用冰雪“冷資源”做活紡織“熱經濟”

Cold resources heating textile and apparel industry

—Interview with Sun Ruizhe， president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation and China National Textile and Apparel Council

2021年10月20日上午，隨著北京冬奧會第一支火炬點燃，冬奧會正式進入了北京時間。對于2022年冬奧會，政府提出了通過政府推動、政策拉動、規(guī)劃策動、宣傳鼓動等手段，最終實現(xiàn)帶動3億人參與冰雪運動的目標。

冰雪經濟產業(yè)鏈較長，涉及旅游、器械、餐飲以及紡織服裝等諸多領域。據估算，此次冬奧會所涉及的冰雪運動將帶動其他關聯(lián)產業(yè)收入達到3000億元以上。到2025年，中國冰雪產業(yè)總規(guī)模預計將達到1萬億元，如此巨大的市場空間，也為紡織服裝以及相關產業(yè)開啟了無限商機。在冰雪“冷資源”開始轉化為“熱經濟”的快車道上，紡織產業(yè)該如何順勢而為？還存在哪些不足，亟待完善？為了找到這些問題的答案，CHINA TEXTILE專程采訪了國際紡織制造商聯(lián)合會（以下簡稱國際紡聯(lián)）主席、中國紡織工業(yè)聯(lián)合會會長孫瑞哲。

On the morning of October 20， 2021， the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games officially entered Beijing time with the lighting of the first torch of the Games. For the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games， the government has proposed the goal of attracting 300 million people to participate in winter sports through government promotion， policy stimulus and planning.

Ice and snow economy has a long industrial chain， involving tourism， equipment， catering， textile and apparel and many other fields. It is estimated that the ice and snow sports involved in the Olympic Winter Games will drive the revenue of other related industries to reach more than 300 billion yuan. Chinas ice and snow industry is expected to reach 1 trillion yuan by 2025. The huge market space also opens infinite business opportunities for textile and apparel industry and related industries. How should the textile and apparel industry take advantage of the trend？ What are the deficiencies that need to be improved？ In order to find the answers to these questions， CHINA TEXTILE interviewed Sun Ruizhe， president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation （ITMF）， and the China National Textile and Apparel Council （CNTAC）.

冰雪運動帶來巨大機遇

China Textile： 2022年冬奧會即將來臨，國家也多次提出了“帶動三億人上冰雪”的愿景，您覺得這對紡織企業(yè)來說有哪些機遇和挑戰(zhàn)？

孫瑞哲：2022 冬奧會的申辦成功，點燃了國人對冰雪運動的消費熱潮。疊加國家 “帶動三億人上冰雪”政策紅利與持續(xù)的資本入局，我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)迎來巨大的發(fā)展機遇。主要體現(xiàn)在：

第一，規(guī)模發(fā)展的巨大機遇。《冰雪運動發(fā)展規(guī)劃（2016-2025年）》指出，到2020年我國冰雪產業(yè)總規(guī)模將達到6000億元，2025年我國冰雪產業(yè)總規(guī)模將達到10000億元。另據《中國冰雪旅游發(fā)展報告（2021）》顯示，預計2020-2021年冰雪季，中國冰雪休閑旅游人次將達2.3億人次，冰雪休閑旅游收入超過3900億元。文化和旅游部數(shù)據中心預測，2021-2022冰雪季中國冰雪旅游將帶動冰雪特色小鎮(zhèn)、冰雪文創(chuàng)、冰雪運動、冰雪制造、冰雪度假地產、冰雪會展等相關產業(yè)的產值達到2.92萬億元。可見，伴隨消費總量與消費人群的規(guī)模發(fā)展，冰雪產業(yè)總體將持續(xù)釋放規(guī)模效應，為我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)拓展消費市場，壯大消費品牌，應用消費場景，創(chuàng)造巨大的發(fā)展機遇與想象空間。第二，政策紅利的巨大機遇。近年來，我國相繼出臺《“帶動三億人參與冰雪運動”實施綱要（2018-2022年）》、冰雪旅游發(fā)展行動計劃（2021—2023年）、《冰雪運動發(fā)展規(guī)劃（2016-2025年）》、《關于以2022年北京冬奧會為契機大力發(fā)展冰雪運動的意見》等政策文件。政策紅利的密集釋放，將有效促進冰雪產業(yè)蓬勃發(fā)展，產業(yè)規(guī)模明顯擴大，結構不斷優(yōu)化，產業(yè)鏈日益完備。通過實施品牌戰(zhàn)略，將推動建立一批產業(yè)規(guī)模較大的冰雪產業(yè)集聚區(qū)，發(fā)展一批具有較高知名度和影響力、市場競爭力較強的冰雪產業(yè)企業(yè)，興建一批復合型冰雪旅游基地和冰雪運動中心。這些都將為我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)的做大做強，贏得堅實的政策保障。

第二，政策紅利的巨大機遇。近年來，我國相繼出臺《“帶動三億人參與冰雪運動”實施綱要（2018-2022年）》、冰雪旅游發(fā)展行動計劃（2021—2023年）、《冰雪運動發(fā)展規(guī)劃（2016-2025年）》、《關于以2022年北京冬奧會為契機大力發(fā)展冰雪運動的意見》等政策文件。政策紅利的密集釋放，將有效促進冰雪產業(yè)蓬勃發(fā)展，產業(yè)規(guī)模明顯擴大，結構不斷優(yōu)化，產業(yè)鏈日益完備。通過實施品牌戰(zhàn)略，將推動建立一批產業(yè)規(guī)模較大的冰雪產業(yè)集聚區(qū)，發(fā)展一批具有較高知名度和影響力、市場競爭力較強的冰雪產業(yè)企業(yè)，興建一批復合型冰雪旅游基地和冰雪運動中心。這些都將為我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)的做大做強，贏得堅實的政策保障。

第三，科技賦能的巨大機遇。一方面，人工智能、大數(shù)據、可穿戴設備等科技手段，已經成為輔助運動員在訓練中提高競技水平的“標配”。智能可穿戴設備，將有助于構建人體運動學及動力學參數(shù)測量及分析系統(tǒng)，用來檢索、收集、篩選、分析運動員的速度、心率、呼吸、發(fā)力方式等一系列以前難以量化的數(shù)據。另一方面，伴隨5G技術、人工智能、大數(shù)據、區(qū)塊鏈、云計算等新興數(shù)字產業(yè)與冰雪產業(yè)的結合，催生了“仿真冰雪”、“VR技術”、“智能化人機交互”等諸多冰雪運動新模式、新業(yè)態(tài)，“智慧冰雪產品”、“智慧冰雪服務”、“冰雪場館數(shù)字化運營”等冰雪產業(yè)智能化發(fā)展新趨勢，將有效突破國內目前冰雪運動只有冬季運營的限制，順應“北冰南展西擴東進”的體育發(fā)展態(tài)勢，降低冰雪運動門檻，真正實現(xiàn)冰雪運動的“四季常青”與“全域覆蓋”。綜合兩方面，不管是從智能可穿戴設備的技術革新，還是從冰雪產業(yè)運營模式的技術革新，都將為我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)拓寬多元消費場景，滿足新生代消費需求，提高品牌附加值提供巨大的發(fā)展機遇。

挑戰(zhàn)與機遇并存。我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)目前面臨的挑戰(zhàn)，主要體現(xiàn)在兩方面：

一方面，冰雪文化的普及度有待提升。相比于奧地利、日本等國家的冰雪運動趨勢，中國的冰雪運動不僅起步較晚，而且在大眾認知和體驗層面，也尚且屬于小眾圈層用戶的一項愛好。據中國旅游研究院《中國冰雪旅游消費大數(shù)據（2019）》報告顯示，奧地利滑雪人口占比36%、其中人均滑雪次數(shù)5.9次，日本滑雪人口占比9%、其中人均滑雪次數(shù)2.5次，而中國滑雪人口占比僅約1%，其中人均滑雪次數(shù)僅1.08次。另外，滑雪運動依然停留在“貴族”運動的定位。Mob研究院數(shù)據顯示，中國目前滑雪者主要為一二線城市的男性中高收入群體，人群年齡集中在25-34歲，月收入集中在一萬元以上。可見，我國冰雪文化仍處于發(fā)展期，除少數(shù)高收入階層外，大多數(shù)冰雪運動消費者類型為“一次體驗型消費者”，尚未形成主動化、常態(tài)化、生活方式化的文化自覺。未來，冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)要實現(xiàn)加速度發(fā)展，就需要更深層次、更廣范圍的冰雪消費文化普及。

另一方面，核心技術的掌控度有待提升。我國冰雪運動較國外剛起步，產業(yè)基礎較薄弱。冰雪運動服裝裝備產業(yè)，同樣遵循高成長性、高利潤空間、高品牌集中度以及高專業(yè)壁壘的發(fā)展特性。相較于國外品牌，圍繞“裝備、數(shù)據和體驗”的技術創(chuàng)新，產業(yè)對核心技術的掌控度不足，在研發(fā)投入、研發(fā)體量層面都有待提升。有報告顯示，從市場份額來看，國內冰雪運動服裝及器材產品市場劃分為：滑雪服占市場份額的50%、滑雪手套占75%、滑雪眼鏡占73%、滑雪帽占 25%。 由于缺乏技術競爭力，利潤率最高的“滑雪板”、“滑雪鞋”以及“滑雪手杖”市場幾乎大部分都被國外品牌占領。與此同時，具有傳感功能、反饋功能、響應功能、信息識別與積累、自診斷能力、自修復能力和自適應能力的智能調溫紡織材料、智能形狀記憶紡織材料、智能變色紡織材料以及電子信息智能紡織材料，在冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)中的實際推廣運用也有待普及、強化。

從另一個角度來看，2022北京冬奧會的舉辦，也為提升國內冰雪運動服裝裝備的技術創(chuàng)新能力，奠定了有力的應對契機。如，2019年，國家體育總局冬季運動管理中心與北京服裝學院共建“國家冬季運動服裝裝備研發(fā)中心”，目標為基于“人體 - 服裝 - 環(huán)境”系統(tǒng)，開發(fā)適用于冬季項目訓練與比賽的減阻、防護、熱濕舒適高性能服裝，致力于跨學科建成集冬季項目訓練與比賽服裝材料選型、功能設計、樣衣制作、工效分析于一體的國際先進產學研平臺。目前，北京服裝學院承接的國家重點研發(fā)計劃“科技冬奧”重點專項——“冬季運動與訓練比賽高性能服裝研發(fā)關鍵技術”項目冬奧備戰(zhàn)服裝在研發(fā)上，通過提升纖維保暖率與使用主動加熱技術，有效解決了“快、護、暖、美”四個關鍵技術問題。值得期待的是，該研發(fā)平臺的搭建，將有效解決核心技術研發(fā)的關鍵制約瓶頸，集成產學研資源，樹立創(chuàng)新典型示范。

China Textile： 據您了解，目前我國從事冰雪運動服裝裝備的企業(yè)在行業(yè)中有哪些？隨著冰上運動的推廣，您覺得未來冰雪運動產品的市場將會如何？

孫瑞哲：總體來看，我國冰雪市場目前處于起步階段，存在滲透率不足，產業(yè)鏈亟待完善的諸多挑戰(zhàn)。與此同時，如前所述，我國冰雪運動服裝裝備企業(yè)，面臨巨大的規(guī)模發(fā)展機遇、政策紅利機遇以及科技賦能機遇，存在很大的增量空間，是全球范圍內滑雪產業(yè)的主要市場之一。未來我國冰雪運動服裝裝備市場，有三個趨勢值得關注。

一是多元化品牌格局逐步形成。目前國內冰雪運動服裝裝備生產產品線主要集中在滑雪領域，從事冰雪運動服裝裝備的企業(yè)大概分為三類：一是長期深耕在冰雪裝備細分領域的小眾品牌，如北京的奔流、冷山、杭州的體拓等；二是布局冰雪服裝裝備產業(yè)的大眾品牌，如由單一品類向滑雪服等多種戶外產品拓展的探路者、駱駝等，以合資方式入局滑雪市場的安踏、波司登、361°等；三是隨著國內市場的發(fā)展，借助運動社群以及電商渠道快速成長的黑馬品牌，如零夏、VECTOR、有司、Snowline等。多元化品牌格局的逐步形成，將有效滿足冰雪產品與服務供給的個性化、差異化與品質化消費需求。

二是國產自主品牌異軍突起。隨著我國冰雪運動競技力的全面躍升，冰雪市場規(guī)模的不斷突破，以及冰雪文化的逐步普及，國產品牌在專業(yè)競技運動領域與大眾休閑消費領域都在不斷崛起，頭部品牌有望壯大，逐步形成技術驅動、結構更優(yōu)、產業(yè)鏈更完整、品牌影響力更強的發(fā)展格局，市場規(guī)模增長與產業(yè)高質量發(fā)展齊頭并進。

據CBNData聯(lián)合天貓體育發(fā)布的《2020冬季新活力生活趨勢報告》顯示，南恩、VECTOR、Nobaday等國產新銳服裝品牌，集體進入“十大Z時代喜愛冰雪品牌榜單”，在2020年12月滑雪裝備的銷量同比上漲13倍；另據天眼查數(shù)據顯示，從2015年開始，經營范圍含“滑雪”的企業(yè)注冊數(shù)量明顯增加，2019年注冊數(shù)量超1000家，目前整體超過6400家。作為小眾市場的滑雪裝備，相關企業(yè)也超40家。

三是產業(yè)鏈上下游的研發(fā)協(xié)同加速凝聚。包括新型纖維材料、新型非織造材料、智能紡織材料以及生態(tài)染整材料在內的紡織新材料創(chuàng)新，是冰雪運動服裝裝備產業(yè)高質量發(fā)展的關鍵環(huán)節(jié)。當前功能性纖維材料開發(fā)與品質提升，生物基化學纖維的產業(yè)化，以及高性能纖維的產業(yè)化，都將為未來冰雪運動服裝裝備行業(yè)的高質量發(fā)展提供有力的發(fā)展契機。以“冬奧經濟”為例，紡織服裝產業(yè)鏈的上游面料企業(yè)，通過新材料、新工藝與新設計的研發(fā)協(xié)同，為下游品牌企業(yè)的產品品質創(chuàng)新與功能優(yōu)化提供強有力的支撐。

如，上海嘉麟杰紡織品股份有限公司與北京冬奧組委官方合作伙伴安踏公司簽訂供貨協(xié)議，做強超暖抓絨產品，滿足冬奧會各種工作場景的需求；同樣作為冬奧會制服面料供應商的紹興乾雍紡織有限公司，憑借獨特的尼龍印花技術和工藝，為還原設計上獨特的顏色，定向開發(fā)納米墨水，為時尚審美提供堅實的技術支撐；江蘇三豐特種材料科技有限公司根據市場需求，開發(fā)肽肌泡（NuSkin）合成面料，對環(huán)境友好，適合在沖鋒衣和羽絨服上應用；蘇州市興豐強紡織科技有限公司主打的零下無絨系列產品，減少制造羽絨所產生的廢氣廢水的排放，更加節(jié)能減碳。可以預見，產業(yè)鏈上下游加速凝聚研發(fā)協(xié)同的效應，將有助于中國冰雪運動服裝裝備產業(yè)構筑更專業(yè)高效、難以被顛覆的技術壁壘，有效參與全球市場競爭。

自主品牌需要實現(xiàn)“三個強化”

China Textile：您覺得我國的冰雪運動品牌與世界頂尖戶外專業(yè)運動品牌相比，還有哪些差距？需要著重在哪些方面進一步提升？

孫瑞哲：從滑雪運動看，奧地利、德國等國家進入滑雪裝備市場早，擁有品牌效應、技術創(chuàng)新等優(yōu)勢。相比之下，我國滑雪運動裝備制造企業(yè)多以貼牌代工、代理為主，缺乏知名品牌和核心技術，造成自主品牌競爭力不足。為此，需要實現(xiàn)“三個強化”。

一是強化科技研發(fā)，打造“技術品牌”。今年1月，習近平總書記在北京考察冬奧會、冬殘奧會籌辦工作來到首都體育館調研時強調，要利用科學技術手段推動訓練備戰(zhàn)水平。在新技術革命與產業(yè)變遷中，我國冰雪運動品牌要從創(chuàng)新產業(yè)鏈最前端做起，在保證冰雪產業(yè)及相關產業(yè)價值創(chuàng)造力平穩(wěn)增長的基礎上，加大對冰雪產業(yè)核心層的持續(xù)性投入與鉆深式研究，即強化上游科技與材料端的務實研發(fā)和資源整合，積極擁抱新材料、新技術、新服務、新資本，實現(xiàn)從技術引進到自主研發(fā)，不斷創(chuàng)造人民觸碰“冰雪奇緣”的更多可能。

比如，北服團隊作為牽頭單位，聯(lián)合6所高校、4個企業(yè)聯(lián)合攻關，解決“快、護、暖、美”四個關鍵技術問題，實現(xiàn)競速類項目服裝、防護材料及裝備、耐低溫保障材料和服裝、技巧類項目服裝四類產品創(chuàng)新；安踏集團在日本東京設立冬季運動專業(yè)裝備設計中心日本辦事處，通過調動世界頂級設計力量強化研發(fā)團隊，研發(fā)具備最新科技含量的專業(yè)冰雪運動服裝。

二是強化設計賦能，打造“時尚品牌”。通過深度挖掘消費升級下的冰雪產品需求，以我國冰雪文化為精神內涵，勇于向內探索，敢于向外破圈，善于將“冷資源”變成“熱產業(yè)”，帶動我國冰雪產業(yè)未來發(fā)展的產業(yè)特色流線，加快提升中國冰雪服裝裝備產品的設計造物力、潮流影響力、生活方式根植力和多元市場延展力。

比如，國外品牌之間的跨界藝術聯(lián)名，面向全球潮流消費者，強調設計賦能，成為打造滑雪運動“符號品牌”的重要途徑。如，Dior和滑雪裝備品牌AK Skis聯(lián)名，著名滑雪裝備品牌Burton與全球最具知名度的街頭涂鴉藝術家Keith Haring，聯(lián)合推出滑雪板、插肩長袖T恤和連帽滑雪外套在內的聯(lián)名膠囊系列；優(yōu)衣庫與單板滑雪運動員平野步夢聯(lián)名推出滑雪服系列。

三是強化文化輸出，打造“符號品牌”。立足國際國內雙循環(huán)的發(fā)展格局，應抓住2022年北京承辦冬奧會的大好發(fā)展機遇，以提升我國冰雪文化產業(yè)價值與影響為己任，多維度開展中國冰雪運動服裝裝備品牌的文化營銷和意義傳播，積極表達品牌態(tài)度和價值主張，把握產業(yè)“走出去”的良好時機，向世界講好中國冰雪故事，打造具有全球文化標桿意義的“符號品牌”，提升中國自主品牌在全球市場的綜合競爭力與時尚話語權。

比如，中國新生代滑雪品牌Nobaday，在不到六年的時間里，做到與Stüssy、BAPE等品牌在美國洛杉磯的潮流街區(qū)Fairfax比肩，成功簽約Max Parrot、Team Riders、Regional Riders等百位世界優(yōu)秀滑雪運動員，并將在2022年北京冬奧會亮相，助力中國、日本、挪威、芬蘭等國選手取得佳績。

世界正在發(fā)生三大變化

China Textile：您如何看待當前全球紡織的發(fā)展現(xiàn)狀和特點？

孫瑞哲：當前，立足百年未有之大變局，全球紡織工業(yè)的科技革命和產業(yè)革命全面交融，世界發(fā)展新舊動能加速轉換，由深度衰退轉向經濟復蘇，加速的數(shù)字化轉型，以及轉向低碳和與自然相協(xié)調的經濟增長成為正在發(fā)生的三大變化。一方面，歐美等發(fā)達國家和地區(qū)依托消費市場、高新科技研發(fā)和先進制造優(yōu)勢，正在大力推動制造業(yè)復興，通過提出和實施強化高端紡織的創(chuàng)新戰(zhàn)略性計劃，重新謀求未來紡織工業(yè)制高點；另一方面，越南、孟加拉國、印度尼西亞、柬埔寨等新興經濟體積極承接紡織產業(yè)國際產能與訂單轉移，在世界紡織品服裝出口中的份額迅速提升，客觀上也會對中國紡織工業(yè)在重構產業(yè)發(fā)展優(yōu)勢，調整產業(yè)結構與區(qū)域布局，完善產業(yè)創(chuàng)新生態(tài)，以及推動產業(yè)綠色發(fā)展，提出更大挑戰(zhàn)與更高要求。

總體來看，全球紡織經濟的發(fā)展，呈現(xiàn)出三個重要特征：產業(yè)鏈的深度調整。全球產業(yè)發(fā)展的比較優(yōu)勢與要素價值正在發(fā)生改變。發(fā)達經濟體制造業(yè)回流與新興市場國家崛起交匯，國際分工格局深刻調整，行業(yè)產業(yè)鏈供應鏈面臨激烈競爭與加快轉移的現(xiàn)實壓力。在大國博弈背景下，知識、技術、人才等創(chuàng)新要素的外循環(huán)阻力加大，注重自主創(chuàng)新成為提升行業(yè)在全球價值鏈上位勢的必要選擇。

數(shù)字經濟的全面驅動。人工智能、區(qū)塊鏈、大數(shù)據等通用基礎技術的發(fā)展與滲透，正在深刻改變全球紡織行業(yè)的創(chuàng)新和發(fā)展范式。數(shù)據驅動產業(yè)的裝備與工具更新、組織與模式再造，智能制造與智慧營銷的發(fā)展，使得產業(yè)鏈上下游的協(xié)同性與耦合性得到提升，供給需求及時匹配，生產要素實現(xiàn)了優(yōu)化配置與高效循環(huán)。新技術革命下，產業(yè)正呈現(xiàn)更大范圍的要素整合與業(yè)態(tài)疊加，互聯(lián)、泛在、延展成為重要趨勢。虛擬技術驅動從“在線”到“在場”，沉浸式體驗新空間和新消費場景持續(xù)創(chuàng)新。

綠色發(fā)展的戰(zhàn)略選擇。社會公平公正、經濟協(xié)調平衡、生態(tài)自然和諧成為全球紡織經濟的共同價值追求。以實現(xiàn)碳達峰、碳中和為目標，推動社會、經濟、生態(tài)的可持續(xù)與平衡發(fā)展已成為世界各國的戰(zhàn)略選擇。以綠色設計、綠色生產、綠色營銷、綠色消費、綠色金融為表征的產業(yè)生態(tài)正在形成，“綠色市場”和責任市場的價值空間正在打開。從要素配置、產品供給到市場規(guī)則、路徑模式，全球紡織經濟都在面臨系統(tǒng)性的改變。行業(yè)開始進入出清和調整高能耗、高污染產能的結構調整期。面對日益剛性的環(huán)境要求，以可持續(xù)發(fā)展為重點，行業(yè)科技創(chuàng)新更加注重綠色低碳，提升效率、降低排放，推動產品全生命周期的綠色變革。

China Textile：目前中國紡織工業(yè)的現(xiàn)狀如何，在全球紡織行業(yè)中發(fā)揮著怎樣的作用？

孫瑞哲：經歷了幾十年的快速發(fā)展之后，中國紡織工業(yè)已經成為世界紡織品服裝的最大生產國、出口國和消費國。作為世界最大的紡織經濟體，一方面，中國紡織工業(yè)的體系優(yōu)勢和規(guī)模優(yōu)勢不斷強化，形成了全球規(guī)模最大、最完備的產業(yè)體系，生產制造能力與國際貿易規(guī)模長期居于世界首位；另一方面，紡織行業(yè)發(fā)展質量和發(fā)展效率不斷提升，產業(yè)結構全面優(yōu)化升級，在全球價值鏈中的地位也穩(wěn)步提升，如李寧、安踏、波司登等長青品牌，不斷實現(xiàn)煥新再造，在科技創(chuàng)新、品牌建設、綠色發(fā)展等方面取得積極進展，有望成為具有全球影響力的知名國際品牌。

從中國紡織工業(yè)的發(fā)展現(xiàn)狀來看，盡管有全球新冠疫情沖擊、原料價格波動、貨運價格高漲、部分地區(qū)限電限產等因素影響，行業(yè)依然表現(xiàn)出強大的韌性與活力，構建新發(fā)展格局邁出新步伐，高質量發(fā)展取得新成效。行業(yè)在穩(wěn)定經濟增長、拉動內需增長、保持全球產業(yè)鏈供應鏈通暢、以及創(chuàng)造人民美好生活等領域，做出了巨大的貢獻。

尤其是在保持全球產業(yè)鏈供應鏈通暢方面，2021年1～11月我國紡織品服裝出口總額為2852.8億美元，同比增長7.7%，近兩年年均增速為7.6%，已超過疫情前水平。在海外訂單回流等因素支撐下，服裝出口實現(xiàn)平穩(wěn)增長。1～11月出口額為1543.5億美元，同比增長25.1%，為2014年以來的最好增長水平。外貿結構更加多元，新興經濟體對我國紡織行業(yè)出口增長起到積極支撐作用，1～10月對越南、印度出口紡織原料及制品的金額同比分別增長23.3%和72.2%。

總體來看，2020年末我國全面建成小康社會之際，紡織行業(yè)基本實現(xiàn)《2020建設紡織強國綱要》相關目標，絕大部分指標已達到甚至領先于世界先進水平，建立起全世界最為完備的現(xiàn)代紡織制造產業(yè)體系，生產制造能力與國際貿易規(guī)模長期居于世界首位，成為我國制造業(yè)進入強國陣列的第一梯隊。

未來，中國紡織工業(yè)將繼續(xù)秉承復興逐夢的產業(yè)理想、恢弘蹈麗的產業(yè)形象、同力協(xié)契的產業(yè)格局、追尋敢超的產業(yè)性格，加速實現(xiàn)外延式擴張到內涵式發(fā)展，推動新型世界紡織工業(yè)命運共同體的構建，力爭到2035年我國基本實現(xiàn)社會主義現(xiàn)代化國家時，成為世界紡織科技的主要驅動者、全球時尚的重要引領者、可持續(xù)發(fā)展的有力推進者。

China Textile： 您對2022年的冬奧會有哪些祝愿？新年將近，作為國際紡聯(lián)主席，您對全球紡織人的新年寄語是？

孫瑞哲：冬奧運是展現(xiàn)人類追求夢與雪、力與美、技與藝、善與志的最生動實踐。從“更快、更高、更強”到“更快、更高、更強、更團結”，奧林匹克精神，以更適應時代的聲音，擊穿時空，成為構建人類命運共同體的強大力量。

2022年，以“純潔的冰雪，激情的約會”為美好愿景，冬奧會即將在北京拉開大幕，圣潔的奧林匹克精神與古老的中華大地將再次交織。我相信，在偉大的奧林匹克精神映照下，作為滿足人民對美好生活新期待的有力締造者，作為攜手應對全球不確定性挑戰(zhàn)的有為先鋒者，中國紡織工業(yè)，必將迎來一個新的理想境界，奏響一段新的發(fā)展篇章，構建一段新的時尚文明。

寅虎新年，紡織可期。值冬奧會即將來臨之際，新的一年，中國紡織人，將持一顆潔白無暇的冰雪初心，秉承堅定的理想信念，以不變應萬變，以熱愛抵萬難，為世界人民織造美麗的中國衣裳。

誠摯祝愿各位紡織同仁，各自閃耀，彼此照耀，共創(chuàng)榮耀！

Winter sports bring great opportunities

China Textile： The Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games is coming， the government has clearly set the goal of "driving 300 million people into winter sports". What do you think of the opportunities and challenges for textile enterprises？

Sun Ruizhe： Chinas successful bid to host the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games has ignited the consumption enthusiasm of Chinese people for winter sports. Together with the national policy of “300 Million People Participate in Winter Sports” and continuous capital input， it offers great opportunities for Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises.

Firstly， we see great opportunities from the growth of industrial size. According to the Winter Sports Development Plan（2016-2025）， the overall size of Chinas icesnow industry will reach 600 billion yuan by 2020 and 1000 billion yuan by 2025. Also， the report of Chinas Ice-Snow Tourism Development Report （2021） shows that in the winter season of 2020-2021 the number of Chinese tourists will be 230 million， generating revenue of more than 390 billion yuan. The data center of Chinas Ministry of Culture and Tourism forecasts that in the winter season of 2021-2022 Chinese tourism will bring a total output value of 2.92 trillion yuan for industries related to signature towns， cultural creativity， winter sports， manufacturing， resort real estate and exhibitions. It is clear that the continuous size effect stimulated by growth of consumer groups and total consumption will create huge opportunities and plenty of room for imagination for Chinese producers in marketing， branding， consumption scenarios， etc.

Secondly， we see great opportunities from “dividend of policies”. For the past few years， the government has issued a series of policies such as the Winter for “300 Million People Participate in Winter Sports”（2018-2022）， Action Plan on Development of Ice-Snow Tourism （2016-2023）， Winter Sports Development Plan （2016-2025）， and the Opinions on Taking the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games as an Opportunity to Vigorously Develop Winter Sports. The dividend of these policies will effectively promote the development of ice-snow industry in its size， structure and industrial chain. With the implementation of brand strategy， a number of ice-snow industry clusters will be set up to develop enterprises with high visibility and influence and strong market competitiveness， and compound ice-snow tourism bases and sports centers will be built. These will provide solid support for Chinese enterprises to get bigger and stronger.

Thirdly， we see great opportunities empowered by science and technology. On one hand， AI， big data， wearable devices…h(huán)ave become a standard feature for athletesgood performance in training. The intelligent wearable devices can help to measure kinematical parameters of human body so as to retrieve， collect， select and analyze the data of an athletes speed， heart rate， breath， generation of strength…which was difficult to quantify. On the other hand， new winter sports models and forms such as “simulated ice and snow”， “VR technology” and “manmachine interaction” have emerged with the application of digital technologies in ice-snow industry such as 5G technology， AI， big data， block chain， cloud computing， etc. Intelligent products and services and digital operation of ice-snow stadiums are making it possible to break the limit of winter sports only in winter， to promote winter sports from north to south， west and east， to lower the threshold of winter sports and to do winter sports all the year in all regions. In a word， technological innovation on both intelligent devices and operation pattern will bring great opportunities for Chinese enterprises to diversify consumption scenarios， meet demand of new generations and increase value-added of the brands.

Challenges and opportunities coexist. Challenges for Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises are mainly in two aspects.

In one aspect， we need to further enhance the popularity of ice-snow culture. Compared with the winter sports in countries like Austria and Japan， winter sports in China not only starts late but also is favored by only a minority. The 2019 Big Data on Chinese IceSnow Tourism Consumption issued by China Tourism Academy reveals that in Austria the skiing population accounts for 36% and per capita skiing 5.9 times. In Japan， it is 9% and 2.5 times. In China， however， it is only 1% and 1.08 times. Moreover， skiing in China is still considered as a sport for elites. According to the MobTech data， Chinese skiers are mainly 25～34 years old males with middle-high income （more than 10 thousand yuan a month） in first-tier and second-tier cities. Therefore， ice-snow culture in China is still in development stage. In addition to high income group， most winter sports consumers are just onetime experience consumers without a real cultural awareness. In future， we need deeper and wider popularity of ice-snow culture for rapid development of Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises.

In another aspect， we need to further increase mastery of core technologies. As I just said that winter sports in China starts late and the industrial foundation is weak. The winter sports clothing and equipment sector follows the development features namely high growth， high profit， high sales proportion of top brands and high barriers. Compared with foreign brands， domestic brands have further to go in terms of technological innovation， mastery of core technology and R&D input. A report indicates the market shares of domestic winter sports products are skiwear 50%， ski gloves 75%， ski glasses 73% and ski caps 25%. Due to a lack of technological competitiveness， the market shares of high-margin products such as skis， ski boots and ski sticks are almost taken by foreign brands. Meanwhile， we need more application of smart textile materials with functions like thermo control， shape memory， color shifting， information decoding and accumulation， etc.

Also， the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games is definitely a good opportunity to speed up technical innovation. In 2019， National Winter Sports Administration Center worked with Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology （BIFT） to build a national winter sports clothing and equipment research center， with the goal of developing high performance clothing for winter sports training and games based on a “human body – clothing – environment” system. The center aims to become a world class industry-universityresearch platform for winter sports clothing from material selection， function design， sampling to efficiency analysis. Currently， BIFT is working on a national key project to prepare for the Olympic Winter Games. The project focuses on key technologies in R&D of high-performance clothing for winter sports training and games. By improving thermal performance of fibers and using an active heating technology， four technical challenges “speed， protection， warmth and beauty” have been overcome. The platform will help to break the bottleneck in R&D of core technologies and set a good example of innovation.

China Textile： As far as you know， what is the proportion of textile enterprises engaged in sportswear and equipment specialized in ice sports？ With the promotion of ice sports， what do you think of the future market of this kind of products？

Sun Ruizhe： Chinese market for ice-snow industry is still in its early stage， with challenges such as insufficient market penetration and incomplete industrial chain to be addressed. Also， Chinese winter sports clothing and equipment enterprises have great growth potential given the opportunities mentioned previ- ously – the growth of industrial size， dividend of policies， and science & technology empowerment. China will be one of the world major markets for skiing industry. There are three noteworthy market trends in the future.

Firstly， a diversified brand pattern will be gradually built up. At present， domestic production lines are mainly for skiing products. Enterprises of winter sports clothing and equipment can be divided into three types. Type One are niche brands long rooted in market segments， for example， companies like Running River， Cold Mountain in Beijing and like TITTALLON in Hangzhou. Type Two are mass-market brands such as TOREAD and Camel shifting from single category products to various outdoor products， and new comers like ANTA， Bosideng and 361° through joint-venture business model. Type Three are dark horse brands X-SUMMER， VECTOR， Uhznus， Snowline…which are developing rapidly through sports groups on social media as well as e-commerce platforms. A diversified brand pattern will effectively meet the consumer demand for individuality， differentiation and high-quality.

Secondly， more domestic original brands will emerge. With the overall improvement of Chinas winter sports competitiveness， the increasing market size for winter sports products and the popularity of ice-snow culture， domestic brands are emerging not only in professional sports competition but also in mass leisure consumption. Top brands are expected to get bigger and stronger. We will see a development pattern featuring high tech， optimized structure， complete industrial chain and influential brands. In other words， the high-quality industrial development will go hand in hand with the increase of market size.

In the 2020 New Vigorous Winter Life Report issued by CBNData and Tmall Sports， domestic newly-emerged brands such as NANDN， VECTOR and Nobaday are all on the list of “Top 10 favorite ice-snow brands in Generation Z”. In Dec. 2020， the sales of ski equipment were 13 times of that in the same period last year. According to TianYanCha data， the number of registered enterprises doing skiing related business is increasing significantly from 2015. In 2019 the number is over 1，000. Now it is over 6，400. Also， there are more than 40 companies doing ski equipment business serving a niche market.

Thirdly， we will see more coordinated R&D in both the industrial chain upstream and downstream. New textile materials including new fibers， new nonwoven materials， smart materials and eco-friendly finishing materials are the key to high-quality development of winter sports clothing and equipment sector. From the functional， bio-chemical and high-performance fibers come the opportunities for high-quality development. Taking Winter Olympics economy as an example， the R&D of new materials， new process and new design of the upstream fabrics enterprises will provide strong support to the high-quality functional products of downstream brands.

There are some good examples - Shanghai Challenge Textile Company has signed a contract with ANTA， the cooperation partner of Beijing Winter Olympics Organizing Committee， supplying super warm fleece fabrics for all kinds of Winter Olympics work scenes. Shaoxing Qian Yong Textiles Company， a uniform fabrics supplier for Winter Olympics， offers strong technical support with its unique nylon printing technology and process to restore unique colors in designs. The NuSkin synthetic fabrics of Jiangsu Sunfeng Fabrics Technology Company are ecofriendly and suitable for jackets and down coats. The Zero-Down Collection of Suzhou Xing-TEX Company can save more energy and reduce carbon dioxide emission by cutting waste discharge in the process of producing down. It can be predicted that coordinated R&D in the industrial chain upstream and downstream will provide more professional and stronger technical support for our industry to effectively participation in global market competition.

Independent brand needs to realize "three enhancements"

China Textile： Compare with worlds top outdoor professional sports brands， what should domestic brands focus on for further improvement？

Sun Ruizhe： Countries like Austria and Germany have the advantages in branding and technical innovation. By contrast， Chinese producers of ski products， weak in branding and core technology， are mainly doing OEM or acting as dealers. Therefore， we need to strengthen three aspects.

Firstly， we need to strengthen technical R&D to build“technology brands”. President Xi Jinping stressed during his inspection visit to Capital Stadium that science and technology should play an active role in higher training level for Olympic games. In the new round of technological revolution and industrial evolution， Chinese winter sports brands need to start from the beginning of the industrial chain making continuous input on in-depth core technology R&D. From technology import to self-independent R&D， new materials， technologies， services and investment will help to attract more and more people into winter sports.

For example， the BIFT works together with 6 universities and 4 companies to develop four key technologies for “speed， protection， warmth and beauty”， making innovative breakthrough on winter sports clothing for racing， protection， low-temperature resistance and sports acrobatics. ANTA Group has set up a center in Tokyo， Japan， developing high-tech winter sports clothing and equipment by a world top designing team.

Secondly， we need to strengthen design capability to build “fashion brands”. Through in-depth study on new product requirements in the upgrading of consumption， we need to take root in Chinese ice-snow culture and make both inward and outward exploration to turn “cold”resources into a “hot” industry. Only in this way can we enhance the design capability， brand influence， lifestyle originality and diversified markets for domestic winter sports products.

The crossover cooperation of top brands is an important way to build “symbolic brands” for stylish consumers worldwide. For example， the cooperation of Dior and AK Skis， Burton and Keith Haring （the worlds most popular street graffiti artist） brings us jointly-designed products such as skis， raglan sleeves T-shirts and hooded ski jackets. Also， we have the Uniqlo x Ayumu Hirano ski wear series.

For example， the domestic youth-oriented brand Nobaday has become as popular as brands Stüssy and BAPE in Fairfax， a fashion zone in Los Angeles of America in less than six years. It has also signed 100 world top skiers including Max Parrot， Team Riders and Regional Riders. We will see the brand in the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games with its products for athletes from China， Japan， Norway， Finland， etc.

Three changes are taking place in the world

China Textile： What do you think of the current development status of global industry？

Sun Ruizhe： The world is undergoing changes unseen in a century. It has a profound impact on the global textile and apparel industries in three aspects - science and technology revolution fully fused with industrial revolution， accelerated digital transformation， and low-carbon growth in harmony with nature. In developed countries and regions， manufacturing industries are coming back with the implementation of innovation strategy to reshape competitive advantages based on high and new technologies. In emerging economies like Vietnam， Bangladesh， Indonesia and Cambodia， we see an inflow of international capacity and orders as well as rapid growth of textile and garment exports to the world. These will present bigger challenges and higher requirements to Chinas textile and apparel industry in reconstructing advantages， adjusting industrial structure and regional layout， improving industrial ecosystem and promoting green development.

The development of global textile economy shows three important characteristics.

Deep adjustment of industrial chains. The comparative advantages and factor values of global industries are changing. With the returning of manufacturing industries in developed economies， rising of emerging markets， profound changes in international division of labor， we see fiercer competition and the urgency of transformation in industrial chains. In a context of superpower games， the external circulation of knowledge， technology and talents is encountering more resistance， and selfindependent innovation becomes a must to secure a place in global value chains.

Driving force of digital economy. The development and application of technologies such as AI， block chain and big data are reforming the innovation and development patterns of world textile industries. Digitalization is driving the upgrading of equipment and tools and fostering new organization structure and operation models. Intelligent manufacturing and marketing are promoting higher coordination and coupling of industrial chain upstream and downstream， which ensures timely supply-demand matching and optimized allocation and efficient circulation of production factors. Interconnection， coexistence and extension are becoming an important trend. VR technology brings new consumption scenarios from online to on the scene.

Strategic choice of green development. Social equity and justice， balanced and coordinated economic growth， harmonious coexistence of human and nature are the common values pursued by global textile industries. It has become a strategic choice for every country to achieve the goal of carbon emission peak and carbon neutrality. An industrial ecosystem featuring green production， green marketing， green consumption and green financing is taking shape. The value space of green and responsible markets is opening. Systemic changes are taking place covering allocation of factors， product supply， market rules， path mode， etc. The industry is in a period of phasing out high pollution and high energy-consumption capacity. With sustainability as a key task， technical innovation will focus on low carbon emission， high efficiency， low discharge and a full life cycle of products.

China Textile： What is the status quo of Chinas textile industry？ What role does it play in the global textile industry？

Sun Ruizhe： After decades of high-speed development， China has become the worlds largest textile and garment producer， exporter and consumer. As the worlds biggest textile economy， the advantages of Chinas textile and apparel industry in system and size continue to be strengthened. We have the worlds largest and most complete industrial system with manufacturing capacity and international trade volume long ranking first in the world. Meanwhile， the quality and efficiency of industrial development improve continuously. Significant progress has been made in structural adjustment， and the industrial position in global value chains rises steadily. The evergreen brands such as Li-Ning， ANTA and Bosideng， with a sustained effort in tech innovation， branding and green development， are expected to become world famous brands.

In spite of the pandemic hit， ups and downs of raw material prices， high cost of shipment， power and production restriction in some regions， Chinas textile and apparel industry still shows great resilience and vitality in building a new development pattern and pursuing high-quality development. The industry has made great contributions in stabilizing economic growth， stimulating domestic demand， keeping global industrial and supply chains stable and creating better life for people.

This year， from Jan. to Nov.， Chinas total export of textiles and garments was 285.26 billion USD， a year-on-year increase of 7.7% and a two-year annual growth rate of 7.6%， which is above the pre-pandemic level. Garment export witnessed a stable growth given the backflow of overseas orders. From Jan. to Nov.， garment export was 154.35 billion USD， up 25.1% year on year， the best record since 2014. Diversification of foreign trade structure and emerging economies play an active role in the growing export of Chinas textile and apparel products. From Jan. to Oct.， the export value of Chinas textile raw materials and products to Vietnam and India increased 23.3% and 72.2% respectively.

When China achieved its first centenary goal of building a moderately prosperous society in all respects by 2020， Chinas textile and apparel industry basically achieved the goals in its 2020 development plan. A complete modern textile manufacturing system has been established， with manufacturing capacity and international trade volume long ranking first in the world.

In future， we will stay committed to the industrial mission –making continuous contributions to national rejuvenation. promoting the shift from extensive to intensive development， and fostering the building of a world textile community with a shared future. We will try to make Chinas textile and apparel industry a key driver for science and technology innovation， an important leader in world fashion and a firm promoter of sustainability by 2025.

China Textile： Do you have any wishes to the Olympic Winter Games？ Also do you have any words to global textile practitioners for the coming new year？

Sun Ruizhe： The Olympic Winter Games displays the most vivid practice of humanity in chasing dreams and snow， strength and beauty， skills and arts， kindness and ambition. The Olympic spirit from “faster， higher and stronger” to “faster， higher， stronger and closer” echoes the call of the times. It breaks the time and space boundaries， and becomes a strong power for building a human community with a shared future.

With a good vision of “joyful rendezvous upon pure ice and snow”， we will welcome theBeijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games soon . The holy Olympic spirit will once again come to the Chinese land. I believe， in the glory of great Olympic spirit， Chinas textile & apparel industry， as a creator of better life for people and a frontrunner in joint work to meet challenges， will surely reach a new level， open a new development chapter and build a new fashion culture.

In the new year of Tiger， we will see new hope for textile & apparel industry. On the occasion of the Olympic Winter Games， Chinese textile practitioners with an original aspiration as pure as ice and snow and firm faith， will march in confident strides toward the goal of weaving beautiful Chinese clothes for people worldwide.

My best wishes to all of you – may we enjoy personal success， mutual support and win-win achievement in the new coming year！