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范思哲:奢華一生的傳奇

2008-01-01 00:00:00鄧力源
初中生學習·低 2008年4期

She's known for her platinum blonde hair, her extravagant boulder-sized jewels, and her lavish parties—but above all else, she is known as the sister of major Italian designer Gianni Versace, and reigning head of the Versace fashion empire. Donatella Versace has moved from the background to the limelight, flawlessly carrying on her older brother's legacy.

她最為人所熟知的是鉑金色的頭發、極度奢華的珠寶和慷慨大方的宴會,然而最重要的是,她是意大利一流設計師詹尼·范思哲的妹妹,并且現在掌控著范思哲流行帝國的前進方向。多納泰拉·范思哲已經從幕后走到了中心,矢志不移地繼續著她哥哥的產業。

Donatella was born on May 2, 1955 in Reggio di Calabria, Italy,the youngest of four children. Her father was a personal financier to the Italian aristocracy. Donatella was very close to her brother Gianni Versace, and often served as his inspiration, wearing clothing that he had designed specifically for her. Despite their ten-year age difference, the two of them enjoyed the active Italian nightlife together, frequenting clubs and discos when Donatella was barely a teenager. It was her brother, she claims, who made her \"wild.\"

多納泰拉1955年5月2號出生在意大利的勒佐卡拉布里亞,是4個小孩里最小的。她父親是意大利貴族的個人理財家。多納泰拉和她的哥哥詹尼·范思哲的關系很好,經常給哥哥提供靈感,穿著哥哥專門為她設計的衣服。盡管年齡差距大至10歲,他們經常一起去享受意大利的夜生活,頻繁出入俱樂部、迪斯科舞廳。這些時候多納泰拉才僅僅是一個青少年。她說是哥哥使她變得“狂野”。

When Gianni moved to Florence to begin a career in knitwear design in the mid-1970s, Donatella followed, attending Florence University to study Italian literature. On her days off from school, she spent time in the Versace studio. After graduating,she and Gianni relocated to Milan and moved in together. She joined her brother's newly founded fashion company, initially to handle public relations. But her continuous input, and Gianni's reliance on her opinions, made it clear that she was better suited to be more involved in the design aspect of the business. As the Versace label made a name for itself, and the business was firmly established as one of the premier names in the fashion world, Gianni continued to depend on his sister's judgments of his work. In the 1980s, he dedicated a perfume to her (aptly called \"Blonde\"). He also gave her free reign to design her own line, Versus, still well-known today.

20世紀70年代,當詹尼前往佛羅倫薩開始他的服裝設計創業的時候,多納泰拉跟了過來,到佛羅倫薩大學學習意大利文化。她不在學校的時候把時間都花在范思哲工作室。畢業以后她和詹尼一起定居在米蘭。她加入了她哥哥剛剛成立的服裝時尚公司,剛進去的時候主要負責公關。但是隨著她不懈的付出以及詹尼對她的觀點的信賴,她更適合在設計方面工作這一點凸顯出來。當范思哲已經成為了一個品牌并且志在成為流行時尚領域的名牌之一的時候,詹尼依然依賴著妹妹對他工作的評價。80年代,詹尼特意為她設計了一款香水,并且恰當地取名為“金花女郎”。詹尼也讓她自由地設計她自己的品牌線“緯尚時”,至今依然聞名于世。

Donatella's skill in the arena of public relations went far from unused. She was among the first - possibly the very first - to have the idea of using celebrities and well-known models to boost sales and press exposure of the Versace line. And it worked: the Versace label continues to be displayed by hordes of A-list celebrities.

多納泰拉在公關領域的能力越來越突出。她是第一個想到用名人和眾所周知的模特兒來促銷和擴大范思哲知名度的人之一,或許是唯一的一個。這個做法很湊效:范思哲的品牌被大量的名人不斷展示著。

Life changed dramatically for Donatella on July 15th, 1997. It was on that day that her beloved brother Gianni was tragically gunned down outside his mansion in Miami by a suspected serial killer. No clear motive for the killing was ever established. A grief-stricken Donatella ushered the Versace family to a secluded resort in the Caribbean so that they could mourn. Gianni's death led to the cancellation of Versace's Spring-Summer '98 Collection, and a halt of all the company's operations.

1997年7月15日,多納泰拉的人生發生了戲劇性的變化。這一天她深愛的哥哥詹尼被一個連環殺人嫌疑犯悲慘地射倒在他在邁阿密的公寓外面。至今還沒有確定這次暗殺的確切動機。極度悲傷的多納泰拉把范思哲家族的人帶到了加勒比一個隱蔽的度假地哀悼。詹尼的去世導致范思哲1998春夏展銷會的取消和公司所有業務的中斷。

But Donatella realized that life had to go on, even without her older brother; besides, Gianni had told her that if anything ever happened to him, she was to take the reigns. So she did. A mere three months after Gianni's death, Donatella presented a collection, and in the spring of 1998 her first mainline collection debuted. Donatella is now the Vice-President of the Versace Group and the Chief Designer. The Versace Group has expanded under Donatella's influence to include Palazzo Versace, a line of luxurious hotels with locations in Australia and Dubai. In October of 2002, Gianni and Donatella's most famously designed Versace clothing were displayed in a special exhibit of the historical Victoria and Albert Museum of London.

然而多納泰拉意識到即使沒有哥哥生活還是要繼續;并且哥哥以前告訴過他如果他有什么意外就由她來掌管。她照著做了。詹尼去世僅僅3個月后她出席了一個時裝展。1998年春天她的第一個主線時裝展亮相。多納泰拉現在是范思哲集團的副總和首席設計師。范思哲集團在她的影響下擴張了范思哲宮殿:在澳大利亞和迪拜的一系列豪華賓館。2002年10月,詹尼和多納泰拉設計的大部分著名的范思哲服飾在倫敦的維多利亞阿伯特博物院一個特殊展覽中展出。

Donatella has been regularly impersonated by Maya Rudolph on the comedy skit show Saturday Night Live, which airs on the NBC network. She has held cameo performances in many films relating to fashion and its industry, such as Zoolander. Also, in many other films, including the 2006 hit The Devil Wears Prada, the mention of \"Donatella\" is used sporadically. In the new hit ABC series Ugly Betty a fictional character, Fabia, played by actress Gina Gershon, is a parody of Donatella.

多納泰拉被Maya Rudolph在幽默脫口秀Saturday Night Live模仿,這個節目在NBC播放。她還在很多涉及流行時尚的電影像Zoolander中有表演。另外在很多電影包括2006年的熱播劇The Devil Wears Prada中“多納泰拉”的說法也是經常被用到。ABC熱播的系列劇《丑女風蒂》中吉娜·葛森扮演的一個虛構的角色Fabia就是對多納泰拉的滑稽的模仿。

◆編輯:譚添夏

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