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高級定制里的靈魂

2012-04-29 00:00:00趙靜嫻
私人飛機 2012年8期

“我一直都懷揣著設計夢想,雖然家族事業與時尚行業南轅北轍,但卻因熱愛而忠于自己最初的夢想。對我來說,時裝設計不僅僅是愛好,更是一份值得用心耕耘的事業。”

韓璐璐憑借著對時裝設計的熱愛,長久以來一直堅持著自己的夢想。她曾游學于加拿大及意大利,于意大利米蘭Istituto Marangoni獲得碩士學位。求學期間,韓璐璐曾參與多家高端品牌的設計項目如Moncler、Jean Paul Gaultier、Frankie Morello, 并獲得優秀畢業作品大獎。從學生時期開始,韓璐璐就在設計領域嶄露頭角,她的設計天賦也慢慢被人們知曉和認可。

畢業后,她進入紐約華裔設計師HF工作室。之后, 她以自由設計師身份參與了日本頂級禮服機構Yumi Katsura的設計工作。2008年,她成立HLL設計工作室并創立網絡在線互動工作室模式,同年推出個人品牌HáN Lù Lù,以獨立服裝設計師的身份為時尚都會女性打造優雅獨特的風格造型。同時韓璐璐積極參與上海時裝周的作品發布,也與多家電視、平面媒體合作,并作為時裝專欄的自由撰稿人,介紹時尚資訊為讀者分享搭配心得。

“作為女性設計師,我偏好以女性化的視角來找尋靈感和進行設計。我的最新系列名為《美缺》,以不對稱的裁剪,面料軟硬對比的手法,表達出我對于美的態度: 女性并不用一味追求完美,看似有缺陷的性格也許正是其閃光之處。”

韓璐璐每一件新設計,都會自己親自試穿,為的是確保設計在美觀的同時,也能足夠舒適。因為只有一件具有舒適度的服裝,才能讓穿著者完全釋放最美的自我。她的設計往往不限年齡。“我一直認為演繹美與年齡無關,女性不同的閱歷能體現出不同質感的優雅。有位意大利客人,她十分喜愛我的設計, 時常在來訪中國時光顧我們的工作室。前一段,她將她21歲的女兒也介紹給我,于是她們都成了我的朋友。其實在我們這兒還有許多客人都是母女檔來到我的工作室進行定制的。”

“在中國,高級定制的概念是近幾年才真正受到關注的。許多客人已不再一味追捧大牌,而開始了解個性化創意并認可品質的珍貴。通過高級定制,我和客戶建立起在美學上的共識,并全力詮釋一種精致的生活態度。”韓璐璐有專業而充滿熱情與合作精神的團隊。她認為,一個成功的品牌,擁有好的設計師固然重要,但每個環節都相互配合并最大化地釋放能量,這樣呈現出的作品才會打動人心。

HLL設計工作室設有客戶管理服務。工作人員在測量客戶尺寸的同時,記錄下客戶的喜好,并通過資料整合,定期為她們做新品推薦,力求帶來更細致、私密化的定制服務。“環保是我在設計之余,一直希望宣揚的概念。我的設計中從不出現皮草,盡可能多地使用自然材質,如絲、羊毛、麻等。在穿搭形式上也推崇一衣多變。之前我和芬蘭的酒類品牌合作了一個環保系列,以水為主題,用紙和廢棄網作為全部材料。”

時尚不僅僅是憑眼睛看到的表象,更是用心才能體會的態度。韓璐璐喜歡將自己對生活的點滴感悟帶入設計中。一次旅行、幾張舊照片,或是凋落的花瓣都可以成為其設計的靈感。她希望自己的設計除了漂亮的外觀,更像一種載體,傳達自己所要表達的信息,引起穿者的共鳴。

“I have long cherished the designer dream. My family business couldn’t be more far away from fashion, but I cannot give up my dream. Fashion design is not just a hobby, but more a cause with all the efforts.”

Han Lulu has been true to her words. She studied in Canada and Italy and got her master’s degree from Istituto Marangoni in Milan. While still a student, she worked on projects with Moncler, Jean Paul Gaultier and Frankie Morello, and won an excellence award for her graduation works. She made an impression in school and is gradually recognized by the design community.

Upon graduation, she joined an overseas Chinese designer’s studio called HF in New York. She then participated in the design work of Yumi Katsura, the top Japanese dress designer house as an independent designer. In 2008, she opened her own HLL Studio and created an online interactive business model. Her own label HáN Lù Lù was launched in the same year. She tries to create elegant and unique style for trendy metropolitan ladies. She participated in Shanghai Fashion Week, and works with many TV and press media outlets as a fashion columnist.

“As a female designer, I get my inspiration and set out to design from a woman’s perspectives. My latest line is titled ‘Non-Perfect Beauty’. I use asymmetrical cutting and contrasting fabric to express my understanding of beauty. You don’t need to strive for perfection. Some deliberate missing could make a stronger impression.”

She tries on every piece she designed, to make sure of comfort on body. Only when one has a high comfort level can one be truly radiant. She doesn’t put an age tag to her design. “Beauty is not age sensitive. You gain elegance with age. An Italian customer loves my design and comes to my studio whenever she is in China. She introduced her 21-year-old daughter to me and we became friends too. In fact, many mother-and-daughter pairs come to my studio.”

“Haute Couture has been drawing attention only in recent years. Many customers no longer blindly chase for big brands. They care more about more personal and creative things these days. We come to a consensus about beauty with our clients and we try to capture a refined attitude towards life.” Han Lulu works with a professional and passionate team. She thinks designers are definitely important to the success of a brand, but every part counts to catch the imagination of clients.

When HLL Studio takes measures for clients, it also makes efforts to record all their preferences. By carefully studying customers’ files, the studio makes more targeted recommendations to clients, offering them more considerate and private services. “I am very keen on environmental protection. I never use fur. I try to use natural fabric as much as possible. I advocate multiple ways to wear a single item. I once worked with a Finnish wine brand to develop an environmental series. Water is the theme, and we use only paper and discarded net.”

Fashion is not just about what you see. Han Lulu tries to incorporate what she has observed and thought of in life to her works. A trip, a few old photos, some faded flower petals can be her inspiration. Han hopes that her design can be something more than a beautiful piece, a messenger for a message, to strike a chord in her clients.

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