《梓人遺制》所載“羅機子”結構再研究

蔡欣 單珊珊 陳曉風 薛梅梅 朱小行

摘要： 《梓人遺制》是目前有關“羅機子”的唯一直接文獻，狄特·庫恩等學者曾深入分析機構，文章從庫恩研究的未盡之處切入，旨在破解機構配合問題，為復原織羅技藝提供理論基礎。采用文獻研究法、觀察法、個案研究法、對比研究法，綜合文獻、圖像、考古發現、民間遺存等多重證據，論證羅機結構與構件功能，并立足紡織技藝視角，結合織機和織物展開探討。研究結果顯示“大泛扇椿子”為平綜柱、“小扇椿子”為絞綜柱，以單經軸無筘為特征的“羅機子”只能配以斫刀和紋桿用于織無固定絞組的羅，“鴉兒”等構件數量須視具體織物而定，以織制四經絞素羅情況為例圖釋各機構配合情狀。

關鍵詞： 《梓人遺制》;紡織技藝;織羅;羅機子;結構

中圖分類號： TS103.1;K875.1 ?文獻標志碼： A ?文章編號： 1001-7003（2019）06-0105-09 ?引用頁碼： 061304

Abstract： Practice of Carpentry is the only direct literature on Luo-ji-zi， so Dieter Kuhn and other scholars analyzed the structure of the loom deeply. This study started from the matters which were not covered in the Dieter Kuhns research to solve mechanism coordination problem and provide theoretical basis for restoring gauze weaving skills. This paper demonstrated mechanical structure of Luo-ji-zi and its components functions with literature research method， observation method， case study method and comparative study method， based on literatures， images， archaeological discoveries， folk remaining relics and other multiple evidences. The relationship between fabrics and the loom was explored from the perspective of textile technology. Research findings show that Da-Fan-Shan-Chun-Zi and Xiao-Shan-Chun-Zi are the pillar of fixed heddle and doup heddle respectively. Luo-ji-zi which is characterized by single beam and no reed is just used for compound gauze weaving with beater knife and pattern rod as auxiliary parts. The quantity of parts as “Ya-er” depends on specific fabrics. Coordination of various mechanism of Luo-ji-zi was explained by an illustration of four-end-twisted gauze weaving.

Key words： Practice of Carpentry; textile technology; gauze weaving; Luo-ji-zi; structure

紡織史學家王予 予曾說織羅是中國紡織史研究課題中一個還有故事未講清的問題[1]。從織物組織結構角度看，被稱作“羅”的織物一直在變化。漢唐的“羅”帶有相對固定椒狀（卵形）孔眼的絞經結構[2]2，環環相扣不可分割，具有特殊的針織外觀效應[3];明代以后的“羅”為表面有橫向或縱向空路條紋的絞經織物[2]2，與今天的杭羅相似;現行組織結構學對“羅”組織的定義應是沿襲明代以后的名稱而來[4]。王予 予特別重視的“大孔羅”，早在商代婦好墓出土青銅器上已有印痕[5]，類似兩宋時期的大類絲織產品四經絞羅。這類羅無固定絞組，以四經絞素織物最為常見，曾流行于10—13世紀，蒙元之后偶有所聞，因其織造工藝復雜神秘已難覓其蹤?！?br>