蘭溪有戲有味

唐旭昱

浙江省中西部，有座叫蘭溪的江南小城。它素有“錢塘第一商埠”“民國第一縣”“小上海”之稱，是宋徽宗題譽的“天下江南”，也是“東方莎士比亞”李漁的故鄉。

婺江、衢江在蘭陰山麓匯成蘭江，一路向北，入富春江，至富陽以下，連通錢塘江。聳立在蘭江之濱的蘭溪，文化底蘊深厚，自然風光旖旎，商埠貿易繁華。元代詩人薩都剌途經蘭溪時忍不住夸贊：“越船一葉蘭江上，載得金華一半秋。”

自唐咸亨五年（674）建縣，儒家文化、山水文化、美食文化、中醫藥文化等優秀傳統文化在此生生不息。如今，蘭溪挖掘千年歷史文脈，整合開發文化資源，以李漁文化提升城市品位和城市辨識度、美譽度，打響了“蘭溪日子 有戲有味”的地方IP，為城市發展不斷注入文化原動力。

蘭江千載北行水? 映照千古人文情

蘭溪老城的東門牌樓旁，藏著一家并不顯眼的舊書店。書店沒有店名，門口擺放著幾張小木凳，高矮不一。小木凳常常有人坐，走近細聽，他們多是聊些本地文化圈的事。1970年出生的老板潘志平是一名收藏愛好者，從收藏小人書連環畫開始，到專注于蘭溪地方文獻收藏。

有人說，要找與蘭溪歷史、文化有關的書籍，就得找老潘。自然而然，他的小店成了一些蘭溪文化愛好者和研究者的聚集地。這群人，多來自一個民間組織——蘭溪市文史與文獻研究會，潘志平也是會員之一。每年，研究會要出兩期《蘭溪文史文獻》，大家說：“蘭溪的文化，有的挖，值得挖。”

國家文化先進市，傳統建筑之鄉，省級歷史文化名城，省民間文化藝術之鄉，在文化上，蘭溪的美譽很多，且量大質高、特色鮮明。

曾有專家這樣描述：在全國挑選十座保存完好的古城，蘭溪古城算得上其中一座;在全國挑選百個保存完好的古鎮，蘭溪可以入圍三個，分別是游埠、女埠和永昌;在全國挑選千個保存完好的古村，蘭溪至少有十個，分別是諸葛八卦村、長樂村、芝堰村、渡瀆村、虹霓山村、姚村等。現在，蘭溪有1個國家歷史文化街區（天福山社區）、8處全國重點文保單位、37處省級文保單位以及2600多處文物登錄點，是全國祠堂最密集的地區之一，古書院數量居浙江首位。

蘭溪亦是名人的故鄉，孕育了黃初平、貫休、范浚、金履祥、柳貫、章懋、方太古、唐龍、趙志皋、胡應麟、李漁、郎靜山、曹聚仁、曹謨、倪汝霖、方增先等眾多歷史文化名人，僅歷代進士就有230余人。

作為錢塘江上重要的“詩路門戶”，上至高官貴人、富家子弟、文朋詩客，下至商賈小販、掮客挑夫、平民百姓，或逗留，或專訪，紛紛踏跡而來，賞景賦詩。明代詩人唐龍稱贊：“蘭花十里照春水，山鳥無聲香自幽。”大唐名人戴叔倫吟唱：“涼月如眉掛柳灣，越中山色鏡中看。蘭溪三日桃花雨，半夜鯉魚來上灘。”“旅游博主”郁達夫忍不住寫下：“紅葉清溪水急流，蘭江風物最宜秋。”才華橫溢的李漁對家鄉的熱愛更是熾熱：看一眼不足為奇，看兩眼怦然心動，看三眼引人入勝。

據不完全統計，在蘭溪留下足跡的詩人有400多位，蘭溪流傳著杜牧的《江上偶風》、楊萬里的《蘭溪解舟詩》、唐龍的《蘭溪八景》、李漁的《笠翁對韻》、郁達夫的《蘭溪棲真寺題壁》等詩篇名作近萬首。

閑情偶寄溪山靜? 越中還說李漁戲

現在大家都在談跨界，其實李漁早就是一個跨界先驅。他的頭銜有很多，詩人、小說家、劇作家、戲劇理論家、出版家、美食家、園林藝術家、社會活動家……有人笑言，李漁若是要給自己印名片，那名片必定得做成手風琴狀。

李漁路、李漁戲劇、李漁茶、李漁家釀……穿越400余年，李漁儼然成了休閑蘭溪響當當的城市代言人。在蘭溪和金華市區（蘭溪隸屬金華），我們能在很多地方“遇見”李漁，劇院、博物館、公園里、馬路上、飯店里……“閑情偶寄”正是當下之慕求，李漁無處不在。

一邊喝茶吃點心，一邊看戲聽曲，古時看戲的場景，在蘭溪永昌街道夏李村重現。這是李漁的故鄉，“李漁家班”重建的消息已不脛而走。“在村里劇場排練過好幾次呢，聽著有意思。”夏李村的村民們津津樂道。

李漁家班曾紅極一時，他的家庭戲班出關入關各地巡演，名滿大江南北。蒲松齡曾在看完李漁家班的演出后寫了一首題為《孫樹百先生壽日觀梨園歌舞》七言詩，詩云：“簾幕深開燈輝煌，氍毹暝鋪晝錦堂……藕粉搖曳錦繡裳，黃鵝跌舞帶柔長……輕裾小袖奉霞觴，愿君遐齡齊山岡。”

此詩不僅形象生動地描述了李漁家班的精彩演出，而且還寫出了戲班行頭道具之齊整和舞臺燈光布景之華麗，說明此時的李漁家班確實已非同一般。

行萬里路，交八方友。賣文謀生的李漁，一不小心成了友遍天下的社交達人。李漁交游見于記載且有姓名的就有800余人。他的朋友圈十分廣泛，如超級大V曹寅、蒲松齡、吳偉業、錢謙益都是他的朋友，“海內八大家”“燕臺七子”“西泠十子”中的大多數人與他都有交情。他也很接地氣，三教九流、販夫走卒都能成為他的知己。

有著“東方莎士比亞”美譽的李漁，是蘭溪特有的文化符號。

金華各縣市性格不同，李漁是蘭溪人性格的代言人：做事不徐不疾，克制、中庸、有教養，能把生活過得精致有味。難怪李漁知音不斷，現代為甚。他早就告訴人們，追求名利但不能狂熱，要張弛有度，懂得生活的本真。

走進夏李村，戲劇小鎮的打造已頗具規模：實景演繹笠翁對韻、打造斗戲非遺項目、開發戲劇文創產品、展示十種曲經典劇目，村中李漁故居、李氏宗祠、李漁壩等讓人流連。村口那座過路涼亭“且停亭”，堪稱全國名亭，那副楹聯“名乎利乎道路奔波休碌碌，來者往者溪山清靜且停停”，就是李漁對夏李、對生活最好的注腳。

李漁是個寶藏，他喜歡庭園、美人、美食、花卉、戲曲歌舞……一切俗人喜歡的，他都喜歡，而且喜歡得深入、高級。

近年來，蘭溪以“李漁文化”為起點，組建李漁研究會，深入研究李漁思想、挖掘李漁文化資源;舉辦“重返芥子園”系列活動，邀請國內外藝術大咖齊聚蘭溪，共同交流傳承傳統文化;通過與中戲協合作承辦李漁戲劇文化節，啟動“跟著婺劇游蘭溪”等活動，有效提煉豐富李漁文化內涵，推動婺劇等傳統文化創造性傳承。

閑雅從容煙火氣? 今朝筆落促文旅

生活的本真不止詩和遠方，還有當下一磚一瓦、一碟一菜的煙火氣息， 這也是現代人在快節奏都市生活中對休閑、舒適生活的追求。蘭溪日子，在不徐不疾的節奏中找到了幸福的“密鑰”，就像李漁的《閑情偶寄》所講述的生活之道，在閑雅中追求品質，在智慧中追求進步，在生活中追求情調。

“儂嗯干切當些（你早飯吃什么）？”蘭溪人的問候，總離不開吃。

現在，到游埠喝早茶，是許多人熱衷的事。

枕水而眠的游埠鎮，有著悠久歷史的江南第一早茶街依然保持著它原本的模樣。老茶客們點一杯茶，聊著家長里短，隔壁還有幾個說著吳儂軟語的姑娘，她們從360公里外的上海趕來。或許很多人都沒想到，老一輩的生活習慣，竟成了古鎮旅游的特色。

近年來，蘭溪圍繞深厚的歷史文化底蘊，精品化開展文藝創作，品牌化提升節會能級、實體化打造文旅項目，全力推進優秀傳統文化的活化利用。

位于蘭溪市區蘭棉1957文創園的一面墻，它成為了眾多游客打卡拍照的網紅地。作為一個一直以來著力發展工業的城市，蘭溪現在對工業遺存進行了現代化改造，并產生“蝶變”效應。比如，蘭溪老蘭棉的廠區經過改造，搖身一變成為蘭棉1957文創園，是蘭溪首個“城市記憶+工業遺存”主題的文創街區，很多年輕人都喜歡去那里。蘭溪作為老工業基地，保存了許多上世紀八九十年代的城市面貌，吸引了不少劇組前來取景，如《銀河補習班》《親愛的，你在哪里》《中國起跑線》《喬家的兒女》等。

蘭溪日子，有戲有味。蘭溪是一座有味道的城市，如果說文化、名人、古建、古鎮等是其中的幾味，那么第一層味道來自蘭溪的美食。自古以來，來自五湖四海的商賈在此集散交易，不同的飲食文化在此交融、發展，加上蘭溪人對味道的包容，使得蘭溪在吸納來自五湖四海的風味后，逐漸發展出獨特的烹制手法。蘭溪，有牛肉面、雞子馃、咸湯圓等美食300多種，曾榮獲全省首家“浙江美食名城”“中國美食文化名城”等稱號。

今年6月，蘭溪市美食發展中心揭牌成立，這是目前浙江省為推廣地方美食設立的最高規格單位。而后，蘭溪美食十大工程、蘭溪牛肉面團體標準及配套政策、蘭溪美食樣板店示范標準等一系列舉措及政策發布，將以特色美食餐飲打開富民增收的新路子。

日升月落，人來人往，蘭溪人經歷過帆檣林立的往昔，又回歸于一蔬一食的質樸。蘭溪的過往，如空谷幽蘭，不掩芳華;蘭溪的未來，如江河奔涌，遠及四方。

Lanxi： Home to “Shakespeare of the East”

By? Tang? Xuyu

Located in the middle-western part of Zhejiang province， there is a small city called Lanxi. Honored by Emperor Huizong of the Song dynasty （860-1279） as “Tianxia Jiangnan” or Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） under the Heaven， it is known as “the first commercial port of Qiantang”， “the first county of the Republic of China” and “small Shanghai”. It is also the hometown of Li Yu （1611-1680）， the “Shakespeare of the East”.

Lanxi， which towers on the shore of Lanjiang River and enjoys a beautiful natural landscape， is a place of profound culture and thriving trade.

Since its establishment in the year 674，the city has witnessed an everlasting culture boom： Confucianism， landscape， food， Chinese medicine ... Nowadays， by tapping into the thousand-year history and rich cultural resources， Lanxi is enhancing its image， recognition and reputation centering on the culture of Li Yu and developing in a culturally motivated pattern.

In the old town of Lanxi， next to the decorated archway beside the East Gate is an easily neglected， nameless old bookstore. Several small wooden stools of different heights are placed at the entrance， invariably occupied. The owner， Pan Zhiping， was born in 1970. He is also a collector with a collection ranging from little comic books to Lanxis local literature.

It is said that if you want to find books related to local history and culture， then old Pan is your man. Naturally， his small store has become a gathering place for culture enthusiasts and researchers， who are mostly members from a private organization called Lanxi Literature and History Research Association， including Pan himself. Every year， the association publishes two issues of Lanxi Literature and History. No wonder people say that “Lanxis culture is worth digging”.

If you name the top ten well-preserved ancient cities in China， according to expert opinion， Lanxi can be counted as one; if you choose the top 100 well-preserved ancient towns， three in Lanxi can be shortlisted; if you choose the top 1，000 well-preserved ancient villages， Lanxi has at least ten of them. Now， Lanxi has one National Historical and Cultural District （Tianfu Mountain Community）， eight Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level， 37 Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the Provincial Level and more than 2，600 registration points for cultural relics. It is one of the areas where ancestral halls are distributed most densely nationwide， and has the largest number of ancient academies in Zhejiang.

Lanxi is also home to famous people in history and culture. According to some statistics， there are more than 400 poets who have visited Lanxi and generously praised the beautiful place with their poems.

Nowadays， everyone is talking about crossover — in fact， Li Yu has long been a crossover pioneer， for he held many “titles”： poet， novelist， playwright， theater theorist， publisher， gourmet， garden artist， social activist and so on. Today， over 400 years after his living age， Li Yu has clearly become the icon of Lanxi. Li Yu Road， Li Yu Drama， Li Yu Tea， Li Yu Home Brew ... traces of him are simply everywhere. Under his influence， the Lanxi folks are easy-going and laid-back， and they love enjoying their days in a leisure way， drinking tea and eating snacks while watching a play.

In recent years， Lanxi has taken “Li Yu culture” as the starting point， setting up Li Yu research associations， studying Li Yus thoughts and exploring relevant cultural resources in depth. A series of activities themed “Return to the Mustard Seed Garden” have been held， where domestic and foreign artists are invited to gather in Lanxi and exchange thoughts on traditional culture. Lanxi has also co-hosted Li Yu Drama Festival with the Chinese Theater Association， and launched activities including “Touring Lanxi with Wuju opera”， all of which have effectively enriched Li Yu culture， and promoted the creative inheritance of traditional culture such as Wuju opera.

Compared with the fast-paced urban life， the days in Lanxi are in slow motion， just like the way described by Li Yus Xianqing Ouji （Casual Expressions）， leisurely and elegantly pursuing a wise， exquisite life of quality.

Today， going to Yubu town for morning tea is a new passion for many people. The well-preserved old street even attracts the fashionable Shanghai girls to come here and have a nice cup of morning tea， just as the old generations did. Recently， Lanxi has made great effort to revitalize its traditional culture by focusing on its profound historical and cultural heritage， encouraging first-rate literary creation， and creating culture tourism projects.

As a city that has been focusing on industrial development， Lanxi is now modernizing its industrial relics. For example， an old cotton factory in Lanxi has been transformed into Lanxi Cotton 1957 Cultural and Creative Park， which is the first cultural and creative neighborhood of Lanxi with the theme of “urban memories and industrial relics”， loved and frequented by many young people.

The days in Lanxi are also full of flavors. Since ancient times， merchants from all over the world have gathered and traded here， and different food cultures have been thus developed. In Lanxi， you can find more than 300 kinds of snacks， such as beef noodles， egg-stuffed pastry and salty glutinous rice balls. It has won the title of “Zhejiangs Famous City of Food” and “Chinas Famous City of Food”， the first-ever in Zhejiang.

In June 2021， the Lanxi Food Development Center was inaugurated， which is an agency of the highest order set up to promote local cuisine in Zhejiang. Later， a series of initiatives and policies were released， such as the top ten projects of Lanxi cuisine， the group standard and supporting policies of Lanxi beef noodles， the demonstration standards of Lanxi model restaurants， etc.， which will become a new way to increase peoples income and improve their well-being as a whole.