Hanfu Fashion Revival Strengthens漢服時(shí)尚強(qiáng)勢(shì)復(fù)興

Decades ago as a young boy， Zhao Bo loved travelling with his tailor father on visits to ancient towns and villages across China collecting traditional clothes once worn by their Han Chinese ancestors.

二三十年前，趙波還是個(gè)小男孩，就喜歡跟著做裁縫的父親一起游歷中國(guó)各地的古鎮(zhèn)古村，四處收集他們漢族祖先曾經(jīng)穿過(guò)的傳統(tǒng)服飾。

The 35-year-old comes from a family of tailors in North China and has continued his father’s passion as an adult， collecting more than 2，000 pieces of ancient clothing， and reproduced dozens more by studying antiquities and ancient books.

現(xiàn)年35歲的趙波生于華北的一個(gè)裁縫世家，成年后繼承了父親對(duì)服飾的熱情。他收藏了2000余件古代服飾，并通過(guò)研究古物和古籍復(fù)刻了數(shù)十件。

Zhao now heads a museum in Yongqing， Hebei province， showcasing antique garments， some more than 500 years old， and handmade replicas of outfits dating back to more than 2，000 years ago.

如今，趙波是河北省永清縣一家博物館的館長(zhǎng)。館內(nèi)陳列著一些有著500多年歷史的古董服飾，以及2000多年前服裝的手工復(fù)制版。

An intangible cultural inheritor appointed by the Hebei provincial government to promote Chinese culture， Zhao is a part of a growing movement among younger Chinese that has helped revive hanfu， the name given to clothing once worn by ancient Han Chinese.

河北省政府授予趙波非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)傳承人的稱號(hào)，他肩負(fù)著弘揚(yáng)中華文化的使命。同時(shí)，他也是中國(guó)年輕一代日益壯大的漢服復(fù)興運(yùn)動(dòng)中的一員。漢服，即古代漢族人穿的服飾。

Annual sales of hanfu clothing have leapt from around 190 million yuan in 2015 to more than 10 billion yuan （US$1.45 billion） last year， according to Chinese data analysis firm iiMedia Research1.

中國(guó)數(shù)據(jù)分析機(jī)構(gòu)“艾媒咨詢”的數(shù)據(jù)顯示，漢服的年銷售額從2015年約1.9億元人民幣躍升至2021年超過(guò)100億元人民幣（約合14.5億美元）。

“People barely talked about hanfu when I opened my museum in 2014，” said Zhao. “They didn’t even know whether it meant clothes worn by the Han Chinese throughout history， or clothes specifically worn during the Han dynasty.”

“2014年我剛開(kāi)博物館時(shí)，幾乎沒(méi)什么人談?wù)摑h服。”趙波說(shuō)，“當(dāng)時(shí)人們甚至不知道‘漢服’究竟是指中國(guó)歷史上漢族人穿的衣服，還是特指漢代的服裝。”

“But about three years ago I started feeling a craze， especially among the youth， unlike before when hanfu fans were often older people，” he said.

“不過(guò)，大約三年前，我開(kāi)始感受到一股漢服熱，在年輕人中間尤為盛行，與之前喜愛(ài)漢服的人通常是年長(zhǎng)者的情況截然不同。”他說(shuō)道。

People wearing hanfu-style dress has become a common sight on the streets of major Chinese cities in recent years as increasing numbers of teenagers and young adults turn to the outfits as both a statement of fashion and cultural identity.

近年來(lái)，在中國(guó)各大城市的街頭，人們身著漢服已經(jīng)屢見(jiàn)不鮮。越來(lái)越多的青少年和年輕人選擇身著漢服，這既是對(duì)時(shí)尚的詮釋，也是對(duì)文化身份的認(rèn)同。

Hanfu covers clothes worn during a number of China’s historical periods. The most popular styles are from the Tang， Song， and Ming dynasties. The Ming was the last native Han Chinese dynasty to rule China before the Manchu2 seized power in 1636 and formed the Qing dynasty that lasted until 1911.

漢服涵蓋了中國(guó)歷史上多個(gè)朝代的服裝。唐、宋、明三個(gè)朝代的風(fēng)格最受歡迎。明朝是中國(guó)最后一個(gè)由漢族人統(tǒng)治的朝代。1636年，滿族人奪取政權(quán)，建立了清朝，一直持續(xù)到1911年。

Hanfu often consists of a flowing robe in beautiful shades of colour and a skirt with intricate3 embroidery.

漢服通常由一件色彩美麗的飄逸上衣和一條帶有精致刺繡的下裳組成。

Zhao said the in-vogue hanfu attire4 seen on the streets of China today is not exactly what ancient Han people once wore. However， he said it remains a positive promotion of the more authentic hanfu clothing displayed at places like his museum.

趙波表示，如今在中國(guó)街頭看到的流行漢服與古代漢人所穿并不完全相同。不過(guò)，他表示，對(duì)于在他的博物館和其他類似場(chǎng)所展示的更正宗的漢服來(lái)說(shuō)，這仍然是一種積極的推廣。

“Only when there’s great interest from the public will there be people who bother to learn more about hanfu and make it historically accurate，” he said.

他說(shuō)：“只有當(dāng)公眾對(duì)漢服產(chǎn)生濃厚興趣時(shí)，才會(huì)有人愿意深入了解漢服，并把它做得符合歷史。”

As China’s leaders have pushed for a stronger sense of national Chinese identity and renewed cultural confidence in recent years， hanfu has become a visual symbol of China’s renaissance.

近年來(lái)，隨著中國(guó)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人推動(dòng)加強(qiáng)中華民族認(rèn)同意識(shí)和重塑文化自信，漢服已成為中國(guó)復(fù)興的一個(gè)視覺(jué)象征。

Fashion-conscious youth in Chinese mainland have enjoyed the official promotion and turned hanfu cosplay into a way to express themselves and to connect with history and tradition.

中國(guó)大陸追求時(shí)尚的年輕人積極響應(yīng)官方推廣，并將漢服角色扮演作為一種表達(dá)自我、與歷史和傳統(tǒng)相聯(lián)系的方式。

Lisa Zhou， a 17-year-old high school student from Shanghai， said she was fascinated by hanfu after seeing videos on social media where girls “l(fā)ook like fairies” in historical attire.

來(lái)自上海的17歲高中生莉薩·周表示，此前她在社交媒體視頻上看到一些女孩穿著漢服“像仙女一樣”，便對(duì)漢服產(chǎn)生了濃厚興趣。

She was also influenced by enthusiasts from her school who formed a hanfu club， something no school had several years ago， she said.

她說(shuō)，學(xué)校里的一些漢服愛(ài)好者也影響了她。那些愛(ài)好者成立了一個(gè)漢服社團(tuán)，幾年前還沒(méi)有學(xué)校有這樣的社團(tuán)。

But the teenager pointed out that she doesn’t just like the clothing because it looks pretty， but it also represents China’s cultural heritage.

但她也指出，她之所以喜歡這種服飾，不僅因?yàn)槊烙^，更因?yàn)樗休d了中國(guó)的文化遺產(chǎn)。

“As science and technology develop quickly， we should not forget our traditional culture. As a member of the new generation， I hope we can revitalise our traditional culture in our daily lives，” she said.

“隨著科學(xué)技術(shù)迅速發(fā)展，我們不應(yīng)該忘記我們的傳統(tǒng)文化。作為新一代的成員，我希望我們能在日常生活中重振我們的傳統(tǒng)文化。”她說(shuō)道。

It was for this reason that she wore a hanfu outfit to a recent family gathering， she said.

她表示，正因如此，她最近穿了一套漢服參加家庭聚會(huì)。

Such attitudes are common among Zhou’s peers， according to the iiMedia report. Nearly 70 per cent of hanfu enthusiasts surveyed said the top reason they wore the garments was to “promote Chinese culture”， with “l(fā)ooking good” listed as a secondary concern by many.

根據(jù)艾媒咨詢的報(bào)告，在周的同齡人中，這種想法很普遍。在接受調(diào)查的漢服愛(ài)好者中，近70%的人表示，他們穿漢服的首要原因是“弘揚(yáng)中華文化”，而“好看”則是許多人的次要考量因素。

Despite its rising popularity， most hanfu fans tend to only wear the outfits for photo shoots with friends and at traditional festivals， the report said. Only about 20 per cent of them have worn hanfu in their daily lives.

報(bào)告顯示，盡管漢服的熱度不斷攀升，但大多數(shù)漢服愛(ài)好者通常只在與朋友拍照或參加傳統(tǒng)節(jié)日活動(dòng)時(shí)才穿著漢服。僅有約20%的人在日常生活中穿過(guò)漢服。

Zhao， who wears adapted hanfu on a daily basis， said the best way to preserve tradition was to adapt it to modern life.

趙波每天都穿改良版的漢服。他表示，保護(hù)傳統(tǒng)的最佳方式是讓它融入現(xiàn)代生活。

“The government has vowed to build China into a major cultural power by 2035. There are still more than 10 years to go， and I believe during this period we’ll see a continuous surge in traditional clothing，” he said.

他說(shuō)：“政府下決心到2035年將中國(guó)建成文化強(qiáng)國(guó)。還有十多年的時(shí)間，我相信在這期間，我們將會(huì)看到傳統(tǒng)服飾的持續(xù)復(fù)興。”

（譯者單位：大連外國(guó)語(yǔ)大學(xué)高級(jí)翻譯學(xué)院）

1艾媒咨詢，一家中國(guó)的全球新經(jīng)濟(jì)產(chǎn)業(yè)第三方數(shù)據(jù)挖掘和分析機(jī)構(gòu)。" 2 Manchu滿族，中國(guó)的少數(shù)民族之一。

3 intricate復(fù)雜精細(xì)的；精心制作的。" 4 attire具有獨(dú)特風(fēng)格的服裝，或特定場(chǎng)合穿的服裝。