南通色織土布蘆扉花布機織復原數據分析和研究

邵卓爾 張毅

摘要： 蘆扉花布是國家級非物質文化遺產項目——“南通色織土布”中最經典的品種，體現了織造藝人的看家本領。文章通過實地調研、文獻查詢、數據分析等方法，收集、整理了大量南通色織土布蘆扉花布的布樣與圖片。從織造工藝和織物分析的角度對傳統蘆扉花布和新式蘆扉花布進行分析對比，可以發現兩種蘆扉花的織造工藝流程和織造各項參數相差并不大，影響其圖案的關鍵是織物組織和色紗排列的巧妙配合。通過分析與試織等方法得出結論，為南通色織土布蘆扉花布的傳承與發展提供了理論依據，同時對土布的批量生產和創新有一定的借鑒意義。

關鍵詞： 南通色織土布;蘆扉花布;工藝流程;織物分析;機織復原

中圖分類號： TS105.1;J523.1 ?文獻標志碼： B ?文章編號： 1001-7003（2019）04-0063-09 ?引用頁碼： 041202

Abstract： The cloth with reed flower patterns is the most classic variety in national-level intangible cultural heritage project： “Nantong Yarn-dyed Weaving Homespun”， and it reflects the special skill of the weaving artist. By means of field investigation， literature searches， data analysis and other methods， a lot of fabric samples and pictures of Nantong yarn-dyed weaving homespun with reed flower patterns were collected and collated. By comparing traditional cloth with reed flower patterns and modern cloth with reed flower patterns from the perspectives of weaving process and fabric analysis， it was found that there was almost no difference in weaving process and various parameters between two kinds of cloth with reed flower patterns， and the key which influenced the patterns was ingenious cooperation of textile tissue and colored yarn arrangement. Through analysis and test weaving， the conclusion was drawn to provide theoretical basis for the inheritance and development of Nantong yarn-dyed weaving homespun with reed flower patterns. At the same time， it has some reference significance for volume production and innovation of cloth with reed flower patterns.

Key words： Nantong yarn-dyed homespun; cloth with reed flower patterns; technological process; fabric analysis; weaving recovery

南通色織土布源于江南土布，隨著江南移民的遷徙在南通落地生根，延綿傳承數百年，形成了獨有的風格[1]。20世紀80年代，紡織工業大生產代替了傳統手工織造，南通色織土布逐漸淡出人們的視線。如今，老一輩藝人年事已高，這項技藝流傳至今鮮有文字記載，對南通色織土布的研究與傳承迫在眉睫。本文以南通色織土布經典品種——蘆扉花布為例，查閱文獻資料，走訪南通老藝人，收集大量的布樣與圖片，對其織造工藝進行研究分析，并使用現代紡織工具進行復原試織，以期傳統技藝可以融入現代生活，得到更好的傳承與發展。

1 蘆扉花布的工藝分析

蘆扉花布雖然看似是簡單方格循環，但織造工藝卻別具匠心，是南通當地勞動人民智慧的結晶。……