千年泡菜 東坡故里

文：《一帶一路報(bào)道》全媒體記者 雷怡安

位于眉山的中國(guó)泡菜博物館 Chinese Pickle Museum in Meishan

在四川省眉山市，有中國(guó)唯一一座以泡菜為主題的專業(yè)性博物館——中國(guó)泡菜博物館。博物館展館展陳面積達(dá)2000 平方米，由歷史與文化、生產(chǎn)與加工、傳承與創(chuàng)新、產(chǎn)品與品牌、品鑒與體驗(yàn)、展望未來等展區(qū)構(gòu)成。

乘車趕赴眉山，離眉山越近，腦海中浮現(xiàn)的問題越多，為什么眉山能擁有“國(guó)字號(hào)”泡菜博物館？泡菜產(chǎn)業(yè)為眉山帶來了哪些機(jī)遇？小泡菜怎樣走上國(guó)際大舞臺(tái)？來吧，一起走進(jìn)中國(guó)泡菜博物館，尋找答案吧！

千年東坡泡菜

眉山介于岷山與峨眉山之間，為江山秀氣所聚，山川形勝、生態(tài)宜居。優(yōu)越的生態(tài)環(huán)境孕育了豐富優(yōu)質(zhì)的蔬菜品種，加上傳承千年的工藝，以及眉山人對(duì)美食孜孜不倦的追求，成就了當(dāng)?shù)嘏莶说淖吭狡焚|(zhì)。

早在北宋年間，眉山美食代言人蘇東坡，就曾留下“三白飯”的佳話：一碗白飯、一碟白鹽、一碗白蘿卜。小小一碟蘿卜泡菜，伴隨了東坡清苦的求學(xué)時(shí)光，因此，眉山泡菜又被稱之為“東坡泡菜”。

如今，泡菜已經(jīng)成了眉山的名片，享有“中國(guó)泡菜看四川，四川泡菜看眉山”的美譽(yù)。眉山的老百姓家家戶戶都有祖?zhèn)鞯呐莶藟?，“萬物皆可泡”在眉山不再是一句玩笑話。

眉山人對(duì)泡菜的喜愛已經(jīng)在歷史長(zhǎng)河中淬煉為“泡菜文化”。泡菜博物館的對(duì)外開放，正是“泡菜文化”向外展示的一種最直觀的方式。

博物館里有一座長(zhǎng)27 米、高5 米的浮雕背景墻，繪著四川的好山好水好生活：岷山上的雪寶頂、奔涌千年的都江堰、沃野千里的成都平原，沿襲千年的泡菜腌制、習(xí)俗婚嫁、壩壩宴等人文風(fēng)俗，構(gòu)成了別具特色的“三千年泡菜，中國(guó)人味道”風(fēng)情畫卷。

博物館內(nèi)的八大展柜中，有兩個(gè)展示了蔬菜種植與泡菜的淵源。展柜中陳列著出土于成都金沙遺址的農(nóng)具——耜實(shí)物，1954 年在西安半坡遺址出土的“芥菜或白菜類種子”，以及1973 年在浙江余姚河姆渡新石器文化遺址出土的葫蘆皮、葫蘆籽等遠(yuǎn)古蔬菜種子。

另外六個(gè)展柜陳列著從商周時(shí)期至康熙年間的泡菜制作工具等實(shí)物，結(jié)合大量文字、文獻(xiàn)記錄，生動(dòng)再現(xiàn)了中國(guó)泡菜從種植到采摘，再到腌制的工藝，無不體現(xiàn)出國(guó)人的勤勞與創(chuàng)新精神。

當(dāng)泡菜成為產(chǎn)業(yè)

眉山泡菜創(chuàng)造了6 個(gè)“全國(guó)第一”：全國(guó)第一個(gè)泡菜產(chǎn)業(yè)園區(qū)、全國(guó)第一個(gè)國(guó)家級(jí)泡菜質(zhì)量監(jiān)督檢驗(yàn)中心、全國(guó)第一個(gè)泡菜產(chǎn)業(yè)技術(shù)研究院、全國(guó)第一個(gè)中國(guó)泡菜博物館、全國(guó)第一個(gè)泡菜行業(yè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)、全國(guó)第一個(gè)泡菜行業(yè)4A 級(jí)景區(qū)——“中國(guó)泡菜城”。

春日陽光下，“中國(guó)泡菜城”項(xiàng)目建設(shè)與招商正在熱火朝天地進(jìn)行中，海霸王食品有限公司就是其中一家。

“公司于2019 年11 月落戶眉山，2020 年3 月動(dòng)工建設(shè)，同年11 月便取得第一條生產(chǎn)線的生產(chǎn)許可。2021 年4 月，8 條生產(chǎn)線逐步投入生產(chǎn)?！焙０酝跏称酚邢薰緩S長(zhǎng)芮如桐介紹。作為速凍食品生產(chǎn)基地，該公司總投資10 億元，主要建設(shè)速凍食品、熟制品、調(diào)理食品等生產(chǎn)線，全自動(dòng)化冷凍庫，觀光工廠及火鍋泡菜體驗(yàn)配套區(qū)等。

“堅(jiān)持招大引強(qiáng)，推動(dòng)對(duì)外開放打開新局面?！泵忌健爸袊?guó)泡菜城”管委會(huì)相關(guān)負(fù)責(zé)人介紹，園區(qū)始終堅(jiān)持把招商引資作為加快發(fā)展的重中之重和推進(jìn)跨越式發(fā)展的第一抓手，利用各類平臺(tái)主動(dòng)加強(qiáng)項(xiàng)目對(duì)接，力求招商“質(zhì)”“量”雙提升。

2021 年，園區(qū)全年新簽約項(xiàng)目10 個(gè)，簽約資金370.13億元，完成東坡區(qū)區(qū)定目標(biāo)任務(wù)的120%。其中，投資10 億元以上重大項(xiàng)目3 個(gè)，招商引資總到位資金63.0645 億元。眉山“中國(guó)泡菜城”正緊緊抓住成渝地區(qū)雙城經(jīng)濟(jì)圈建設(shè)、成都都市圈高質(zhì)量發(fā)展新興城市等重大歷史機(jī)遇，全力推進(jìn)以商招商、產(chǎn)業(yè)招商、以企招商、網(wǎng)絡(luò)招商。一碟小泡菜，已做成大產(chǎn)業(yè)。

走上國(guó)際舞臺(tái)

2020 年11 月24 日，由眉山市政府主導(dǎo)制訂、眉山市市場(chǎng)監(jiān)管局牽頭負(fù)責(zé)的國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)ISO 24220《泡菜（鹽漬發(fā)酵蔬菜）規(guī)范和試驗(yàn)方法》在歷經(jīng)1 年多的反復(fù)論證后，順利通過國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化組織最終國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)草案階段（批準(zhǔn)階段）為期2 個(gè)月的投票，泡菜行業(yè)國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)正式誕生！這是中國(guó)泡菜產(chǎn)業(yè)國(guó)際化的直接體現(xiàn)，也是中國(guó)在ISO 框架下制定的第6 個(gè)食品標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。 意味著中國(guó)泡菜產(chǎn)業(yè)的技術(shù)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)被世界認(rèn)可，成了國(guó)際泡菜市場(chǎng)的行業(yè)標(biāo)桿。

眉山泡菜正一步步走上國(guó)際舞臺(tái)?！皩⑶嗖?、辣椒、紅皮蘿卜、胡蘿卜等蔬菜洗凈，切成適合的大小，塞入渾圓的陶罐里，再放上花椒、‘老母水’增香?！? 月，一群國(guó)際友人走進(jìn)中國(guó)泡菜博物館，在親身體驗(yàn)了一把四川泡菜制作流程后，他們對(duì)泡菜的認(rèn)知和喜愛更加深厚。英國(guó)人Max 對(duì)泡菜的制作非常感興趣，他說：“做泡菜很有意思，因?yàn)榕莶怂^了一百多年還能使用，其中一定有奧妙?！?/p>

在博物館里還展示著不同國(guó)家制作泡菜的材料和過程。小小的泡菜壇就像內(nèi)有乾坤的太虛幻境，將泡菜文化盡展眼前。來自俄羅斯的佳佳感嘆說，“每個(gè)朝代都有不同的做法，意味著中國(guó)泡菜歷史悠久。今天我們了解到中國(guó)泡菜的五味——苦甜咸辣酸，可見眉山泡菜的味道多么豐富”。

小泡菜“走出去”的步伐越邁越大。在日本、新加坡、美國(guó)、英國(guó)等地的超市里都能見到眉山泡菜，在國(guó)外的川菜館里，用得最多的一種輔料也是眉山泡菜。

“我們東坡泡菜不僅‘C 位’亮相紐約時(shí)代廣場(chǎng)，更行銷全球100 多個(gè)國(guó)家和地區(qū)，位列世界三大泡菜之一，產(chǎn)值超百億元?！币晃幻忌降呐笥羊湴恋馗嬖V記者，東坡泡菜已成為眉山向世界遞出的一張國(guó)際化名片。

傳承與創(chuàng)新、產(chǎn)業(yè)化與國(guó)際化，“千年泡菜，東坡故里”走出了一條符合自身特色的發(fā)展之路，時(shí)光知味，愈久彌香。

泡菜生產(chǎn)車間P i c k l e p r o d u c t i o n workshop

In Meishan City, Sichuan, there is the China Paocai Museum,the only professional museum in China with the theme of paocai (pickled vegetables). The museum has an exhibition area of 2,000 square meters. It consists of exhibition areas such as history and culture, production and processing, inheritance and innovation, products and brands, evaluation and experience, and looking forward to the future.

When I went to Meishan by car, the closer I got to Meishan,the more questions came to my mind. Why does Meishan have a“national brand” China Paocai Museum, and what opportunities does the pickled vegetables industry bring to Meishan? How do pickled vegetables step onto the international stage? Come on,let’s walk into the China Paocai Museum and find out.

Meishan is located between Mount Min and Mount Emei and is a place where the beauty of the mountains and rivers are gathered. It is a city with pleasant living environment. The excellent ecological environment has produced a rich variety of high-quality vegetables, and with the craftsmanship inherited for thousands of years and the tireless pursuit of food by the Meishan people, the local pickled vegetables have excellent quality.

As early as in the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo,the spokesman of Meishan cuisine and a famous poet, once left the story of “three whites”: a bowl of white rice, a plate of white salt and a bowl of white radish. A small dish of pickled radish accompanied Dongpo’s hard-fought youth when he was studying. Therefore, Meishan pickled vegetables are also called“Dongpo pickled vegetables”.

Nowadays, pickled vegetables have become the business card of Meishan. Meishan enjoys the reputation of “Sichuan is the most important place for pickled vegetables in China, and Meishan is the most important place for pickled vegetables in Sichuan”. Every household in Meishan has a pickle pot handed down in the family from generation to generation. “Everything can be pickled”is not a joke in Meishan.

Meishan people’s love for pickled vegetables has been refined into a “pickled vegetables culture” throughout history.The opening of the China Paocai Museum is the most direct way for the “Pickled Vegetables Culture” to be displayed to the outside world.

There is a relief wall 27 meters long and five meters high in the museum,which depicts the good mountains, rives and life in Sichuan: Xuebaoding (literally:“Snowy Treasure Peak”) on the Mount Min, Dujiangyan, which has been surging for thousands of years, and Chengdu Plain with thousands of miles of fertile fields. There are also pickling methods,marriage customs, babayan (a banquet with local characteristics), and other cultural customs. Together, they form a unique picture of “three thousand years of pickled vegetables with Chinese flavor”.

Two of the eight showcases in the museum show the origins of vegetable farming and pickled vegetables. In the two showcases are the farm tools unearthed at the Jinsha site in Chengdu,the “mustard or cabbage seeds” unearthed at the Banpo site in Xi’an in 1954, and the gourd skin and gourd seeds unearthed at the Hemudu Neolithic site in Yuyao,Zhejiang in 1973 and other ancient vegetable seeds.

The other six showcases display objects such as tools used for making pickled vegetables from the Shang and Zhou Dynasties to the Kangxi period.Combined with a large number of texts and literature records, they vividly reproduce the craftsmanship of Chinese pickled vegetables from planting, picking,and then pickling, all of which reflect the diligence of the Chinese people and their innovative spirit.

Meishan pickled vegetables have created six “national firsts”: China’s first pickled vegetables industrial park, China’s first national quality supervision and inspection center for pickled vegetables,China’s first pickled vegetables industry technology research institute, the first China Paocai Museum, China’s first industry standard for pickled vegetables,China’s first 4A-level scenic spot about pickled vegetables—”China Paocai City”.

On November 24, 2020,the international standard ISO 24220 “Pickled Vegetables (Salted Fermented Vegetables)Specification and Test Methods” led by Meishan and Meishan Market Supervision Bureau successfully passed the Final Draft International Standard(approval phase) of the International Organization for Standardization after more than one year of repeated arguments and a two-month voting period. The international standard for the pickled vegetables industry was officially launched! This is a direct manifestation of the internationalization of China’s pickled vegetables industry and the 6th food standard developed by China under the ISO framework. This means that the technical standards of China’s pickled vegetables industry are recognized by the world and become the industry benchmark in the international pickled vegetables market.

國(guó)際友人參觀中國(guó)泡菜博物館Foreigners visit Chinese Pickle Museum

Meishan pickled vegetables are taking the international stage step by step. In January 2022, a group of visitors from other countries entered the China Paocai Museum. “Wash green vegetables,peppers, red radishes, carrots and other vegetables, cut them into suitable sizes,put them into a round clay pot, and add Chinese peppercorns and pickle solution to enhance the flavor.” After experiencing the production process of Sichuan pickled vegetables, they have a deeper understanding of and love for pickled vegetables. Max from the UK was very interested in making pickled vegetables and said, “It’s interesting to make pickled vegetables because the pickle solution still works even though it’s over 100 years old, so there must be something in it.”

The materials and processes of making pickled vegetables in different countries are also displayed in the museum. The small pickle pot is like an illusory realm with heaven and earth inside, showing the pickled vegetables culture in front of you.Jia Jia from Russia remarked, “The fact that each dynasty has a different way of making pickled vegetables means that Chinese pickled vegetables have a long history. Today we learned about the five flavors of Chinese pickles—bitter, sweet, salty, spicy and sour. This shows how rich the taste of Meishan pickled vegetables is.”

Pickled vegetables are speeding up the pace of “going global”. Meishan pickled vegetables can be seen in supermarkets in Japan, Singapore, the United States, the United Kingdom and other places. In foreign Sichuan restaurants, the most used auxiliary ingredient is Meishan pickled

“Our Dongpo pickled vegetables not only appeared in Times Square in New York but are also sold to more than 100 countries and regions around the world, ranking among the world’s top three pickles, with an output value of over 10 billion yuan.” A friend from Meishan proudly told the correspondent that Dongpo pickled vegetables have become an international business card that Meishan presents to the world.