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謁訪英烈張蒼水遺跡

2011-01-01 00:00:00傅通先
文化交流 2011年5期

名垂青史的民族英雄張蒼水,有“明季第一忠烈”、“浙江歷史上第一完人”之譽。他崇高的愛國主義精神和寧死不屈的凜然氣節,至今光彩燦燦。清明節前夕,記者踏著英烈的足跡,作了一次尋訪之旅。

好一幢書香縷縷的故居

世人應該慶幸,張蒼水的故居、一幢明代古建筑,仍然完好地保存在寧波市中心。

3月31日下午,記者在張蒼水十九世后裔張誠的陪同下驅車趕往那里。這是一座重檐歇山頂式的二層建筑,青磚黑瓦,坐北朝南,門樓雕磚,重檐正樓及東西二層廂房組成三合院落,西庭院連著一層五開間硬山頂建筑。還有赤柱紅板,門窗鏤花,透著縷縷書香的書房。

明萬歷四十八年(1620)九月十九日,張蒼水就誕生在這個書香之家。祖父給他取名煌言,字玄箸,日后卻以蒼水之號名震天下。

正是在這座建筑面積1724平方米、有著舒適書房和寬闊院落的屋子,自幼聰穎過人的張蒼水飽讀詩書,過目成誦,為后來的《北征集》《冰槎集》《采薇吟》等驚世詩文打下堅實基礎。也正是在這個庭院,極喜習武的張蒼水聞雞起舞,揮刀擊劍。年方弱冠,武藝超群,在鄉試中箭無虛發,一鳴驚人。

而當國家危亡之秋,張蒼水毅然散盡家財,奮舉義旗,投入南明軍旅,戎馬倥傯19年,書寫了壯麗的人生篇章。

然而,上世紀90年代,寧波舊城改造期間,圍繞這幢建筑的拆留問題卻曾有過一番意見交鋒。經過36家媒體和大批有識之士同聲相應,奔走呼號,國家文物部門高度重視和張誠的積極努力,終于保住了這份珍貴的文化遺產。

后經寧波市政府撥款修繕,這座明代建筑已辟為“張蒼水紀念館”對外開放。中堂繪有《張蒼水一生》的巨幅油畫,以歷史長卷展示張蒼水的風云歷程和民族氣節。中心雕塑為捻鬚閑坐的張蒼水和座前小兒執子下棋的塑像,向觀眾展示“如果沒有這場戰爭……”而應該有的生活。

張蒼水出生的西廂書房,已辟為“冰槎講堂”,展出英雄遺墨。正門外左側塑有張蒼水高大威武的戎裝立像,戴頭盔,穿甲胄,左手按劍,右手執袍,像在永遠守護著故國和家園。

四圍綠草如茵,碧樹掩映,院內方磚鋪地,古色古香;室內陳設井井有條,簡明大方。整幢古建筑猶如一顆明珠,鑲嵌在寧波中山廣場與中山公園之間。

好一個兵營處處的島嶼

在張誠和當地干部的引導下,3月31日上午,記者登上了當年張蒼水苦心經營多年和被執之地——象山縣南田花岙島。

在面積9.83平方公里的花岙島上,至今保存著10多處兵營和屯田遺址。雖經300多年的風摧雨蝕,兵營遺址的整體格局依然清晰可見。城墻坍塌,殘垣猶存;營房雖圮,房基可辨;校場斑駁,平地尚在;地道阻塞,穹口依稀。其規模之宏大,規劃之周密,設施之完備,為明清時同類遺存所罕見。

置身其間,張蒼水用詩歌描繪的景象仿佛重現眼前:“鳩工嚴部勒,治屋亦猶兵。據水軒轅法,依山壁壘橫。短垣繚卻月,中露貫長庚。只此扶桑國,居然細柳營。”

想當年,張蒼水在此一聲號令,千軍排陣,金戈鐵馬,百舸競發,曾是何等英雄氣概!掘井汲水,屯田種糧;壘石為屋,糠菜充饑,又是何等艱苦卓絕!

1645年,張蒼水與錢肅樂共舉抗清義幟。抗清明將張名振迎接魯王監國至象山石浦之南田,張蒼水即“歸別父母妻子,扈王石浦”,使魯王得以喘息。從此,張蒼水以花岙島為抗清基地,三渡閩關,四入長江,“樓船沉浮三千里,義幟縱橫二十年”。特別是1659年,張蒼水水軍以六千之眾作為北征先鋒,第四次揮師長江,勢如破竹,直搗蕪湖,一舉攻下四府三州二十四縣,贏得大江南北歡呼雀躍,吏民父老牛酒犒勞將士。惜乎主力友軍鄭成功兵敗南京,致使張蒼水義軍腹背受敵,陷入重圍,最終全軍覆沒。

張蒼水歷經艱難潛回花岙,僅帶幾名隨從隱居花岙島。

花岙亦名懸岙,島上石林崚,地道縱橫,依仗白猿放哨守夜,原本安然無恙。可恨叛徒出賣,白猿被誘,張蒼水不幸于康熙三年(1664)七月二十七日被捕,隨后壯烈犧牲。

現在,花岙兵營遺址已經得到重視和保護,當地政府在島上建立了“張蒼水紀念館”,不時有學者和兵家前來研究考察,更有游人尋訪,莘莘學子登島學習、憑吊。綠樹高天懸魂幡,山花著色祭英雄,縈系在花岙島的英魂當與日月同輝。

好一座碧血支天的墳塋

張蒼水受執第三日被解到寧波督府,浙江提督張杰恭謹以待:“待公久矣,今得一見。”張蒼水冷語回答:“父死不能葬,國亡不能救,死有余罪。今日之事,但期速死而已。”

八月押抵杭州,總督趙廷臣以禮勸降,張蒼水作《放歌》明志:“留綱常于萬祀兮,垂節義于千齡。”康熙三年九月七日,方巾葛袍的張蒼水被獄卒用竹輿抬到官巷口弼教坊刑場。張蒼水從容下輿,遙望鳳凰山一帶景色,贊道:“好山色!”又口占絕命詞:“我年適五九,復逢九月七。大廈已不支,成仁萬事畢。”吟畢不愿下跪,坐而受刑,表現出崇高的民族氣節。

對于死后的歸宿,張蒼水在被解往杭州途中所作《將入武陵二首》已表達愿望:“國破家亡欲何之?西子湖頭有我師。日月雙懸于氏墓,乾坤半壁岳家祠。漸將赤手分三席,敢為丹心借一枝。他日素車東浙路,怒濤豈必屬鴟夷!”

張蒼水被害后,他的同鄉、友人、義士遵從烈士遺愿將他殮葬于杭州南屏山荔枝峰下,并將一同被害的參將羅子木、侍從楊冠玉、舟子三人分別葬于張蒼水墓的兩側。此后300多年間曾8次修墓,乾隆四十一年(1776)賜謚“忠烈”。1992年初,杭州市大規模修整墓冢、墓地、墓道,并在原址上重建張蒼水祠堂。祠內安放著3米高的張蒼水塑像。沙孟海、啟功、沈定庵三位著名書法家書寫的“好山色”、“忠烈千秋”、“碧血支天”三塊黑底金字的大匾高懸祠內,《投筆從戎》《保衛舟山》《從容就義》等8幅壁畫,重現了張蒼水愛國愛民、壯懷激烈的一生。

張蒼水墓背依南屏山,面向西子湖,青石砌成的圓形拱墓覆有黃土青草。整個墓地顯得古雅、樸實、莊嚴。

嫵媚西子,原本歌舞沉醉,充斥著太多的脂粉氣息。幸賴岳飛、于謙、張蒼水三位民族英雄忠骨歸葬,她才顯得更加靈秀壯美。

清明節前一日,收到張誠手機短信:“代我向張蒼水陵前獻個花籃。”我不負所托,于清明節一早購好兩只花籃,一只寫道:“先祖張蒼水永垂不朽。十九世后裔張誠敬獻。”另一只乃記者所獻,并書挽聯“廿年戰將,英名不朽;萬世雄才,精神永存!”虔敬地獻于張蒼水墓前。□

My Visit to Relics of Zhang Cangshui

By Fu Tongxian

Zhang Cangshui (1620-1664) is considered the most heroic martyr of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and the most important man in the history of Zhejiang Province. He is remembered for his patriotism and heroism. Before the Qingming Festival this year, I visited sites concerning his life and death.

Former Residence in Downtown Ningbo

His former residence, a structure in the architectural style of the Ming Dynasty, stands in the downtown Ningbo. With Zhang Cheng, the 19th-generation descendent of the great martyr, I visited the residence on the afternoon of March 31st, 2011.

The two-storied structure stands facing the south. The large compound is divided into three sections. Zhang Cangshui was born into this house of scholars on September 19, 1620. He grew up here studying Chinese classics and practicing martial arts. When the Ming Dynasty crashed, replaced by the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Cangshui organized a resistance army and fought for the lost cause for 19 years.

The residence was to be demolished in the 1990s when the city planners dreamed up a development project that disregarded the existence of the compound. A heated debate broke loose. Efforts to save the residence went aborted. The water and electricity supplies were cut off and bulldozers came. Zhang Cheng, a translator by profession, sat in the study of the residence day and night. Armed with a sword, he swore to live and die with his ancestor’s legacy. Thirty-six news media and a large group of people called for preserving the martyr’s residence. The state cultural relics authorities saved the residence by placing it under national protection.

The residence of the Ming Dynasty has been refurbished with the funds from the Ningbo Municipal Government. Today, it doubles as Zhang Cangshui Memorial Temple, open to the general public.

I went through the residence reverently. In the main hall is a large oil painting scroll portraying his combats against invading Qing army. The study in the west wing where he was born has been turned into a gallery displaying his manuscripts. Outside the gate of the residence is a statue of the general wearing armors and helmet, his left hand on the handle of a word and his right hand holding a long gown. The compound is encircled with a lawn and flanked by rows of trees. The compound ground is paved with square bricks. The residence now sits between Dr. Sun Yet-san Square and Sun Yet-san Park.

Barracks on Hua’ao Island

On the morning of March 31st, 2011, I went to the Hua’ao Island in Xiangshan County situated in the middle point of the coastline of Zhejiang Province. The 9.83-km2 island is home to more than ten relics of the military barracks and farmlands. Built more than three hundred years ago, the relics still show the structures of the military compound: living quarters, training grounds, underground tunnels.

The island served as Zhang’s military base for his four north expeditions. His fourth and last expedition started in 1659. His six-thousand-men navy sailed into the Yangtze River and restored a large area. But the expedition failed at last. His army was wiped out. He came back to Hua’ao Island with only a few followers. Betrayed by a former soldier, the island was known by the Qing Dynasty. Zhang was arrested on July 27, 1664, twenty years after the Qing Dynasty had formerly replaced the Ming. He was executed in Hangzhou on September 7, 1664.

Tomb on the West Lake

He was buried at the foot of Lizhi Peak of Nanping Hills on the south of the West Lake. On the two sides of his tomb are the tombs of three: two assistants and one boatman. Over the last three hundred years, the tombs have been restored eight times. In 1776, the Qing Dynasty conferred a title of martyr on him. In the early 1992, the Hangzhou City Government restored Zhang Cangshui Memorial Temple on the former site and refurbished the tombs and the whole burial ground and a passage. A 3-meter-tall statue of Zhang Cangshui now stands inside the temple. Three large plaques, with inscriptions handwritten by Sha Menghai, Qigong and Shen Ding’an, all great calligraphers of 20th-century China, now hang in the temple. Eight murals in the temple depict episodes of Zhang’s life.

It is said that the West Lake would look hedonistic but for the tombs of Yue Fei, Yu Qian and Zhang Cangshui, three national heroes that fought for national restoration. The West Lake is lucky to be the resting places of the heroes. They add a touch of solemnity to the lake and make its beauty graceful.

On April 4, a day before the Qingming Festival, I received a text message from Zhang Cheng. He asked me to present a flower basket to the tomb of Zhang Cangshui. On April 5th, I visited the tomb and placed two flower baskets in front of the tomb, one on behalf of Zhang Cheng and one in my own name.□

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