銅元局，新舊之間的掛念

劉曉娜

“重慶有很多大型立交橋、高樓，也有小巷子，就像個迷宮，把人物放在這里，就有一種逃不出這個地方的感覺。”正因如此，導演曾國祥將《少年的你》拍攝地放在重慶。

借助立體、魔幻的地形，《少年的你》得以呈現出青春期難以逃避的憂郁情緒。銅元局軌道交通站，便是這種表達的載體之一。

自《火鍋英雄》《少年的你》等電影在這里取景后，來打卡的年輕人便絡繹不絕。無論是跟著白百合的步伐“從天上來”，還是在易烊千璽的眼神中從地面仰視，銅元局總會給人一種高深莫測的孤寂感。

打卡的年輕人乘軌道交通來來去去，跟著扶梯上上下下，始終在立體空間里活動，卻鮮有人將腳步延伸到幾百米遠的一個平面——他們不知道，那里還有一個銅元局。

"Chongqing has many large overpasses， high-rise buildings and small alleys， just like a maze. If the characters are placed here， there may be a feeling of not being able to escape from this place." For this reason， director Zeng Guoxiang set Better Days in Chongqing.

With the help of three-dimensional and magical terrain， Better Days is able to present the inescapable melancholy emotions of people in adolescence. The rail transit station of Copper Cash Manufactory is one of the carriers of this expression.

Since films such as Chongqing Hotpot and Better Days were filmed here， this area has been packed with young visitors. Whether it is with Bai Baihe’s pace "from the sky"， or with Jackson Yee’s eyes looking up from the ground， the Copper Cash Manufactory always gives people an enigmatic sense of loneliness.

Young people who traveling here come and go by rail transit， follow the escalator up and down， and always move in the threedimensional space. However， few people extend their footsteps to the place hundreds of meters away-they don’t know that there is also a Copper Cash Manufactory there.

穿越Pass Through

對攝影師來說，銅元局可以說是一處絕佳的山城取景地。蘇家壩立交橋與層層疊疊的銅元局軌道交通站，共同構成了鏡頭里的立體銅元局，蔚為壯觀。

銅元局街道下轄的10個社區，沿著山體立體分布，高差70多米的蘇家壩立交橋串聯起銅元局街道的上下半城。凡是坐出租車去融僑半島，司機都會先問一句“融僑上面還是下面？”一旦下錯一個口子，就意味著要多繞一大圈。

但蘇家壩立交橋在720度的盤旋之間，串聯的不僅是上半城和下半城，還有昨天和今天。

蘇家壩，本就是這塊江邊平地的原名，自清朝光緒年間在此設銅元局鑄幣以來，“銅元局”開始成名。不管是后來的“兵工署第二十工廠”還是“長江電工廠”，一個個大廠交替，都為這里增添著工業時代的烙印。

直到有一天，長江電工廠搬遷到了茶園，“蘇家壩”的名穿回到了新建的立交橋上，沒有了大廠的銅元局進入以樓盤命名的階段。

然而，這些樓盤的住戶即使入住已長達十余載，于他們而言，樓盤小區才是清晰定義身份和方位的坐標。

芭蕉灣社區算是例外，因為這里還保留著一片長江電工廠的家屬院。鄰里之間的關系，還可以用“他原來是某某車間的”來表述。

寬闊的南銅路貫穿銅元局，當來到芭蕉灣，兩側的街景截然不同：西側是嶄新的商品房小區，以及便利店、美容會所、網咖，而東側是老舊家屬院，和菜市場、老火鍋、剃頭店、煙攤、廢品回收點……

因為芭蕉灣，整個融僑半島片區的居民，或多或少都會在新舊兩個時空發生交集。

每天清晨，上半城的“買菜大軍”會坐著381路公交車一路搖搖晃晃來到芭蕉灣，在大田壩農貿市場買菜、割肉、殺魚；早晚高峰，擺渡的三輪車穿過老舊家屬區，在新建小區門口和銅元局輕軌站之間往來穿梭，接送著上班族；芭蕉灣社區對面，就是銅元局街道的社區衛生服務中心，不管是老街還是別墅洋房里出生的小孩，隔段時間都得匯集到此處挨上一針.....

尤其是夜幕降臨，從蘇家壩立交往下看，融僑半島林立的高樓之下，是一片熱鬧的夜市場景。銅元局的新與舊最終在色香味的盛宴中融為一體。

For photographers， the Copper Cash Manufactory can be an excellent mountain city for shooting. Sujiaba overpass and the rail transit station of Copper Cash Manufactory， which are stacked one upon another， together form the three-dimensional Copper Cash Manufactory in the camera， providing a magnificent spectacle.

Ten communities under the jurisdiction of Copper Cash Manufactory are distributed in three dimensions along the mountain， and Sujiaba overpass with a height difference of more than 70 meters connects the upper and lower half city of the Street of Copper Cash Manufactory. Whenever you take a taxi to Rongqiao Peninsula， the driver will first ask， "Do you go to the top or the bottom of Rongqiao？" Once you take a wrong intersection， it means you have to make a big circle.

However， Sujiaba overpass hovers at 720 degrees， connecting not only the upper half city and the lower half city， but also yesterday and today.

Sujiaba is the original name of this flat land along the river. It has become famous since the Copper Cash Manufactory was set up here during the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty. Whether it was the "20th Factory of the Military Industry Department" or the "Yangtze River Electric Factory"， the big factories added the mark of the industrial era to the area.

Until one day， the Changjiang Electric Power Factory moved to the Tea Garden， and the name of "Sujiaba" went back to the newly-built overpass. Without the big factory， the Copper Cash Manufactory entered the stage of naming after the buildings.

However， even though the residents of these buildings have been staying for more than ten years. For them， the real estate community is the coordinate that clearly defines the identity and orientation.

Bajiao Bay community is an exception， because there is still a relative’s courtyard of Changjiang Electric Power Factory. The relationship between neighbors can also be expressed by "he used to belong to one workshop".

The wide Nantong Road runs through the Copper Cash Manufactory. When you come to Bajiao Bay， the street scenes on both sides are completely different： on the west side， there are brand-new commercial housing community， convenience stores， beauty clubs and Internet cafes， while on the east side， there are old relative’s courtyard， vegetable market， old hot pot， barber shop， cigarette stall and waste recycling point...

Because of the Bajiao Bay， the residents of the entire Rongqiao Peninsula area will more or less intersect between the old and the new.

Every morning， the "food shopping army" in the first half of the city will take the No.381 bus and stagger all the way to Bajiao Bay to buy food， meat and fish at Datianba Farmers Market； In the morning and evening peaks， the ferry tricycle passes through the old relative’s courtyard and shuttles between the entrance of the newly-built community and the light rail station of Copper Cash Manufactory to pick up and drop off office workers； Opposite Bajiao Bay Community is the Community Health Service Center of Copper Cash Manufactory Street. Children born in old streets or villas and houses have to gather here every other time to take an injection...

Especially as night falls， looking down from Sujiabali Overpass， there is a lively scene of night market under the highrise buildings in Rongqiao Peninsula. The new and the old of the Copper Cash Manufactory are finally integrated in the feast of color， aroma and taste.

牽掛Solicitude

今年82歲的彭安滿老人，是長江電工廠的退休職工，也是廠區搬遷后第一批就地安置的退休職工，他把晚年時光也留在了銅元局。當我們向他打聽銅元局的變遷時，彭爺爺便滔滔不絕，一一歷數過去各個車間的位置所在。

他在這里工作生活了一輩子，對夏天那碗酸梅湯十分懷念：“我們廠里的酸梅湯遠近有名，喝不完的還拉到渝中區去賣……”

和那個年代所有的大廠一樣，長江電工廠也曾是一個小型社會，醫院、幼兒園、學校、球場、商店、理發店等一應俱全，不出銅元局便能滿足各種生活需要。

如今，銅元局徒留其名，大廠時代已成過去。但至少在芭蕉灣，百年來工業社會留下煙火氣還在，還有千絲萬縷的掛念在故事里流傳。

臨街“何剃頭”的老板何于蘭最近正在尋找新的門面——棚改讓人期待，也打亂了芭蕉灣的節奏。她的父親何貴全在銅元局剃了一輩子的頭，遠近有名，“何剃頭”既成了人名，也成了店名。

四年前，何貴全離開人世，何于蘭保留了這個店名，父親用過的剃刀、夾子、電吹風都被她收藏著，算是對父親和舊時光的懷念。

一個人在一塊土地生活一輩子，會留下什么？何剃頭已故四年，但銅元局還留著他的故事。當我們與何于蘭聊天時，進來一位拄著拐杖的老人，何于蘭稱他“秦伯伯”——何剃頭的老朋友秦世谷。

聽見我們在聊何剃頭，秦世谷便打開了話匣子：“我們是幾十年的好朋友，從我進廠起，他就在銅元局剃頭。”秦世谷二十幾歲進入長江電工廠，在科研所工作，今年已經84歲。他與何貴全因剃頭認識，成了一輩子的好朋友。縱使好朋友離世四年，秦世谷還是會每天到店里坐坐。

何于蘭比較鐘意街對面安置房樓下的門市，“不想搬遠了。”她沒說出的后半句，我猜應該是與人有關。銅元局不僅有相識一輩子的老熟客，還有父親一生的摯交——她若搬走了，秦伯伯到哪里去坐坐，又找誰去聊天呢？

Peng Anman， an 82-year-old man， is a retired worker of Changjiang Electric Power Factory and one of the first batch of retired workers to be resettled locally after the relocation of the factory. He also stayed in the Copper Cash Manufactory in his later years. When we asked him about the changes of the Copper Cash Manufactory， Grandpa Peng would then spoke eloquently where each workshop was located in the past.

He has worked and lived here all his life and missed the nostalgia of a bowl of sour plum soup in summer： "The sour plum soup in our factory was generally known far and near， and the rest would be sold to Yuzhong District..."

Like all the big factories in that era， Changjiang Electric Factory was once a small society， with hospitals， kindergartens， schools， stadiums， shops， barbershops and so on， which could meet all kinds of life needs without walking out from the Copper Cash Manufactory.

Today， the Copper Cash Manufactory is in name only， as the era of big factories has been over. However， at least in Bajiao Bay， the atmosphere that fills streets with the smell of grilled meats， makeshift lights and chatter left by the industrial society for a hundred years are still there， along with ever-lasting cares.

He Yulan， the boss of "He Titou" facing the street， is looking for a new store recently - the Shanty Town Reform， though something exciting to look forward to， disrupts the rhythm of Bajiao Bay. Her father He Guiquan has cut hair for others all his life in the Copper Cash Manufactory， and was famous far and near. "He Titou" later became both the name of him and his store.

Four years ago， He Guiquan passed away， and He Yulan kept the store name. Her father’s razors， clips and hair dryers were all collected by her， which was regarded as nostalgia for her father and the old days.

What will a person leave behind when he lives in a piece of land all his life？ He Titou has passed away for four years， but the Copper Cash Manufactory still keeps his story. When we were chatting with He Yulan， an old man with crutches came in. He Yulan called him "Uncle Qin" - Qin Shigu， an old friend of He Titou.

Hearing that we were talking about He Titou， Qin Shigu said that， "We have been good friends for decades. Since I entered the factory， he has cut hair for others in the Copper Cash Manufactory." Qin Shigu entered Changjiang Electric Power Factory in his twenties and worked in the scientific research institute. He is 84 years old this year. He and He Guiquan met because of a haircut and have become good friends for life. Even though his friend died four years ago， Qin Shigu would visit the store every day.

He Yulan is more interested in the store under the resettlement house across the street. "I don’t want to move far away." The second half of the sentence she didn’t say， I guess， should be related to the people. In the Copper Cash Manufactory， there are not only old and regular customers she has known for a lifetime， but also close friends of her father - if she moves away， where should Uncle Qin go and who should he talk to？