締 造 巴 黎 的 人

文/喬納森·格蘭西 譯/陳巖

締 造 巴 黎 的 人

文/喬納森·格蘭西 譯/陳巖

In the 19th Century George-Eugène Haussmann1（1809—1891），法國政治家、拿破侖三世時期的重要官員，因主持了1853年至1870年的巴黎重建而聞名。completely redesigned and rebuilt the French capital. Jonathan Glancey2英國皇家建筑師協會的榮譽院士，英國《衛報》建筑與設計欄目的編輯人。describes how the city of today was born. 19

Paris remains one of the world’s most visited cities, and of those tens of millions drawn to its remarkably compact centre each year, the Marais3瑪黑區介于現在的巴黎第三區與第四區之間，沒有經歷奧斯曼的改造，是巴黎最古老的街區，也是巴黎當今最時尚前衛的地方。district exerts a magnetic pull.Fashionable among aristocrats before Louis XIV4（1638—1715），波旁王朝的法國國王?！猼he “Sun King”—moved his court from Versailles51682年路易十四把宮廷從巴黎遷至凡爾賽，1789年10月又被迫遷回巴黎。, this pungent66 pungent刺鼻的。quarter of narrow streets and jumble7jumble雜亂的一堆。of historic houses and courtyards sank into near-squalor8squalor骯臟；邋遢。in succeeding centuries before its renaissance9renaissance復興。in recent decades as a charming labyrinth10labyrinth迷宮。of fashion boutiques, cafés, restaurants, museums and galleries.

[2] Walking through these lively and endearing medieval streets, it seems almost incredible that they were once considered the enemy, to be demolished11demolish拆毀，拆除（建筑物）。in haste—and not, it has to be added, by the German military,who had less than healthy designs on Paris at various times between 1870 and 194512這期間法德之間發生過三次戰爭。. No, it was none other than the Emperor of France, Napoleon III13（1808—1873），1848年當選法蘭西第二共和國總統，1852年稱帝，建立法蘭西第二帝國，1870年普法戰爭失敗后退位。, and his Prefect144 prefect（法、意、日等國家的）地方行政長官；省長；縣長。for the Seine15塞納省是法國歷史上的一個省份，1790年設立，1968年撤銷。, George-Eugène Haussmann—who died 125 years ago—who had districts like the Marais in their sights.

[3] Like much of Paris, however,the Marais stank to high heaven in 1853 when the emperor instructed Haussmann to rebuild the odorous city along grand and salubrious lines16along/on (the) … lines〈非正式〉按……方式。.Entire medieval quarters of the city were to be razed with modern avenues taking their place. “It was the gutting of177 the gutting of 原意為掏空，這里理解為由內而外煥然一新。Paris,” wrote Haussmann proudly in hisMemoires.

Demolition man

[4] A public administrator with no training in architecture or urban planning, Haussmann turned Paris into a titanic18titanic巨大的。building site for 20 years.Even though he was forced to resign in 1870 as the emperor faced growing criticism for excessive expenditure,work on Haussmann’s plan continued until the late 1920s.

[5] Conceived and executed in three phases, the plan involved the demolition of 19,730 historic buildings and the construction of 34,000 new ones. Old streets gave way to long, wide avenues characterised by rows of regularly aligned19align排列整齊。and generously proportioned neo-classical apartment blocks faced in creamy stone.

[6] Along with imperious20imperious盛氣凌人的。avenues,Haussmann engineered grand squares,city parks modelled on London’s Hyde Park21海德公園占地160萬平方米，是英國倫敦最知名的公園。, a comprehensive sewage system,a new aqueduct22aqueduct人工水道；高架渠。giving wide access to fresh water, a network of underground gas pipes for lighting streets and buildings, elaborate fountains,grandiloquent23grandiloquent夸張的，夸大的。public lavatories24lavatory廁所；盥洗室。and rows of newly planted trees.

[7] This urban infrastructure was matched by bold new railway stations—Gare du Nord and Gare de L’Est255巴黎北站和巴黎東站位于巴黎市區北部的第10區，兩座火車站之間相距300米。—the opulent26opulent豪華的；闊氣的。Paris Opéra27巴黎歌劇院（Opéra de Paris）又稱為加尼葉歌劇院（Opéra Garnier），是由查爾斯·加尼葉（Charles Garnier ）于1861年設計的，將古希臘羅馬式柱廊、巴洛克等幾種建筑形式完美地結合在一起，規模宏大，精美細致，金碧輝煌，被譽為是一座繪畫、大理石和金飾交相輝映的劇院。, new schools,churches, two dozen city squares, a brace of28a brace of 一對。ambitious theatres at Place du Chatelet29夏特萊廣場取名自同名的一座古城堡，廣場西側是巴黎最大的劇院夏特萊大劇院，東側是市立大劇院。, the giant, iron-framed Les Halles30=Les Halles Centrales中央市場，位于巴黎市中心的第1區，自12世紀起就是新鮮食物的批發市場。1970年代，巴黎政府開始對城市進行改造，中央市場遷到了巴黎南郊的朗吉（Rungis）。food market, (èmile Zola31（1840—1902），法國自然主義小說家和理論家，自然主義文學流派創始人與領袖?！痵“Belly of Paris”32《巴黎之腹》（法語書名Le Ventre de Paris），左拉1873年出版的小說，以巴黎蔬菜魚肉市場為背景，描寫巴黎這個大都市每天所消耗的各種食物，它們的來源分配，以及販賣和購買這些食物的人的故事。), and the sensational network of a dozen avenues radiating from the Arc de Triomphe33凱旋門，拿破侖·波拿巴為紀念打敗俄奧聯軍于1805年下令修建。at the core of Haussmann’s Place de l’ètoile34星形廣場，奧斯曼環繞凱旋門修建的圓形廣場，1970年改名戴高樂廣場。.

[8] Since renamed Place Charles de Gaulle, l’ètoile is every foreign driver’s nightmare experience: well,you try heading into fast and furious35fast and furious（游戲、表演等）生動活潑的，喧嘩的。traf fi c coming at you from 12 directions simultaneously while attempting to negotiate366 negotiate通過，越過（險要路段）。, or fight, your way around Napoleon Bonaparte’s monumental victory arch.

Rip it up37 rip up 撕碎，撕毀。 and start again

[9] No other major city, before or since, has been transformed so radically during peacetime. It employed huge numbers of skilled and unskilled workers along with architects, engineers and landscape gardeners. It restored the city to health after long decades of cholera and typhus38cholera and typhus霍亂和斑疹傷寒，曾在法國肆虐。. It gave Parisians of all classes parks to play and relax in.

[10] Theoretically, its broad avenues allowed government troops free movement to maintain public order at times of barricades, riots and other disturbances. And, at a time when the city doubled in size and its population trebled39treble（使）成為三倍。, it gave Paris a sense of40a sense of 一種……感覺。unity together with an air of411 an air of 一種……氛圍。bourgeois prosperity.

[11] What still seems astonishing is that so much of the city was demolished and reordered on what seems like the whim42whim心血來潮；突發的奇想。of an emperor and his Prefect of the Seine, Haussmann. Napoleon III, however, was following in the footsteps43follow in the footsteps of 效法，步……的后塵。of his uncle, Napoleon Bonaparte, who had equally grand designs on Paris. “If only the heavens had given me twenty more years of rule and a little leisure”, he wrote in exile on Saint Helena after the Battle of Waterloo, “one would search vainly for the old Paris; nothing of it would remain but vestiges444 vestige遺跡。.”

[12] As the 20th-Century historian René Héron de Villefosse put it,thinking in particular of Haussmann’s transformation of the ?le de la Cité45西岱島，巴黎市中心塞納河中的兩座島嶼之一，也是巴黎城區的發源地，著名的巴黎圣母院和圣禮拜堂都位于該島。, “the old ship of Paris was torpedoed by Baron Haussmann and sunk during his reign.It was perhaps the greatest crime of the megalomaniac46megalomaniac妄自尊大的。prefect and also his biggest mistake… His work caused more damage than a hundred bombings.”

We’ll always have Paris

[13] When in 1944, as Allied forces marched to liberate the city and Adolf Hitler gave orders for the wholesale demolition of Paris, the German military governor Major General Dietrich von Choltitz refused to obey.Paris was simply too beautiful to violate. Napoleon Bonaparte, Napoleon III, Baron Haussmann and Le Corbusier had not shared such precious German sentimentality.

[14] Although bombastic47bombastic言過其實的；夸夸其談的。, Haussmann’s monumental plan remains impressive, not least because he achieved so much so quickly to such a high,uniform standard. A public administrator by training, Haussmann was a commanding figure who, although a talented musician, was no sentimentalist.He even demolished the house he was born in—55 rue de Faubourg-du-Roule48巴黎第八區下轄的區塊之一?！猟espite fond memories of childhood.

[15] Of his first meeting with Haussmann in 1853, Napoleon III noted, “I had in front of me one of the most extraordinary men of our time;big, strong, vigorous, energetic, and at the same time clever and devious49devious不誠實的。,with a spirit full of resources.” The partnership between the ambitious French emperor and his vigorous prefect was a truly remarkable one.Within a year of Haussmann’s dismissal for overspending, however, Napoleon III had fallen after France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War50普法戰爭（1870—1871），普魯士王國（德意志帝國）同法蘭西第二帝國之間的戰爭，這次戰爭使普魯士（德國）完成德意志統一。. Released from a newly uni fi ed Germany, he went into exile at Chislehurst, Kent where he died in 1873.

[16] After his dismissal, Haussmann was elected Bonapartist deputy for Ajaccio, Corsica, birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. He found time to write three volumes of self-serving51self-serving自我吹噓的。memoirs. These might be largely unread today, yet his memory lives on powerfully today in the new Paris he shaped—and in cities like Barcelona that followed his lead—if not in the narrow, but much-loved streets of the Marais. ■

世紀時，喬治-尤金·奧斯曼對法國首都做了全新設計和徹底改建。本文作者喬納森·格蘭西講述了今日巴黎的誕生過程。

巴黎一直是世界上最受游客青睞的城市，每年幾千萬的游客慕名來到以布局緊湊而著稱的巴黎市中心，對他們來說，瑪黑區有種磁石般的吸引力。這片散發刺鼻氣味的街區窄巷遍布，舊宅古院無序錯落，在“太陽王”路易十四把宮廷從凡爾賽遷過來之前，這里曾是貴族們眼中的時髦之地。之后，這里卻逐漸敗落，在幾百年的時間里變得愈發臟亂，直到最近幾十年才重新煥發光彩，像一座誘人的迷宮，聚集著時裝店、咖啡館、餐廳、博物館和畫廊。

[2]走在這些熱鬧討喜的中世紀街道上，很難相信曾有人視其為眼中釘，急欲拆之而后快——得多說一句,要這么做的可不是德國軍隊，盡管在1870到1945年間，他們也曾多次對巴黎有過非常不合理的規劃。是的，正是法國皇帝拿破侖三世和當時的塞納省省長、125年前離世的喬治-尤金·奧斯曼，盯上了瑪黑區這樣的地方。

[3]不過，1853年，瑪黑區也和巴黎大部分地方一樣臭氣熏天，當時，拿破侖三世下令奧斯曼按照干凈整潔、氣派典雅的方針重建這座氣味難聞的城市。整個城市的中世紀街巷都要被夷為平地，由現代化的林蔭大道取而代之。奧斯曼曾在《回憶錄》里自豪地寫道：“巴黎由內而外煥然一新。”

毀滅者

[4]奧斯曼，這位毫無建筑和城市規劃專業背景的地方行政長官，將巴黎變成了一個大工地，施工時間長達20年之久。因為經費超支，皇帝受到的指責越來越多，1870年，奧斯曼被迫離職，然而依照他的方案所進行的改造卻一直持續到了1920年代后期。

[5]改造方案的設計和執行分為三個階段，包括拆除19,730棟舊建筑和新建34,000棟大樓。原本的小街巷變成了又長又寬的林蔭大道，道路兩旁矗立著一座座排列有序、間距開闊的新古典主義公寓樓，外立面砌著奶油色石頭。

[6]除了霸氣的林蔭大道，奧斯曼還規劃建設了大型廣場、以倫敦海德公園為原型的城市公園、完善的下水道系統、能大量供應淡水的人工水道和為道路和建筑提供照明的地下煤氣管網，以及精致的噴泉和豪華的公廁，另外新種了一排排樹木。

[7]與這些城市基礎設施相呼應的是引人注目的新火車站——巴黎北站和巴黎東站、富麗堂皇的巴黎歌劇院、新學校、教堂和24座城市廣場，還有夏特萊廣場上的兩座恢宏的劇院、鋼鐵框架結構的大型中央菜市場（被愛彌爾·左拉稱為“巴黎之腹”），以及12條大道構成的壯觀路網，由奧斯曼星形廣場中心的凱旋門向四面輻射而出。

[8]自從更名為戴高樂廣場，星形廣場就成了每個國外駕駛者的噩夢。環繞著拿破侖·波拿巴為紀念戰爭勝利而修建的凱旋門，車輛同時從12個方向疾馳而來，你既要試著融入車流中，又要想方設法順利通過。

推倒，一切重新開始

[9]從來沒有哪個大城市在和平時期經歷過如此徹底的改造。大量的技工和非技工，以及建筑師、工程師和景觀園藝師，參與了這場改造。這使被霍亂和斑疹傷寒困擾了幾十年之久的巴黎重現勃勃生機。各個階層的巴黎人也都有了可以休閑娛樂的公園。

[10]理論上來說，一旦發生街壘戰、暴動或其他騷亂，維持公共秩序的政府軍隊可以在寬闊的林蔭大道上暢行無阻。而且，當時城市面積擴大了一倍，人口數量增加了兩倍，正因為有了這些大道，巴黎才像一個和諧的整體，呈現出一派資產階級欣欣向榮的景象。

[11]仍有些不可思議的是，好像只是皇帝和他的塞納省省長奧斯曼一時興起，巴黎那么多地方便被拆除重建。但實際上，拿破侖三世是在繼續他叔叔拿破侖·波拿巴的事業。后者對巴黎有著同樣宏大的設想?；F盧一役后在圣赫勒拿島上流放時，他曾寫過：“如果上天能讓我再多統治20年并有那么一點閑暇時間，人們將再也找不到原先的巴黎，除了遺跡什么也不會留下。”

[12]像20世紀歷史學家勒內·埃龍·德維爾福斯在評價奧斯曼對西岱島的改造時所說：“巴黎這艘歷史悠久的航船被奧斯曼男爵在其任內用魚雷炸沉了?；蛟S這是這位狂妄自大的行政長官犯下的最大的罪行和錯誤……他造成的破壞一百次轟炸也比不了。”

巴黎永存

[13] 1944年，同盟軍前來解放巴黎，阿道夫·希特勒下令炸毀整個城市，德軍統領迪特里希·馮肖爾蒂茨少將拒絕了該命令。巴黎那么美怎能被破壞。德國人身上這種難得的感性，拿破侖·波拿巴、拿破侖三世、奧斯曼男爵和勒·柯布西耶都不具備。

[14]盡管有些夸大，奧斯曼里程碑式的規劃仍舊令人驚嘆，一個重要的原因就在于他在如此短的時間里按照統一的高標準，完成了如此多的工作。作為科班出身的行政長官，奧斯曼是個強勢人物，雖然還是個頗有天賦的音樂家，卻從不會感情用事。他甚至連自己出生時的房子也拆掉了，盡管這棟位于福布爾杜魯萊區55號大街的房子承載了他兒時美好的回憶。

[15] 1853年拿破侖三世第一次見到奧斯曼時就意識到：“我面前的這個人是這個時代最杰出的人物之一，高大強壯、活力十足、精力充沛，同時又精明、狡猾且足智多謀?！边@位野心勃勃的法國君主和他精力旺盛的行政長官之間的合作確實不同凡響。奧斯曼因為超支被撤職還不到一年，拿破侖三世便因為法國在普法戰爭中失利而倒臺，直到德國統一后才被釋放，之后便流亡于英國肯特郡的奇斯爾赫斯特，1873年在此地離世。

[16]被撤職后，奧斯曼當選為科西嘉阿雅克肖地區的波拿巴主義代表，這里也是拿破侖·波拿巴的出生地。他花時間寫了三卷回憶錄聊以自慰。如今這些回憶錄基本上無人問津，然而他留下的印記，盡管在瑪黑區深受喜愛的羊腸小道上找不到，但在他親手打造的新巴黎——以及效法而建的巴塞羅那等城市——卻一直深深銘刻，始終不滅。 □

（譯者曾獲第五屆“《英語世界》杯”翻譯大賽優秀獎）

The Man Who Created Paris

ByJonathan Glancey