一個展覽里的南宋小日子

俞吉吉

西溪濕地因為一句“西溪且留下”揚名中外，這句話正是宋高宗行經西溪欲建都于此時說的，“留下”這個浪漫的地名也由此而得。

西苑雅集，翩翩文人英辭秒墨，詩情畫意;汴京郊外，絕世佳人騎馬踏青，春意濃濃;勾欄瓦肆，歌舞升平，通宵不輟;市肆食店，集四海之奇珍，八荒之異味。歷經三百多年的宋朝稱得上是中國歷史上最為繁榮、風雅的時代之一了。

西溪濕地因為一句“西溪且留下”揚名中外，這句話正是宋高宗行經西溪欲建都于此時說的，“留下”這個浪漫的地名也由此而得。西溪濕地隱藏了不少南宋的印記，中國濕地博物館目前正在展出的“南宋記憶”主題展覽將這些印記一一揭開，展現了當年南宋人過的精致小日子。展覽將持續至2月29日。

文藝青年這樣潮

喜歡慢生活的人，一定都去過網紅地賞花拍照，打卡文創市集，其實南宋時期的文藝青年也一樣。

京城臨安就有花鳥市場，西溪地區是京城最大的花圃，尤其是花塢地區，堪稱南宋的“網紅花市”。現在西溪每年都舉辦的花朝節，從唐代就有了，到宋代達到鼎盛。南宋臨安以2月15日為花朝節，百姓們會在自家庭院中的花枝上掛紅綠綢布條，晚上則在花樹上掛起“花神燈”。外地游客也會趕來參加西溪花朝節，堪比如今的國慶長假，是南宋臨安的“旅游旺季”。

西溪燈會也是當時的一大盛會。南宋時期，西溪居民在祭祀林氏五廟之前，搭臺唱戲，祈求來年豐收。最熱鬧的是龍燈、滾燈、獅子燈、馬燈、花燈、拳燈這“六燈會”表演，放到現在，就相當于是迪士尼的花車巡游。

宋代人也養寵物，但當時流行的是養金魚。據史料記載，杭州是金魚的發源地。北宋時，大小佛寺中的放生池中已出現金魚的影子。到了南宋，宋高宗趙構在興建宮殿和園林的同時，專門放養了觀賞金魚，無意間引領了養金魚的時尚。西溪的金魚井，就是南宋時在此井中養金魚，供高宗在前往洞霄宮途中觀賞而得名的。

茶藝、茶花、香薰等，在宋代也一樣受到文藝青年的追捧。煮茶、焚香、掛畫、插花，被宋人合稱為“四藝”。宋人喜愛簪花，從朝廷官員到平民百姓均有此愛好，甚至男子簪花也極為普遍，反映了當時人們普遍的生活狀態和生活雅趣。看來，杭州人的慢生活，由來已久。展覽現場就有南宋點茶體驗和手工藝人古風花冠花簪制作，你可以在現場買一件來體驗宋人簪花的美，再去新年祈福墻寫一寫新年愿望，許愿來年平安喜樂。

吃貨們這樣吃

民以食為天，宋代西溪的飲食文化發達到什么程度呢？

民間有“南柴北米，東菜西魚”的俗諺，西溪是當時整個杭州水產市場的“活魚庫”，這里有極為完備、專業的販魚組織——魚行。無論是河鮮水產的商販還是老百姓都愛去市集買西溪的魚蝦，因為西溪的魚特別好吃。為什么呢？這離不開西溪獨有的天然良性可循環池塘生態系統——竹基、柿基和桑基魚塘。

怎么吃魚才最好吃？南宋人也有研究，發展出了船宴文化。上至帝王將相，下至文人騷客，無不以此宴食為上。文人墨客泛舟西溪水上，舉盞交杯、品評美食。現在去西溪濕地，仍然保留了船宴的習俗，并進行了改良升級，游客可以坐著搖櫓船穿行水上，品嘗新鮮地道的西溪魚火鍋，體驗一回南宋船宴。

宋代吃貨也愛逛街，當時的商業街，一點都不比現在的差。分茶店、豝[bā]鲊[zhǎ]（）店、南食店、涼水店、果子店、茶樓、油鋪、湯店、藥店、衣料店、胭脂鋪、花朵鋪、珠子鋪、扇鋪、漆器鋪、瓷器鋪、首飾作坊、書坊、質庫、金銀鹽鈔引交易鋪……琳瑯滿目。

最好玩的是涼水店，原來南宋當時也流行甜品店。《西湖老人繁盛錄》里記載了南宋臨安的各種糖水，比如甘豆湯、椰子酒、鹵梅水、木瓜汁、荔枝膏、梅花酒、五苓散、紫蘇飲、皂兒水、綠豆水、亂糖真雪、富家散暑藥冰水、豆兒水、姜蜜水、沉香水、苦水、金橘水、香薷飲等等。這里面的西溪必吃榜單上必定有梅花泉酒。西溪水質上乘，適宜釀酒，釀酒業是西溪市鎮的主要產業。南宋時西溪酒庫所釀的酒名為“梅花泉酒”，水源來自西溪之北柏家園左的梅花泉，其酒由此得名。

當然，街上也有西溪庫這樣的大酒樓，地位堪比如今的樓外樓。錦絲頭羹、四軟羹、二色腰子、鹽酒腰子、雞絲簽、鵝粉簽、蒸軟羊、羊蹄筍、五味炙小雞、假炙江瑤肚尖、香螺膾、鵪子水晶膾、酒法青蝦、生燒酒蠣、水龍蝦魚、蟹釀橙、銀魚炒鱔、蚶子明芽肚、蛤蜊淡菜、米脯風鰻……特色菜品光是看看菜單就讓人垂涎。

運動達人這樣玩

宋室南渡后，汴京許多風俗被帶到臨安，龍舟競渡承汴京金明池遺風，盛況空前。南宋杭州的賽龍舟一年有兩次，一次在二月初八開始，一直延續到清明;另一次在端午前后，自五月初一至初十。西溪賽龍舟始于唐代，興盛于南宋。如今，從西溪端午節龍舟勝會中的滿天幛龍舟身上，就可以窺見南宋龍舟之遺韻。

養鳥、斗蟋蟀、斗蟻蔚然成風，相撲、弈棋、蹴鞠、打球成了全民運動。南宋市民精神文化和娛樂生活之豐富，大大超越了之前的朝代。

南宋，是斗蟋史上最著名的時代。都城內的市井坊巷里隨處可見斗蟋蟀、對弈的小攤，百姓們圍得密不透風，拍手叫好。《西湖老人繁盛錄》記載：“促織（）盛出，都民好養，或用銀絲為籠，或作樓臺為籠，或瓦盆竹籠，或金漆籠、板籠甚多。每日早晨，多于官巷南北作市，常有三五十人火斗者。”

此次“南宋記憶”展覽中還有捶丸、投壺體驗。

捶丸，是中國古代漢族球戲之一。前身是唐代馬球中的步打球。到了宋朝，步打球由原來的同場對抗性競賽逐漸演變為依次擊球的非對抗性比賽，球門改為球穴，名稱也隨之改稱為“步擊”“捶丸”。

投壺則是從先秦延續至清末的中國傳統禮儀和宴飲活動。宴請的時候，如果主人家庭院不夠寬闊，不足以張侯置鵠，或者由于賓客眾多，不足以備弓比耦，又或是有的賓客的確不會射箭，這時候玩一局趣味性十足的投壺來代替彎弓射箭，既活躍了宴席氛圍，又不會讓嘉賓尷尬，大可以樂嘉賓、以成禮儀。

Memory of the Southern Song， an exhibition on the lifestyle of the dynasty centered in Hangzhou （called Linan back then）， is now ongoing till February 29 at China Wetlands Museum in Hangzhou.

The Southern Song （1127-1279） represents the best years Hangzhou had ever seen in the feudal era. Thanks to detailed historical records and books written during or shortly after the dynasty， we now know a great deal about cultural activities people had back then.

One of the entertainment and recreation centers of the capital city was West Creek， which was several kilometers outside the walled city in the past and is now hemmed in by the urban sprawl of Hangzhou. The name is still in use today. The creek area is now a national wetland park， which preserves the pristine wetland and the rural lifestyle that has been around for more than 1，000 years. Back in the Southern Song， West Creek was as famous as the West Lake as a tourist attraction for people in the city.

A large part of the exhibition is about the leisure lifestyle of West Creek.

The capital city had a market for flowers and pet birds. West Creek housed the citys largest flower nursery. The Flower Festival， now held annually at West Creek， can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty （618-907）. The celebration of the annual festival thrived in the Southern Song on February 15th on the lunar calendar. West Creek Lantern Festivities were a popular attraction on a day that local residents held a public sacrifice ceremony at five temples in honor of their ancestors. Among these festivities was a grand lantern parade.

In the Song Dynasty， people loved pets. The most popular pet was goldfish. According to history， Hangzhou was where golden fish was first cultivated. In the Northern Song （960-1127）， religious temples across the country had goldfish in their ponds where disciples let go captive fish and turtles， etc. In the Southern Song， Emperor Zhao Gou had a goldfish pond in the Forbidden City. Goldfish Well in West Creek is said to have been built so that the emperor could stop there to view goldfish in the well on his way to visit the Dongxiao Temple.

Tea， flower and scented incense were popular fashions in everyday life of local people in the Song Dynasty. Many people including government officials wore flowers on “the lapel of their suit”， so to speak. If the statement that life in Hangzhou is fascinatingly and luxuriously slow is true， this seemingly leisure can at least be traced back to the Southern Song.

West Creek used to be the fish tank for the citys fish market simply because there were high-quality fish ponds in West Creek. Taking a pleasure boat tour and having a fish banquet on the boat in West Creek where rivers and ponds were numerous was a must-have experience for royal visitors and common people. A fish banquet on a pleasure boat is available today for tourists to the West Creek.

The capital city offered shopping streets where separate shops combined to serve as a department store. A look at a list of all the businesses there would make one wonder how life was good and colorful and fancy back then. For example， the sweet beverage shop offered a great variety of sugared soft drinks. Many were fruit drinks and many were herbal drinks. Another big pillar of West Creeks economy was wine making thanks to the high-quality water. The West Creek had many grand restaurants. The menus of these restaurants look mouthwatering even today.

When the Northern Song crashed， the royal house fled the north and set up the Southern Song in Linan （present-day Hangzhou）， followed by a great number of people. The northern lifestyle was brought over to the south. “Dragon boat racing” was an event that carried the tradition of the northern even though the race started in the Tang Dynasty in West Creek. In West Creek， dragon boat racing was held twice a year. The first race started on the 8th day of the lunar February till the Qingming Festival in early April. The second race lasted 10 days from May 1 to 10 on the lunar calendar in celebration of the Duanwu Festival which occurs on the fifth day of the lunar May.

In addition to hobbies such as keeping pet birds， cricket fighting， ant fighting， sporting games such as wrestle， football， and chess were popular in the Southern Song Dynasty.