一個南宋廚娘的美食APP

西窗

南宋杭州一帶，有“不重生男重生女”的風俗。女兒是潛力股，如果她們擅廚藝，人生即可開掛：皇宮的御廚要廚娘，富貴人家的私廚要廚娘，市井酒店的大廚也要廚娘;如果顏值高，色藝俱佳，身價更是不菲：“非極富家不可用。”

古時把女性為家人烹飪稱為“主中饋”，聽著像某個官名。事實上，在古代，供膳諸事是家政，被納入女性美德評價系統(tǒng)里。永康人陳亮寫的《凌夫人何氏墓志銘》：“家政出于舅姑，而輔其內事惟謹，房戶細碎，無不整辦?！?/p>

宋代才女量多而質優(yōu)，除了書房，廚房也是宋代女性展露才華的重要陣地?！秴鞘现叙佷洝繁闶浅鲎?00年前南宋金華的吳氏之手。這本記錄金華主流菜系的古菜譜堪稱是南宋美食APP。

中饋打造“家的味道”

2018年熱播劇《知否》提到中饋這詞：“吾傾慕汝已久，愿聘汝為婦，托付中饋，衍嗣綿延，終老一生！”中饋指婦女在家中主持飲食等事。

號稱江南第一家的浙江浦江鄭宅鎮(zhèn)鄭氏義門有《鄭氏家范》，里面規(guī)定：“諸婦主饋，十日一輪，年至六十者免之。新娶之婦，與假三月，三月之外，即當主饋?！逼纸嵙x門這個龐大的共食家族，前后綿延240年之久，女性的中饋作出了很大貢獻。

風雅的宋人活得精致，愛美、好吃、喜設宴，廚師是剛需。

南宋杭州一帶，有“不重生男重生女”的風俗。女兒是潛力股，如果她們擅廚藝，人生即可開掛：皇宮的御廚要廚娘，富貴人家的私廚要廚娘，市井酒店的大廚也要廚娘，如果顏值高，色藝俱佳，身價更是不菲：“非極富家不可用”。

女廚的手藝自然相當了得。

有一位尼姑能以瓜蔬等素食材，用炸膾脯腌醬等烹飪手法，拼出一幅王維的《輞川圖》，有山川流水，亭臺樓榭，令人嘆為觀止。這位尼姑因此而留名：梵正。

宋五嫂也因一碗魚羹，和西湖一起名聞天下。

正是一代一代“主中饋”的婦女兢兢業(yè)業(yè)，才打造出中華民族獨一無二的“家的味道”，才有了博大精深的烹飪文化。

菜譜流露廚娘的小心思

金華吳氏的身世、事跡已不可考。20世紀80年代，有人提出她是浦江人。

吳氏，不是御廚，也不是臨安某個官宦家的私家廚娘，只是小縣城一枚普通的家庭婦女，居然將一千年前的人間風味用文字神奇地保留了下來。

要說菜譜，《吳氏中饋錄》不是最早的，北魏崔浩的《食經》早就系統(tǒng)論述了烹飪技藝，但崔浩只是記錄他母親的烹飪心得。所以真正由女性來書寫的菜譜，吳氏的“中饋錄”排第一。《吳氏中饋錄》既無序也無跋，仿佛不是為了寫書而寫書，就是隨手記下，被有心人收錄于其他書籍留傳了下來。

我們不妨想象，她曾經是唐朝詩人王建筆下的《新嫁娘》：“三日入廚下，洗手作羹湯。未諳姑食性，先遣小姑嘗。”婚后三日，新娘子該露一手了。她做了道羹湯，也不知道合不合婆婆還有婆家其他女眷的口味，先請小姑子嘗一嘗吧。

新娘不斷鉆研廚藝，她知道，只有在廚房站穩(wěn)了，才能贏得家人的尊敬和日后在家中的地位。

新娘很快成為廚房小能手，當然這時的她已晉級為孩子他娘。

想起新婚三日的忐忑，今天她要放大招——做一道“洗手蟹”，也叫“蟹生”，即涼拌生吃的螃蟹。

只看她將生蟹剁碎，用麻油先熬熟，放冷，草果、茴香、砂仁、花椒末、水姜、胡椒俱為末，再加蔥、鹽、醋共十味，入蟹內拌勻……她已駕輕就熟，一套動作行云流水。

家人齊齊點贊，有人提議，為什么不把做菜心得寫下來呢。用現(xiàn)代的話說就是，要么做美食主婦，要么當美食主播。

于是就有了《吳氏中饋錄》。

這是中國古代一個尋常女人的成長過程。她面目模糊卻安詳，圍著鍋臺安靜地表達自己，心思從指間到舌尖，不肯稍加敷衍，怎么做既好吃又養(yǎng)人，還能吃出新鮮的味道，因為有心思在，所以有見地在。

料理折射南宋百姓生活

《吳氏中饋錄》分脯鲊、制蔬、甜食三部分，菜譜計70余款，采用炙、腌、炒、煮、焙、蒸、醬、醉、曬等十多種烹飪方法，都是當時地道的家常菜。名震江湖的金華酥餅，始見于哪里？甜食一詞最早出現(xiàn)在哪？醬油一詞最早出現(xiàn)在哪？粽子是甜的還是咸的？想做川菜沒有辣椒怎么辦？想吃甜點怎么做？《吳氏中饋錄》都會告訴你。

沒有濾鏡、沒有包裝、沒有高級廚具，只是詳細地告訴你這道菜的每個步驟，字句簡明，配方精準到“炒鹽三兩、茴香一錢”，與南宋晚期林洪的《山家清供》完全兩種風格。林洪畢竟是正兒八經的文人，通篇穿插文學掌故和私人感受，尤其愛給平常的食物冠上別致也略顯矯情的美名，什么“碧澗羹”“脆瑯玕”等等。而《吳氏中饋錄》就樸實多了，毫無裝飾，取名原則遵守“原料”加“做法”，比如蒸鰣魚，就是清蒸一條鰣魚，糟茄子，十有八九是酒糟腌漬的茄瓜。

了解一個城市，要去菜市場;了解一個朝代，就要去看這個時代的菜肴。飲食是進入另一個世界的很好的媒介。不用夢回大宋了，不煩讀程朱，只要下廚房，照著吳氏的菜譜，你就獲得沉浸式體驗，體驗到宋朝市井文化之繁榮，以及普通百姓家的日常生活格調。食，不簡簡單單是一個菜，而是一種文化的傳承，因著這些食物，因著這種中國味道，與歷史、與祖先有了穿越般的勾連，你能感覺到味道傳承中的血脈相通。

那盤“蟹生”至今仍活在百姓的餐桌上，蒸鰣魚不去鱗的做法也被江浙廚師所遵循，那些腌漬手法已是浦江家庭主婦的必備技能。

如果有心，可以把《吳氏中饋錄》里的70道菜還原一遍，那將會是一種怎樣的體驗呢？

（圖片提供：視覺中國）

A Cook Book by Woman of Southern Song Dynasty

By Xi Chuang

was authored by a woman surnamed Wu who lived in Jinhua about 800 years ago in the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279）. In traditional Chinese culture， women were housekeepers and had a say in family affairs. There were many educated women in the Southern Song Dynasty. They wrote poems and they wrote books and many of them were excellent cooks. According to ancient books， a nun in the Southern Song made a cold dish composed of various ingredients and the cold dish was made into a replica of a painting by Wang Wei， a famed Tang poet. The stunt dish was considered a masterpiece and the nuns name Fanzheng comes down in history. Sister-in-Law Songs Fish Soup， an 800-year-old delicacy in Hangzhou cuisine， still enjoys its legendary popularity today. Tourists come to Hangzhou and one of the must-eat local delicacies is this soup. The recipe was invented by a woman.? is a perfect example of what these women of the Southern Song accomplished.

There is little known about this wonder woman surnamed Wu. In the 1980s， someone assumed she was from Pujiang， a county in Jinhua in central Zhejiang Province. The woman was by no means a chef in the imperial kitchen. Nor was she a hired chef working at a governors residence. She was a woman of an ordinary house. Her recipe book isnt the earliest cookbook in history. Cui Hao， a scholar in the Northern Wei （386-534）， wrote a cookbook that recorded his mothers recipes.? is the first of its kind written by a woman in Chinese history. It looks like a copy of a notebook without a foreword or afterword. One could imagine how the book was written. The cook herself didnt want to write such a cookbook. She just worked in the kitchen. Then gradually she became well known in her husbands family and then the fame spread among relatives and friends. Then one day someone suggested these recipes should be written out. Gradually， recipes accumulated and a book took form. Then copies were made and loved and passed on. And now we know there was such a wonder woman who cooked and created so many recipes about 800 years ago in Jinhua.

has about 70 recipes in three categories： meat and fish， vegetables， and desserts. More than 10 cooking and processing methods are recorded. All the recipes were common dishes back then.

The cookbook is pragmatic， straightforward and useful. Instructions in the recipes are accurate and clear and simple. The names of these recipes are straightforward. The composition of these recipe names follows two essential rules： how a dish is cooked and what is in the dish. For example， steamed hilsa herring， or wine-pickled eggplant.? is written in a style in sharp contrast with some cookbooks by scholar foodies in the Southern Song Dynasty. Some highly educated gourmets loved give highly fancy names to recipes. Reading the names of these recipes， a reader of today would often have the slightest idea of what the dish is and how it is cooked.

is more than a kitchen guide for a chef. The historical record gives people of today a glimpse into a lifestyle in a rural county capital about 800 years ago. From the book， we can know that some cooking skills are very much alive today. For example， chefs in Zhejiang steam hilsa herring without removing scales and many women in Pujiang are skillful cooks who process meat and fish in salt or soybean sauce in the traditional ways recorded in .