宋錦：一針一線鑄就千年歷史

起源于宋代的宋錦，穿越千年時光，在蘇州上久楷絲綢科技文化有限公司的創(chuàng)新發(fā)展下，散發(fā)出時尚現(xiàn)代的魅力。北京APEC、杭州G20峰會、阿斯塔納世博會、金磚峰會等國際性會議上都可以看到上久楷宋錦產(chǎn)品的身影，成為了中國絲綢行業(yè)的一張靚麗名片。本刊專訪吳江鼎盛絲綢有限公司、蘇州上久楷絲綢科技文化有限公司董事長吳建華，看上久楷怎樣創(chuàng)新助推絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)、非遺文化技藝的傳承和發(fā)展。

Song brocade， which originated in the Song Dynasty， has thousands of years history. With the innovation and development of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co.， Ltd.， it is full with fashionable and modern charm. Shangjiukai Song brocade products were seen in Beijing APEC， Hangzhou G20 Summit， Astana World Expo， BRICS Summit and other international conferences， becoming a beautiful business card of Chinese silk industry.

CT：請您先介紹一下貴公司在面料、工藝和設計上的特色和理念。

吳建華：上久楷在面料、工藝和設計上的特色是將宋錦非遺技藝融入時尚元素，使得我們的宋錦成為一種文化符號，融入生活的方方面面。同時讓非遺宋錦變得更加時尚也是我們一貫秉承的理念，在弘揚中國傳統(tǒng)文化上作出自己的貢獻。

CT：紡織品和紡織工藝是多種多樣的，貴公司為什么會專注于中國傳統(tǒng)的宋錦面料的工藝研發(fā)設計？

吳建華：宋錦對我們來說不僅僅是中華文化，更是世界的瑰寶，作為深耕絲綢行業(yè)多年的從業(yè)者來說，如果非遺宋錦在我們這代人手中消亡那將是莫大的罪過，所以我們一定要肩負起傳承和保護的責任；而且在發(fā)掘保護的過程中，我們也努力地讓宋錦更好的可持續(xù)發(fā)展起來，宋錦的獨特的魅力，讓我們看到了它內(nèi)在的文化價值和產(chǎn)業(yè)化的商業(yè)價值。

CT：與其他工藝相比，宋錦在設計研發(fā)上有什么難點，目前技術產(chǎn)業(yè)化的成果怎樣？

吳建華：原先的手工宋錦每天只能織出6厘米而已，生產(chǎn)效率很低，加上門幅只有70厘米，制作花本和更換花型極度復雜導致近代沒有企業(yè)在宋錦產(chǎn)業(yè)化和規(guī)模化上有很大的突破。直到2012年，我們經(jīng)過不斷試驗，改造出世界上第一臺現(xiàn)代化宋錦織機后，生產(chǎn)效率才得到大幅度提升。在成為了宋錦國家標準的第一起草單位后，我們利用宋錦耐磨性好、圖案立體感強的優(yōu)勢，又創(chuàng)造性地將其應用在箱包、服裝、家紡、工藝品等領域并且獲得了多項發(fā)明專利；我們生產(chǎn)的宋錦產(chǎn)品多次入選北京APEC、杭州G20峰會、阿斯塔納世博會、金磚峰會、博鰲論壇、上合組織峰會、江蘇發(fā)展大會等大型活動。

CT：您怎么看待宋錦的研發(fā)空間和時尚趨勢，未來貴公司的設計研發(fā)方向是什么？

吳建華：未來我們將在宋錦的新工藝上做出更多的突破，利用新材料結(jié)合桑蠶絲在應用開發(fā)和功能性上做一系列大膽的探索，把中國傳統(tǒng)文化與國際時尚元素緊密貼合，讓宋錦更具有獨特的國潮魅力。

CT：在國潮興起、中國式美學回歸的當下，您認為傳統(tǒng)的面料、非遺工藝是否迎來復興契機，您在這方面哪些思考，對行業(yè)同仁們有什么建議？

吳建華：迎著“一帶一路”春風 宋錦的傳承和發(fā)揚可以尋找到更好的生長土壤，經(jīng)典時尚的面料及設計和蘊含的民族特色與文化內(nèi)涵相互結(jié)合，讓時尚變得更有文化，讓文化變得更加時尚；在國潮流行趨勢下也會有更好，更時尚的發(fā)展空間。

希望絲綢行業(yè)的同仁能在絲綢創(chuàng)新上多做大膽的嘗試，在利用現(xiàn)代科技進步的優(yōu)勢下，充分挖掘紡織非遺的文化內(nèi)涵底蘊和獨特的技藝，打造出符合時尚潮流的絲綢文化產(chǎn)品，同時在文化融合與品牌打造中有更大的貢獻。

CT： Could you introduce the features and concepts of your fabric， techniques and designing？

Wu Jianhua： Shangjiukai’s characteristics in fabric， craft and design is to integrate Song brocade intangible heritage techniques into fashion elements， making Song brocade become a cultural symbol， integrated into every aspect of life. At the same time， we always uphold the idea of making Song brocade more fashionable， and make our own contribution to the promotion of traditional Chinese culture.

CT： There are versatile textiles and textile technologies， why are you concentrated on the R&D of Song brocade fabric？

Wu Jianhua： Song brocade is not only the Chinese culture to us， but also the treasure of the world. As a practitioner who has been deeply involved in the silk industry for many years， it would be a great sin if Song brocade dies in our generation， so we must shoulder the responsibility of inheritance and protection. Moreover， in the process of excavation and protection， we also strive to develop the industry better and sustainable. Its unique charm lets us see its both cultural value and commercial value.

CT： Compared with other techniques， are there any difficulties in designing on the Song brocade？ What achievements have been made currently？

Wu Jianhua： Song brocade can weave 6 centimeters by hand a day， which is very inefficient， and the width is only 70 centi-meters. Changing patterns are extremely complicated， which cannot lead to a great breakthrough in industrialization in modern times. It was not until 2012 that we transformed the world’s first modern Song brocade loom through continuous experiments， and the production efficiency was greatly improved. After becoming the first drafting unit of the national standard of Song brocade， we took advantage of its good wear resistance and strong three-dimensional sense， and creatively applied it to bags， clothing， home textiles， handicrafts and other fields and obtained a number of invention patents. Our products have been selected for many large-scale events such as Beijing APEC， Hangzhou G20 Summit， Astana World Expo， BRICS Summit， Boao Forum， SCO Summit and Jiangsu Development Conference.

CT： What’s your opinion on the R&D and fashion trend of Song brocade？

Wu Jianhua： In the future， we will do more works in Song brocade new technology， make a series of explorations in application development and functionality by using new materials and mulberry silk， and closely integrate Chinese traditional culture with international fashion elements， so as to make Song brocade have a unique Chinese charm.

CT： With the tides of Chinese aesthetics， what are the opportunities for traditional fabrics and intangible technologies？ And what suggestions do you have for the industry practitioners？

Wu Jianhua： With the breeze of "the Belt and Road initiative"， the inheritance and development of Song brocade will find a better growing soil. The combination of classic fashionable fabrics and designs and cultural connotations， making culture rejuvenated with vitality. There will be a better and more fashionable development space under the current national trend. We hope that people who work in the silk industry do more attempts in silk innovation， at the same time make greater contributions to cultural integration and brand building.