粵菜新“潮”

粵菜新“潮”

廣東地處亞熱帶，四季常青，物產富饒，這使得廣東的飲食得天獨厚。做法精致、食材新鮮、口味清淡都是廣東菜的特點。其中潮州菜更備受美食家推崇 ，在中國美食界地位卓然。

在不同食客的心里，潮州菜的面貌可能截然不同，有可能是一頓熱氣騰騰的牛肉火鍋，有可能是一盤香味四溢的鹵鵝頭，有可能是一場酣暢淋漓的“打冷”宵夜……《舌尖上的中國》美食顧問、汕頭市美食學會主席張新民在應邀參加“重新發現中國味·巡旅”系列活動時接受筆者采訪時指出：“潮州菜在食客心目中出現這些不同的面貌和觀感，只是整個菜系中不同流派的分支的區別，同時也是中國社會經濟文化演進過程中人們在飲食需求上改變的結果。”在上世紀80年代，經濟實惠的潮州“打冷”從港澳地區回流進入廣州等城市飲食市場，而到了上世紀末本世紀初，中國經濟高速發展，人們物質生活需求提高，潮州菜則開始表現出豪華精細的一面……但說到底，潮州筵席才是潮州菜的精華。

潮俗常用“食十二菜桌”來形容潮州筵席的豐盛程度，且十二菜中以硬菜為主，鵝肝、花膠、鮑魚、龍蝦等高端食材盡攬，做法有生腌、白灼、魚飯、鹵制等，看似極簡，卻又心思滿滿，即便所用到的調味料、配菜、火候等都必有說法。比如一道白灼香螺，最后上盤時一定要浸潤在用心熬制的雞湯中，此舉是為了讓響螺的清鮮甘甜愈發明顯。而野生紫菜螺頭湯里的紫菜，必須要烘烤過的，皆因經過烘烤方能讓紫菜的細胞壁自然破裂，迷人的香氣一躥而出。打冷中的魚飯，新鮮魚肉是冰鎮后直接上桌的，多吃幾口難免會發膩，此時沾上些許普寧豆醬，發酵過的醬料會優雅地襯托魚肉的清甜彈牙，給予魚飯更絕美的味蕾誘惑。

潮州筵席中，通常還會有酒加持。早在上世紀80年代，使用洋酒佐餐的風潮便開始在潮汕餐桌上盛行，成為給潮州菜增色的神來之筆。這股風潮在世界名酒廣泛進入中國飲食消費市場的近十年中愈演愈烈，很多老饕在撰寫自己的美食心得時，都會針對各式潮汕名菜給出不同的洋酒配搭。這種組合隨著美食家味蕾的進化，從最早期的紅白葡萄酒，換成了名品干邑，搭配愈加豐富，品類細分更精確，向高品質國際化方向演進。也正是這一趨勢吸引了“重新發現中國味·巡旅”來到汕頭，開啟一段帶有實驗性和探索性的美食文化之旅。

Chaozhou beef hotpot潮州牛肉火鍋

Chaozhou beef hotpot is very particular about the quality of the fresh beef. The cow has to be freshly slaughtered and butchered, so restaurants are usually located near the abattoir. Cutting techniques are greatly valued. The beef should be hand-sliced into exactly the right thickness. The thinner slices are silky and smooth, while the thicker slices are chewy and satisfying, “to please your throat,” as they call it.

Iced red crab凍紅蟹

The iced red crab is one of the must-order dishes of Chaozhou cuisine. Red crabs are a local specialty in Shanwei. The red crabs are steamed, and then iced before being tasted. Red vinegar and Puningmade bean sauce can bring out the mellow fl avour and the popping texture.

Spiced goose鹵鵝

In Chaoshan there's a fi ne-breed of goose called “Lion Head”. Spiced goose dates back a long way in Chaoshan. In the past, every household would cook the dish at home: boiled with spices, cooled, sliced into thick pieces, covered with spiced sauce and Chinese parsley, and completed with vinegar-soaked mashed garlic.

Ark shell血蚶

The ark shell was called “shell coins” for the tinkling sound it makes when shells are rubbed against each other. In Chaoshan there's a saying that the more ark shells you eat, the richer you can become. There're two popular ways of cooking ark shells. Scald them in boiling water and eat with sauce, or preserve them with salt and soybean sauce into instant food.

Chaozhou-style cold dish潮式“打冷”

Chaozhou-style cold dish “Da Lang” is a traditional Chaoshan dish made by steaming and cooling all kinds of seafood in natural air. The cooled seafood usually goes with garlic oil or bean sauce, which can bring out the unique freshness of the fi sh. It is said that this kind of cold dish was created by Chaoshan fi shermen by coincidence, but became quite popular and was carried down through generations.

The door to this church in Cartagena is so big that it makes an adult look like a child.卡塔赫納教堂大門與紅衣女子。