來。

和面、發酵、割面、盤面、脫條、晾曬……每一道工序，都很耗費時間。就拿拆分面條來說，分一次還不夠，稍微動一下，面條又黏了起來，起碼要分兩三次。經常要過來檢查，白天晚上都沒得休息。

“一根面”做工精細、制作工序復雜，具有久煮不糊、柔軟滑潤、嚼不粘齒的特點，面條筋道到筷子都夾不斷。在浦江當地吃“一根面”，服務員可能還會給你遞上一把剪刀，體驗也是蠻別致的。

對于很多在外的年輕人來說，這碗面，清清淡淡，能勾起家鄉的記憶簡簡單單卻足以暖心。

冬日暖陽，每家每戶都在曬場上支起面架，千萬條白色面線飛瀉而下，是一道獨特的風景，更吸引了不少攝影愛好者前來采風。

但因為工序復雜，為了一根面條，常常要沒日沒夜地守著。村里愿意做這行的年輕人越來越少。如今做面條的主力，都已經五六十歲。村里發展起了鄉村旅游，讓年輕人體驗制作“一根面”，用另一種方式將這種文化遺產傳承下去。

Almost every house in Panzhoujia Village in Pujiang County in central Zhejiang makes noodle， but it was not until recently that the fact was made known. Granny Knows Best， an eight-episode food documentary jointly produced by Tencent Media and Ryan Pyle Production which stars Jamie Billow， a British chef based in Beijing， has made the longevity noodle made in the mountain village in Pujiang well known in China.

Panzhoujia consists of two villages respectively called Panjia and Zhoujia （the two names literally refer to the Pan clan and the Zhou clan）. The two separate villages have long since merged into one. Granny Chen of Panzhoujia appears in the first episode of the food documentary released in October 2019.

The village nestles in the mountains about ten kilometers north of the county capital. In the past， the land-locked village was remote from anywhere and residents led a life that was far from being materially good. Noodle making in the village goes back to about 600 years ago. It was Zhou Fan， a native of Zhoujia Village and scholar of the Qing Dynasty （1644-1911）， who put the noodle-making village on the map of the country. Dai Diansi， a student of Zhou Fan， became a tutor to the prince who later became Emperor Daoguang ruling from 1820 to 1850. Zhou often treated his students and colleagues with the noodle made in his home village. Then one day Dai Diansi brought the noodle into the palace kitchen and made the noodle well known.

With a population of 1，600 in more than 500 families， the village is now known for noodle making.

But in the past， noodle didnt lift villagers out of poverty largely because of poor transportation. It took about 2 hours for an adult male to travel from the village to the county capital， the nearest big market. Zhou Xuelei， 35， remembers how his father set out on a noodle peddling journey long before dawn and came back home after dusk settled in. He carried a load of noodle with a shoulder pole. Noodle enjoyed a fine reputation， but the transportation was a huge barrier. Supply could not meet demand. It was not until 2004 that Panzhoujia decided to make noodle business big. That year， the village registered a trademark for the village noodle. In 2006， a noodle co-op was organized. Later， the co-op set up a wholesale outlet in the capital city. Business boomed. In 2009， the trademark was recognized as a famous brand in Jinhua. In 2015， it became a provincial trademark. Also in 2015， the Panzhoujia noodle co-op became a national model， the only one of its kind in Pujiang.

Nowadays， villagers still make the noodle manually. A standard recipe formulated to assure quality is faithfully followed by all noodle makers in the village. The time-consuming procedure needs a lot of attention. In some steps of the noodle-making process， one gets up one or two times a night to check whether unfinished product needs adjusting.

As the village sits in the mountains， noodle can be produced almost all year round except the hottest summer months. The best and busiest season starts in November. Panzhoujia has a record for noodle business： the co-op sells two tons of noodle a day. Production for all the orders in the winter season lasts till the Spring Festival. Most houses in the village have a drying ground. Noodle drying in the village is a scene in winter that attracts photographers and tourists. As tourists visit the village frequently， tourism has long since become a pillar of the village economy. After all， few young villagers are willing to be noodle makers. Most noodle makers in the village are in their 50s and 60s. However， as young villagers stay to serve tourists， they learn how to make noodle in their spare time and help their parents out when noodle-making gets busy.

The longevity noodle is interesting. As most Chinese people eat noodle on their birthday， such a birthday treat is usually called longevity noodle. The longevity noodle made in Panzhoujia is indeed long. In 2014， a noodle maker from the village demonstrated the noodle-making wonder in a national reality show. Using one kilogram flour， he made a single narrow ribbon-like noodle which was 200 meters long. His demonstration brought down the house.