天下泉城，泉水之城

文／郄汝娟

“齊多甘泉，冠于天下。”山東省會濟南因獨特的地形地質構造，孕育出城中700余處天然涌泉，讓這座依山傍水、泉湖兼美的老城獲得了“天下泉城”的美譽。

濟南人常常把“七十二名泉”掛在嘴邊，實際上，城中及周圍的泉眼多達百處，這些泉水共同組成了趵突泉、黑虎泉、珍珠泉、五龍潭、百脈泉等五大泉群。豐富的水資源使得濟南老城與泉、河、湖融為一體，相依相生，形成了獨特的泉水水域風光。

○濟南環城公園。圖／鄭曙光Jinan City-circling Park

○“天下第一泉”——濟南趵突泉。圖／李超Jinan Baotu Spring is honored as the “No. 1 Spring under Heaven”

最有名的當屬“天下第一泉”的趵突泉。從車水馬龍的大街上，步入悠然靜謐的趵突泉公園，臨泉觀望，庭院幽深。在趵突泉附近，散布著金線泉、洗缽泉、柳絮泉等30多個名泉，構成了趵突泉泉群。趵突泉公園內更有漱玉泉及中國古代著名詩詞大家李清照紀念堂。位于趵突泉公園東部的漱玉泉，是濟南七十二名泉之一，泉名由“漱石枕流”一詞演化而來。相傳李清照常于泉邊填詞吟詩，掬水梳妝，其作品《漱玉集》即因此泉而命名。

趵突泉公園北門，一路之隔，便是五龍潭。五龍潭公園內，散布著形態各異的26處古名泉，構成濟南四大泉群的五龍潭泉群。地下泉水溢出流淌在池邊的石板路上，潭里游動著各色錦鯉，讓這里成為孩子們夏日最愛的地方。暑熱被潑灑的泉水阻隔，孩子們盡情享受玩水之樂。

由趵突泉公園東門橫穿泉城廣場，便來到黑虎泉邊。泉水由三個虎頭處噴涌而出，黑虎泉邊，取用泉水的市民四季不斷，它和附近的琵琶泉、白石泉等組成了一個泉群。

夏夜，泉水邊是納涼的好去處，泉聲潺潺沖刷城市夜空的喧囂躁動，讓人不禁沉靜下來。住在附近的市民常來此處，茶余飯后，來此間閑庭信步或安適靜坐，一手搖著蒲扇一手拎著水瓶，瓶里盛著泉水泡的茶。即使沒帶水壺也不要緊，街邊掛著招幌處有售賣的大碗茶，是直接從黑虎泉里汲出的泉水沏成。

除了泉水，城北的大明湖也是必去的景點。大明湖名勝眾多，主要景點及名勝有歷下亭、鐵公祠、北極閣、遐園、匯泉寺、百花洲等。在中國古代，許多王朝都在此增建亭臺樓閣，植柳種荷，形成“四面荷花三面柳，一城山色半城湖”的秀麗景色。中國歷代文學名士如李白、杜甫、曾鞏、蘇軾、蒲松齡等都曾徜徉于此并留下著名詩篇。

大明湖南側，步行商業街泉城路向北，鋪陳著芙蓉街、曲水亭街、鞭指巷等老街，這是濟南泉水最集中的所在。來濟南看泉，一定要到老巷民居里走一走，才能體會“家家泉水，戶戶垂楊”的神韻與風采。

○泉水人家。圖／王海夢Households beside the spring water

修繕保護下的老城街道，還保有老濟南的風貌。沿著一條老街，走在不算寬闊的胡同里，高大的門樓，厚重的院墻后面，傳統的四合院里，那些上了年紀的老屋，通常還住著一些滄桑的老人，你或許也能體會到超脫塵世的靜謐與安然。

泉水，賦予了濟南靈魂，讓這座城市更靈動更有魅力，吸引著五湖四海、天南海北的來客來這里扎根，融于這片土地。濟南，與泉水同生共盛，是泉水見證了這座城池數千年的萬物興替。

夏日漸熱，在泉水邊的涼亭稍坐片刻，取水烹茶，討一碗新取出的甘甜，品味老城的悠閑豁然。與泉水有關的日子，才是濟南人的日子。靠近泉水，就能摸得到這座城市的脈動。

編輯／王雪芃

○美好時光。圖／林志輝Happy time

“Shandong abounds in springs which are the best on earth.” As the capital of Shandong province,Jinan has more than 700 natural springs due to its unique terrain and geological structures. These springs earn the title of “Spring City on Earth” for this old city surrounded by mountains and waters.

People in Jinan often talk about the “72 famous springs”, but actually there are more than 100 springs inside the city and around, making up five spring clusters: Baotu Spring(Spouting Spring), Heihu Spring (Black Tiger Spring), Zhenzhu Spring (Pearl Spring), Wulong Pool (Five Dragon Pool) and Baimai Spring. The rich water resources of springs, rivers and lakes are integrated with the old quarter of Jinan city, constituting the unique spring landscapes.

Among all the springs in Jinan, the most famous one is Baotu Spring which is known as “The First Spring in the World”.Walking into the quiet Baotu Spring Park from the busy streets and looking around the springs, you can enjoy the deep quiet courtyards inside the park.Scattered around Baotu Spring are over 30 springs such as Jinxian Spring, Xibo Spring and Liuxu Spring which constitute the spring cluster of Baotu Spring. Inside the park there is also Shuyu Spring and the Memorial Hall to Li Qingzhao, a great poet in ancient China. Located in the eastern part of the park, Shuyu Spring is one of the 72 famous springs and its name comes from a Chinese expression meaning “living a hermit life”. It is said that Li Qingzhao liked composing poems near Shuyu Spring and often washed her face with water from it. One of her works Collection of Shuyu was named after Shuyu Spring.

○大明湖。圖／張仁玉Daming Lake

○章丘百脈泉。圖／王亮朝Baimai Springs in Zhangqiu

From the north gate of Baotu Spring Park and across a road is Wulong Pool.Scattered inside the Park of Wulong Pool are 26 ancient springs which make up the spring cluster of Wulong Spring,one of the five spring clusters in Jinan.With water overflowing onto the flagstones near the Pool, and colorful fancy carp swimming in the Pool, the Park of Wulong Pool is the children’s favorite place in summer. With heat alleviated by splashing spring water, children enjoy themselves with water in the park.

Out of the east gate of Baotu Spring Park and across the Spring City Square is Heihu Spring, which is also known as Black Tiger Spring. Citizens in Jinan love to get water from the Spring where the spring water spurts out from three tiger heads. Heihu Spring and adjacent the Pipa Spring as well as Baishi Spring make up the spring cluster of Heihu Spring.

The springs are the best place to enjoy the cool of a summer night. The babbling springs can help people become serene on a noisy city night. Citizens living nearby like to stroll idly in a courtyard or sit quietly at their leisure,with cattail leaf fan in one hand and a bottle of tea made from spring water in the other. It does not matter if you do not take your bottle with you, for there is stall tea on sale along the streets which is also made from water from Heihu Spring.

Besides the springs, Daming Lake in the northern part of Jinan is also a place you should go to. There are multitudes of scenic spots and places of interest at Daming Lake, with the major ones including Lixia Pavilion, Tie Xuan Memorial Temple, Beiji Tower, Xiayuan Garden, Huiquan Temple, and Baihua Lake. With numerous pavilions, terraces and towers built and many willows and lotus planted in many dynasties in ancient times, Jinan is known for its beautiful scenery of “a city of mountains and lakes with willows on three sides and lotus on four sides”. Many men of letters in different dynasties such as Li Bai, Du Fu, Zeng Gu, Su Shi and Pu Songling composed famous poems while strolling in beautiful Jinan.

On the southern side of Daming Lake and north of the Quancheng Road section of the pedestrian mall, are some ancient streets such as Furong Street, Qushuiting Street and Bianzhi Lane, where most springs in Jinan are concentrated. To see springs in Jinan, you must walk along these ancient streets where you can experience the charm of “springs and willows in every household”.

Under protection and renovation,the streets in the old quarter of the city still retain the appearance of old Jinan. Walking on a narrow lane along the old street, one can see high gate towers and massive walls, behind which are traditional quadrangle courtyards,usually homes to some elderly men and women. Perhaps, at this time you can feel the peace and tranquil life detached from the outside world.

Springs endow Jinan with the soul that renders her more vigorous and charming, attracting people from all corners of the world to settle here. It is the springs that have witnessed this city’s vicissitudes over thousands of years.

With the approach of summer,please come to the pavilions for a rest near springs, where you can make tea with spring water or just ask for a bowl of it to experience the leisure of this old city. For people in Jinan, only life related to springs can be called life, or a life that is worth living in Jinan. You can feel the city’s impulse once you come near the springs.