奧運服裝設計師劉莉：我唯一知道的就是，我什么都不知道

希望我們的奧運健兒穿著我們自主研發設計的服裝，帶著我們的滿滿祝福，馳騁賽場，勇于奪冠！

I hope our self-designed clothes give Chinese Olympic athletes the courage and wish all the athletes the best of luck in their competitions！

劉莉，體育總局備戰2022年北京冬奧會冰雪科學家，國家冬季運動服裝裝備研發中心主任，北京服裝學院教授，天津工業大學顧問教授、兼職博士生導師，香港理工大學訪問學者，康奈爾大學訪問學者……，這一串頭銜還不足以盡述其在服裝設計領域的地位。

北京冬奧會倒計時一個多月的時候，劉莉作為科研人員代表再次接受了習近平總書記的檢閱，習總書記勉勵備戰運動員，“人生能有幾回搏，拼搏是值得的，不經一番寒徹骨，怎得梅花撲鼻香”。劉莉把總書記的叮嚀作為了對自己的勉勵。在距冬奧會倒計時22天的一個冬天的下午，CHINA TEXTILE記者終于見到了風塵仆仆、剛出差回來的劉莉教授。

助力冬奧，快馬加鞭

2018年平昌冬奧會一結束，北京冬奧周期便正式來臨了。科技部為了冬奧會辦賽、參賽、觀賽等一系列工作特意設立了科技冬奧專項，并從2018年開始啟動。2019年由10個單位共同來承擔的“冬季運動與訓練比賽高性能服裝研發關鍵技術”項目獲得批準，這個項目主要為了服務國家隊運動員，是“科技冬奧”項目中唯一服裝專項。北京服裝學院作為牽頭單位，整個項目組包含6所高校院所和4個企業，贊助商安踏（中國）有限公司也是其中成員之一。

劉莉本碩畢業于天津工業大學，博士求學于東華大學，三段經歷讓她成為了一個有工程師思維的服裝設計師，而這些正符合冬奧科創項目的要求。在接觸冬奧比賽服項目之前，劉莉一直從事功能服裝、高性能服裝研發工作，研究如何將“人體科學”與“時尚設計”結合起來。

劉莉介紹：“以前很多冰雪運動員的服裝都是從國外直接購買，成本很高，現在我們國家為了打破進口依賴，加強了自主研發力度，這樣更適合中國運動員體型和技戰術特點。對我們來說，掌握自己的知識產權，做出適合中國運動員的比賽服。同時，建立國內自主研發高性能運動服裝體系，也是北京服裝學院的一個追求目標——在衣服上講好中國故事。”

實現四項關鍵技術創新

劉莉希望通過冬奧會的舉辦，助推我國運動服裝產業高質量發展，書寫科技創新與運動服裝的“冰雪奇緣”。隨著北京冬奧會的腳步臨近，在比賽服裝方面，項目團隊已經實現了‘快、護、暖、美’四個關鍵技術創新。

快 劉莉團隊著重研發的第一類是競速類服裝。“速度滑冰比賽服是歷時兩年多啃下來的硬骨頭。快就是對于所有速度類比賽來講而言的，因為冬季項目普遍的速度很快，如何實現快的問題？一件速滑比賽服已經不再是一件簡簡單單的衣服，而是一個融合了眾多最新科技成果和最新加工工藝的高科技產品，不僅具備藝術美觀的視覺效果，還要具備減阻、安全、合體等強大的功能，競速類項目比賽服設計重點在于降低阻力。通過科學化設計面料組織結構、服裝結構設計，增強最佳姿態運動板型適體度，實現跨尺度協同減阻，有效降低阻力，幫助運動員提升賽場表現。在競速類比賽中0.01秒就可以決定獎牌的歸屬，這也意味著除了運動員的現場發揮外，運動員服裝和裝備也起著很關鍵的作用，這其中也涉及了很多學科的內容，如紡織工程，服裝工程，機械工程，熱物理，生物力學，談到這方面的研究進展及應用時劉莉道，“在緊身比賽服研發中，我們找與冬奧會參賽選手身型相似的運動員進行初步實驗。在運動員身上印滿無序黑色斑點，模擬短道速滑技術動作，光學儀器會記錄動作過程中的皮膚應變情況，通過分析模型進而了解動作規律。我們最終根據規律、結合肌肉壓縮需要，來制作適合運動員技戰術特點的 Skin Suit 比賽服，合體的剪裁能有效降低阻力、提高運動能力。速度類項目賽服一般為緊身連體服，研發時候，特意把板型做成技術動作狀態時的服裝，是“站不起來”的服裝，服裝前身有較強拉力，從而穩定運動員的運動姿態。最佳姿態立體裁剪、減阻結構、適度壓縮是速度類比賽服的研發重點。” 中國速度滑冰隊運動員高亭宇的賽服制作從模型入手到面料制造，曾經對比過56種服裝結構，單是帽型就做了21種，并篩選出最適合他的技戰術特點的比賽服結構。

從項目階段性研發成果看，短道速滑、速度滑冰比賽服比現役服裝減阻超10%，鋼架雪車、高山滑雪等運動項目也有顯著提升。

北京時間2021年11月14日凌晨結束的2021-2022國際滑聯速度滑冰世界杯波蘭站男子500米比賽中，曾獲2018年平昌冬奧會500米項目銅牌的運動員高亭宇雖然在外道出發，但是直道爆發力出色的他率先取得了優勢，并在第二個彎道過后將領先優勢逐漸擴大，最終以34秒265的成績率先沖線，打破了場地紀錄。 此前不久，高亭宇身著科研團隊研發的第七版黑白測試樣衣在“中國杯”上打破了自己保持的國內記錄。

護 冬季運動項目速度快、環境惡劣，運動員損傷風險較大，主要有沖撞和刺割兩類損傷，“護”涉及訓練過程中裝備的保護性能，主要針對沖擊類損傷。對于使用冰刀的情況，要進行刺割類防護，團隊中多個研發單位聯合攻堅了這一課題。她們采用復合紗線技術，將兩種性能的紗線復合，使所織造的面料超強、超韌、超彈，具備防切割性能，面料防切割等級滿足ISU要求。針對高山滑雪運動員在訓練比賽中因旗門反彈造成抽打損傷情況，科研團隊使用吸能材料設計柱型陣列護具結構，已制成專項防護裝備配備高山滑雪、自由式滑雪大跳臺隊日常訓練。短道速滑比賽服則全身使用防切割面料，全面保護運動員身體，同時考慮肌肉壓縮、服裝減阻功能。

暖 “暖”屬于低溫保護功能，對于所有冬季項目都會用到“暖”。劉莉教授說““暖”主要通過兩種途徑：一是基礎的保暖纖維的研發，仿生學材料的開發；二是主動加熱技術，把電的能量轉化成主動釋放出來的熱量，將加熱膜和線植入訓練服裝中。保障穿著人員在零下30℃環境下可持續作業8小時以上。目前，保暖樣衣已經設計完成，她們設計制作的堡壘服裝在習近平總書記視察冬奧工作時給予了肯定和關注。

美 讓我們將目光穿越到2019年3月21日日本埼玉超級競技場，對芭蕾舞劇特別是花滑認知度很高的日本觀眾早早地來到了超級競技場觀看花滑世錦賽中最為精彩的雙人滑比賽，最后一個上場的是我國選手隋文靜韓聰組合，只見隋文靜身穿皇室藍的藍色紗裙帶著隨意點綴的亮片閃閃發光，典雅大氣，而韓聰一身黑色套裝裁剪得體，小立領，前胸兩側蕾絲點綴，紳士派頭十足，兩位選手以一曲《雨，在你黑色的眼眸中》演繹了一套幾近完美的自由滑，即使外行也能感受到充盈的感染力，力量與柔美并存，仿佛看到了一場云端的幻夢，流動的詩與夢----含著眼淚微笑，跨過低谷挫折的勇氣，太美了，霎時間18000名觀眾群體起立鼓掌，standing ovation，這是芭蕾舞劇中最高表達敬意的方式，最終他們以自由滑155.60分、總成績234.84分，打破自由滑和總成績雙料世界紀錄拿到了冠軍，這是繼2017年芬蘭世錦賽后競技生涯中第二次獲得世錦賽金牌，他們穿的衣服正是劉莉團隊設計制作的，對此劉莉自豪地說“花樣滑冰是一個高度融合藝術與競技的體育項目，所以運動員考斯騰設計的好壞直接影響運動員的總體成績。因為花滑比賽得分由基礎分值、質量加分、節目內容分三部分組成，其中節目內容分中包括了五項：滑行技術、步伐銜接、完成程度、編舞和音樂表現。表現力可以借由比賽服獲得最直觀的視覺展現。如何增強表現力需要我們研究思考，一件合身滿意的服裝會讓運動員提升信心，有利于他們在賽場上發揮得更好。”

除了負責給“蔥桶組合”隋文靜和韓聰設計雙人滑服裝外，劉莉設計團隊第二年又增加了單人滑服裝并嘗試做冰舞服裝，到目前為止劉莉團隊總共為中國花滑隊創作設計方案超千套，制作比賽服、表演服均超100套。2019年度在國際最大主流花滑主流花滑論壇Golden Skating中獲評“最佳比賽服（Best Costume）”。

作為一名科研工作者，面對今天取得的成績，劉莉有許多感想迫不及待地想和我們分享，她說：“我唯一知道的是我什么都不知道，今天的成績，得益于北服近年來不斷加大對科研的投入，給予教師在科研上更多的政策支持等舉措，在北服黨委指引下，全校上下形成了尊重創新、鼓勵創新的良好氛圍，讓我和團隊從無到有、從小到大不斷成長。我覺得我所從事的服裝科學領域研究從未像現在這樣令人激動和期待過。在服務保障的過程中，我們的研發團隊和運動員們已經超乎了研究與被研究的關系，很期待北京2022 年冬奧會和冬殘奧會的開幕。我希望各位青年學子要有夢想、敢想敢干，更要厚積薄發、勇于擔當，在屬于自己的舞臺上綻放光彩。”

Liu Li， deputy chief engineer of the expert working group of the General Administration of Sports to prepare for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics， director of the National Winter Sports Clothing Equipment R&D Center， director of integration of defense and civilian technologies Center of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， professor of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， consultant professor and part-time doctoral tutor of Tiangong University， visiting scholar of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University and Cornell University， etc. However， these titles are not enough to describe her important position in the field of fashion design.

A month ago， Liu Li， as a representative of scientific researchers， received review by President Xi Jinping. On a winter afternoon 22 days before the countdown to the Winter Olympics， we finally met Liu Li， who had just returned from a business trip of Anta Group.

Actively preparing for the Winter Olympics

As soon as the PyeongChang Winter Olympics is over， the Beijing Winter Olympics cycle officially comes. In order to prepare the Winter Olympics， the Ministry of Science and Technology set special project， which launched since 2018. In 2019， the project of "Key Technologies for Research and Development of High-performance Clothing in Winter Sports and Training Competition"， jointly undertaken by 10 units， was approved. This project mainly serves the athletes of the national team， and is the only clothing project among all the projects preparing for the 2022 Winter Olympics. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the lead unit， the whole project team includes 6 colleges and universities and 4 enterprises， and Anta Group is also one of the members.

Liu Li graduated from Tiangong University Clothing Design Engineering with undergraduate， master and doctoral degrees. This experience made her a fashion designer with engineer thinking， which just met the requirements of Olympics winter Project. Before coming into contact with the Winter Olympics clothing project， Liu has been engaged in the research and development of functional clothing and highperformance clothing， and studied how to combine "human science" with "fashion design". She once designed the army aviation jumpsuits and NBC protective clothing.

"In the past， many athletes purchased professional clothes from abroad， which cost a lot. Now， in order to break the dependence on imports， our country has strengthened its independent research and development efforts， which is more suitable for Chinese athletes’ physique and technical and tactical characteristics. For us， mastering our own intellectual property rights and making competitive clothes suitable for our athletes is also one of our Winter Olympics contribution. At the same time， the establishment of the domestic independent research and development of high-performance sportswear system is also a pursuit goal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， telling Chinese stories byclothes. "

Realize four key technological innovations

Liu hopes to promote the high-quality development of China’s sportswear industry. With the approach of Beijing Winter Olympics， the project team has achieved four key technological innovations of "speed， protection， warmth and beauty" in clothing.

Speed Besides the fashionable and beautiful figure skating clothes， the second category designed by Liu is racing clothes."The speed skating competition suit is super hard. A speed skating competition suit is no longer a simple dress， but a high-tech product that integrates many latest scientific and technological achievements. It not only has artistic and beautiful visual effects， but also has powerful functions such as drag reduction， safety， and comfort. Scientific design of fabric structure design can helped athletes improve their performance.

In the 2021-2022 FILA Speed Skating World Cup men’s 500m competition in Poland， Gao Tingyu， an athlete who achieved a breakthrough for Chinese men’s speed skating at the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Olympics， started from the outer road， but he took the lead in the straight road with excellent skills， finally winned in 34.265 seconds. Gao Tingyu was wearing the seventh edition of the clothes developed by Liu’s research team.

Protection Winter sports are characterized by fast speed and harsh environment， and athletes are at great risk of injury. There are mainly two types of injuries， collision and stabbing. Protection is the most important thing， Liu’s team mainly aimed at collision. In the case of using ice skates， it is necessary to carry out stab-cutting protection. Previously， we purchased foreign fabrics directly. Now， Liu’s team has cooperated with several R&D units to tackle this issue. They use compound yarn technology， which makes the woven fabric more strong， tough and elastic.

In view of the whipping injury caused by flag rebound in training competition， the research team used new energy materials to design the column type of protective gear structure， and made special protective equipment to equip alpine skiing and freestyle skiing. Shorttrack speed skating competition clothing uses cut resistant fabrics to fully protect athletes’ bodies， while considering muscle compression and clothing drag reduction functions.

Warmth Warmth should be considered in all winter events. Professor Liu said that there are two ways to keep warm. First， the research and development of basic thermal fibers and bionic materials； second， the active heating technology， which converts the energy of electricity into the heat released， and implants the heating film and thread into training clothes. Ensure that people who wear the clothes can work continuously for more than 8 hours at minus 30℃. At present， the warm-keeping clothes have been designed， and the fortress clothes they designed and made were affirmed and praised by President Xi Jinping.

Beautiful Saitama Super Arena in Japan on March 21st， 2019， Japanese audiences who have a high awareness of ballet， especially figure skating， came to the arena early to watch the most wonderful double figure skating competition in the World Championships. The last team to was Sui Wenjing and Han Cong from China. Sui Wenjing was wearing a blue elegant gauze skirt， while Han Cong was dressed in a black suit. The clothes they wore were designed and made by the Liu Li’s team. Liu Li proudly said that " as a designer， I need to think about how to enhance expressiveness by clothes. Because a well-fitted clothing helps athletes improve their confidence and perform better. "

In addition to design for Sui Wenjing and Han Cong， Liu tried to make ice dancing costumes in the second year. So far， the team of Liu Li has created more than 1，000 sets of clothes for Chinese figure skating， and produced more than 100 sets of competition clothes and performance clothes. In 2019， she was awarded"Best Costume" in Golden Skating， the largest mainstream figure skating forum in the world.

As a researcher， Liu Li has many feelings that she can’t wait to share with us in the face of today’s achievements. She said， "The only thing I know is that I don’t know anything. We could not have achieved the results without the help of our school and the policy support from the State. I feel that I have never been so exciting and expected for the field where I am working. In the process of service， the relationship between our R&D team and athletes has more than ordinary colleagues. We are looking forward to the opening of Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics and Winter Paralympics. Also， I hope that all young students have their own dreams， and dare to dream and chase their dreams， and be brave to take responsibility and shine on their own stage. "

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