非遺小吃 最重慶的味道

楊艷

重慶自古物產豐富，食材多樣，巴渝大地人員往來頻繁，也帶來了飲食的多元化。勤勞的重慶人民創(chuàng)造了極具巴渝地域色彩和民俗風情的地方小吃，就地取材造就的美食，反映了當地的物質文化及社會生活風貌，是在外游子牽掛的鄉(xiāng)愁滋味，也是游客了解一座城市最地道的載體。

重慶不僅有豪放熱辣的火鍋文化，還有燦若群星的小吃文化，幾乎每個區(qū)縣都擁有自己獨特的地方小吃。萬州有一碗津津有味的雜醬面，身在武陵山區(qū)的酉陽人鐘愛一口土家族油茶湯，豐都人引以為傲的是麻辣雞塊，黔江人的心頭好是一碗綠豆粉……從食物原料到制作方式，融入非遺技藝的地方特色小吃體現了重慶豐富的飲食文化，更體現了重慶人對于美食的熱愛。

“種撒白露間，移栽寒露田。經冬蘊采厚，春獲翡翠千。習風送露走，腌榨土窖壇。育得百味長，開壇萬家香。”世代相傳的詩句形象地反映了涪陵榨菜從“種下去”到“端上來”的過程。涪陵榨菜的手藝人執(zhí)著地在寸碟天地間，堅守著以誠為本的匠人精神。120多年來，一碟碟榨菜從最初長江兩岸百姓餐桌上的佐餐小食，演變成中國人餐桌上的“國民下飯菜”。

早在2008年，涪陵榨菜傳統(tǒng)制作技藝就被列入國家級非物質文化遺產名錄。1915年，首屆“巴拿馬—太平洋國際博覽會”在美國舊金山舉行，中國涪陵榨菜榮獲金獎，從此蜚聲中外。1970年在法國舉行的世界醬香菜評比會上，涪陵榨菜更是與德國甜酸甘蘭、法國酸黃瓜被并稱為世界三大名腌菜。

永川區(qū)以生產豆豉而聞名，素有“豆豉之鄉(xiāng)”的美稱。永川豆豉生產工藝起源于永川家庭作坊，已有300多年的歷史。豆豉是大豆煮熟后，經過幽閉發(fā)酵而成。將一粒豆豉放進嘴里，輕輕咬破，豆豉在舌齒的摩擦力作用下迅速融化，香氣濃郁，滋味鮮美。

合川桃片是重慶市合川區(qū)傳統(tǒng)名點之一，始創(chuàng)于1840年。桃片用上等糯米、核桃仁、白砂糖、蜜玫瑰等原料精制而成。特點為口感細潤、綿軟，片薄、色潔白、味香甜，突出濃郁的桃仁、玫瑰香味。1917年曾在巴拿馬萬國博覽會上榮獲金獎。其制作工藝于2007年5月被列入首批重慶市級非物質文化遺產名錄。

黔江區(qū)的濯水綠豆粉歷史悠久，是當地人早餐、夜宵必不可少的美食。原料由粳稻米、黃豆和綠豆按一定比例配制而成，制作過程講究“泡、磨、烙、燙”四道工序，因其制作工藝簡單、便捷，口感香軟、爽口，在黔江就成了一道大眾化的美食。

在彭水，香、甜、酥、脆的郁山搟酥餅，至今已有兩百多年的歷史，搟酥餅技藝已被列入重慶市級非物質文化遺產名錄。其配料精致，采用上等的面粉、飴糖、芝麻、黃豆、桂花、陳皮等原料，經手工精制而成，屬于純天然的健康食品。有名人食后曰：“食盡江南珍饈味，始知郁鎮(zhèn)有搟酥。”

豐都麻辣雞塊的起源最早可追溯到唐宋時期，色澤紅亮鮮香，香味濃郁四溢，味道麻辣鮮甜，入口肉質勁道而細嫩，榮獲“重慶老字號”“中華名小吃”“重慶名小吃”等稱號。如今，借助電商，豐都麻辣雞塊已暢銷國內、遠銷海外。

此外，以美食為主的民俗活動也成為了市級非遺項目，比如，秀山的社飯制作與分享習俗，彭水的土家族三道席傳統(tǒng)習俗，萬盛的茶樹紅苗長桌宴……都極具地域特色，承載著濃濃的鄉(xiāng)愁。

對于老重慶人來說，這些美食是一種舌尖記憶，它體現著巴渝市井風情，蘊含著百姓的無限情思。來重慶，嘗一口當地人用一輩子守候的味道，或許更能體會美味的重慶生活。

圖片/相關區(qū)縣宣傳部、文化旅游委提供

Since ancient times， Chongqing has been teemed with abundant natural resources and diverse food materials. Frequent personnel exchanges on the land of Bayu have also brought about the diversification of diet. The industrious Chongqing people? crafted local snacks with distinct regional and folk characteristics of Bayu. The tasty cuisines made from local materials reflect the local material culture and social outlook，? fixating the nostalgia of wanderers and acting as the most authentic carrier for travelers to dip into a city.

Chongqing not only boasts a unrestrained and spicy hot pot culture， but is also known for its splendid snack culture. Almost every district owns unique local snacks. Wanzhou offers a bowl of noodles with meat sauce， Youyang people in Wuling mountainous area love Tujia fried flour soup， Fengdu folks are proud of spicy diced chicken， and Qianjiang residents fall for a bowl of mung bean powder... From food raw materials to production methods， local characteristic snacks integrated with intangible cultural heritage techniques reflect the Chongqing's rich gastronomical culture and its people's enthusiasm for food.

"Planted in the White Dew and transplanted in the Cold Dew fields， after the winter cultivation， thousands of emerald-like sprouts are harvested. As the dew is sent away by the breeze， pickle the mustard stems in the earthen altars. A lingering taste is eventually brewed， and a durable aroma spreads to millions of households."? The verse handed down from generation to generation vividly demonstrates the process of Fuling mustard pickle from "planting" to "serving". The craftsmen of Fuling pickle stick to the spirit of honesty in the gastronomical world. For over 120 years， pickle has evolved from a snack for households' on the banks of the Yangtze River to a "national side dish" on the meal tables of all Chinese people.

As early as 2008， Fuling pickle traditional production techniques were included in the national intangible cultural heritage list. In 1915， the first "Panama Pacific International Exposition" was held in San Francisco， US， where Fuling pickle of China won the gold medal and became renowned at home and abroad. Fuling pickle， together with German Red Cabbage and French Pickled Cucumbers， was known as the world's three famous pickles during a sauce & pickle appraisal conference in France in 1970s.

Yongchuan District， famous for producing fermented soybeans， is crowned as the "hometown of fermented soybeans". Yongchuan fermented soybean production technology originated from a Yongchuan family workshop， dated over 300 years ago. Fermented soybeans are made by fermentation after the soybeans are fully cooked. By gently chewing a fermented soy bean in the mouth， one will be overwhelmed by its full-bodied aroma and delicious taste unleashed from the instant thawing of the bean? between the frictions of the tongue and the teeth.

Founded in 1840， Hechuan Juglans Slices is one of the traditional famous pastry in Hechuan District of Chongqing. Made of high-grade glutinous rice， juglans kernel， white granulated sugar， honey rose and other raw materials， it is characterized by delicate and soft texture， thin slices， white color， sweet taste， and a distinct aroma of juglans and rose. It won the gold medal at Panama International Exposition in 1917 and its production process was listed in the first batch of Chongqing Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage in May， 2007.

With a long history， Zhuoshui Mung Bean Powder in Qianjiang District is an indispensable choice for breakfast and dinner among local people. Made of Japonica rice， soybean and mung bean according to a certain proportion， the Mung Bean Power is produced with an emphasis on four processes of "soaking， grinding， baking and scalding". Given its simple and swift production process as well as soft and refreshing taste， it has become a popular food in Qianjiang.

In Pengshui， Yushan crispy cake， which is fragrant， sweet， crispy and crunchy， has a history of more than 200 years. The cake-rolling technique has been listed in Chongqing Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage Hand made with refined ingredients， e.g. high-quality flour， malt sugar， sesame， soybeans， sweet-scented osmanthus， orange peel， it is a 100% natural health food. A celebrity once chanted about the aroma of sweet-scented osmanthus， "after tasting all the delicacies in the south of the Yangtze River， the finest I found is the hand-rolled crispy cake in Yushan Town."

The origin of Fengdu Spicy Diced Chicken can be traced back to the Tang and Song dynasties. Reputed for its bright red color， rich aroma， spicy and savory taste， chewy and delicate texture， it has won the honorary titles of "Chongqing time-honored brand"， "Chinese famous snack" and "Chongqing famous snack". Riding the wave of e-commerce， Fengdu Spicy Diced Chicken have been sold well at home and abroad.

In addition， folk activities centered upon food have also become municipal intangible cultural heritage programs. For example， the custom of making and sharing fete meals in Xiushan， the traditional custom of Tujia banquet in Pengshui， and Wansheng's tea-tree seedling long-table banquet all have strong regional characteristics and lure one to go home.

For long-time Chongqing dwellers， these delicacies are a kind palate memory， which mirrors the local customs of Bayu and contains the infinite attachment of its people. By visiting Chongqing and have a bite of the time-honored cuisines here， one can gain an insight of typical Chongqing life immersed in its kaleidoscopic food culture.

Photos/Publicity departments and cultural tourism committees of relevant districts and counties