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The Best Things to Do in Hermann赫曼小鎮(zhèn)的最佳打開(kāi)方式

2024-08-11 00:00:00埃麗卡·埃布斯沃思-古爾德/文鄭秀君/譯
英語(yǔ)世界 2024年8期

Founded in the 1800s by German vintners, Hermann has retained its small-town character and rich viticulture traditions, making it a perfect Midwestern road trip stop or weekend destination.

19世紀(jì),德國(guó)葡萄酒商創(chuàng)建了赫曼小鎮(zhèn)。自那時(shí)起,赫曼一直保留著獨(dú)特的小鎮(zhèn)風(fēng)貌和深厚的葡萄栽培傳統(tǒng),成為美國(guó)中西部公路旅行的理想之地、周末休閑的絕佳去處。

Hermann, Missouri, founded more than 180 years ago, sits alongside the Missouri River, extending up into dramatic limestone bluffs. German immigrants first came to the area because it reminded them of the Rhine River Valley, but found the rugged land tough to tame. The crop that grew best? Grapes. That discovery kickstarted 51d3d3ea9c7ea3b312901e0e29a6b58164f9b137510d24a03c86b9f5b5135871a thriving wine industry, one that roared back post-Prohibition1 and continues to this day in a region that oozes Old World charm.

密蘇里州的赫曼小鎮(zhèn)建于180多年前。小鎮(zhèn)坐落于密蘇里河河畔,背倚巍峨的石灰?guī)r峭壁。德國(guó)移民最先到這里定居,因?yàn)檫@里酷似萊茵河谷,但他們發(fā)現(xiàn)這里地形崎嶇,難以開(kāi)墾。在這種條件下,什么作物長(zhǎng)得最好?答案是葡萄。這一發(fā)現(xiàn)催生了赫曼興旺的葡萄酒業(yè)。禁酒令解除后,小鎮(zhèn)的葡萄酒業(yè)重振旗鼓,如今依舊在這片流露出“舊世界”魅力的土地上蓬勃發(fā)展。

Here’s our list of the best things to do, places to eat and spots to stay in Hermann.

我們做了一份關(guān)于赫曼的攻略,其中包括精選體驗(yàn)、美食與住宿,供您參考。

What to do

體驗(yàn)篇

Sample local wines and spirits

品味當(dāng)?shù)孛谰?/p>

Hermann’s winemaking roots run deep. The town celebrated its first “Weinfest” in 1848, a tradition that continues today with an annual Oktoberfest2. Considering Hermann was the country’s biggest vino producer between 1865 and 1870, no visit is complete without at least a couple of winery stops. You’ll see a lot of Missouri grapes including Chambourcin, Norton and Chardonel in the town’s many vintages.

赫曼的釀酒傳統(tǒng)根基深厚。早在1848年,小鎮(zhèn)便舉辦了首屆“葡萄酒節(jié)”,這一傳統(tǒng)延續(xù)至今,已融入每年10月的啤酒節(jié)。1865年至1870年間,赫曼是美國(guó)最大的葡萄酒產(chǎn)地。鑒于此,如果不去參觀幾個(gè)葡萄酒莊,怎么能算完美的赫曼之旅呢?在赫曼,您可以品味到用密蘇里州的香寶馨、諾頓和沙多內(nèi)爾等葡萄品種釀制的多款美酒。

The Hermann Wine Trail includes seven wineries that routinely hold special events such as cheese and chocolate pairings. Established in 1855, Adam Puchta is a must-stop along the way; it’s the country’s oldest continuously owned family farm winery, passed down through seven generations of the Puchta family.

“赫曼葡萄酒游覽路線”匯集了七家葡萄酒莊,它們會(huì)定期舉辦一系列特別活動(dòng),如奶酪與葡萄酒、巧克力與葡萄酒的搭配品嘗體驗(yàn)。成立于1855年的亞當(dāng)·普赫塔酒莊是這條路線上的必訪之地。作為美國(guó)最古老的家族農(nóng)場(chǎng)酒莊,它見(jiàn)證了普赫塔家族七代人不間斷的傳承。

While it’s not on the wine trail, Stone Hill is also a top winery stop, with its scenic hilltop vineyards. Take the cellar tour for a fascinating first-hand look at the town’s early winemaking history, and leave room for a bite or snack at the winery’s Vintage 1847 Restaurant inside a carriage house.

石山酒莊雖然不在赫曼葡萄酒游覽路線上,但也是頂級(jí)葡萄酒莊,坐擁風(fēng)光旖旎的山頂葡萄園。推薦您到這里參觀酒窖,親身感受小鎮(zhèn)早期釀酒歷史的魅力。別忘了留出時(shí)間,到酒莊里由馬車(chē)房改造的“復(fù)古1847”餐廳嘗嘗小吃或點(diǎn)心。

Keep in mind that German-style wine made in Hermann tends to be on the sweeter side. Ask for dry3 options at the start of your tasting if you prefer less sugar.

切記,赫曼產(chǎn)的德式葡萄酒偏甜。若您偏好低糖口味,記得在品嘗之初選擇干葡萄酒。

If you’re more into beer and/or liquor, no worries. Hermann is home to a handful of distilleries and microbreweries that use local grains to make gin, rye, bourbon, whiskey and beer. Black Shire’s cocktail list is especially fun, featuring sour cherry, peach and blackberry flavors.

如果您更傾心于啤酒和/或烈酒,赫曼同樣不會(huì)讓您失望。小鎮(zhèn)擁有數(shù)家釀酒廠和小型啤酒廠,以當(dāng)?shù)毓任餅樵?,釀制杜松子酒、黑麥酒、波旁威士忌、其他各?lèi)威士忌以及啤酒。其中,黑夏爾釀酒廠的雞尾酒酒單尤為有趣,酸櫻桃、桃子和黑莓是這家酒莊的特色口味。

Pro tip: Consider leaving your car at home so you don’t have to designate a driver. Amtrak4 stops downtown daily on its Missouri River Runner route between St. Louis and Kansas City. While Hermann’s quite walkable, there’s also a year-round trolley service. For just $25, purchase a day pass for safe transport to a dozen wineries and distilleries.

專(zhuān)業(yè)建議:考慮選乘列車(chē)而非自駕,免去找代駕的煩惱。美國(guó)國(guó)鐵運(yùn)營(yíng)的密蘇里河跑者號(hào)列車(chē)往返于圣路易斯市和堪薩斯城之間,每天都會(huì)在市區(qū)??俊:章浅_m合步行游覽,當(dāng)然您也可以選擇搭乘全年服務(wù)的電車(chē)。只需花費(fèi)25美元購(gòu)買(mǎi)一日乘車(chē)卡,便可安全暢游十幾個(gè)葡萄酒莊和釀酒廠。

Hit the Katy Trail

探索凱蒂步道

Missouri’s beloved Katy Trail State Park lies just three miles from Hermann. Cyclists love the former railroad track, now a 240-mile-long path; the route is especially pretty as it meanders along river bluffs and mid-Missouri farm fields. The McKittrick Trailhead is Hermann’s closest access point, and a snap5 to reach thanks to the town’s bike-friendly bridge over the Missouri River. If you’re not bringing your own wheels, check out Pedago Hermann, where you can rent e-bikes for the day. You’ll cover more ground and cruise the trail in comfort.

赫曼距離密蘇里人鐘愛(ài)的凱蒂步道州立公園僅三英里。凱蒂步道由舊鐵道改建而成,全長(zhǎng)約240英里,時(shí)而沿河崖蜿蜒而行,時(shí)而穿梭于密蘇里州中部的農(nóng)田之間,沿途風(fēng)景美不勝收,深受騎行者喜愛(ài)。麥基特里克道口是距離赫曼最近的入口,經(jīng)過(guò)一座易于騎行、橫跨密蘇里河的橋就到了。如果您沒(méi)有帶自行車(chē)來(lái),可以在“指路赫曼”網(wǎng)站租借電動(dòng)自行車(chē),這樣您就能輕松游覽這條路線,還能領(lǐng)略更多美景。

Learn the history

了解小鎮(zhèn)歷史

Hermann’s residents take pride in their heritage and history. Learn what life was like for the first settlers at Deutschheim State Historic Site, where brick homes allow you to glimpse German traditions stretching back nearly two centuries. The site includes the 1840 Pommer-Gentner house, one of the oldest surviving buildings in Hermann. A guided tour ($5 a person) is well worth a wine break, just be sure to make reservations online.

赫曼居民對(duì)自己的傳統(tǒng)和歷史深以為傲。您可以前往“德國(guó)人之家州級(jí)歷史遺址”,了解第一批定居者的生活情況。通過(guò)遺址的磚房,您可以窺見(jiàn)延傳了近兩個(gè)世紀(jì)的德式傳統(tǒng),其中包括建于1840年的波默-根特納之屋——赫曼現(xiàn)存最古老的建筑之一。遺址的導(dǎo)覽服務(wù)(每人五美元)非常值得一試,尤其是在品酒小憩時(shí),不過(guò)請(qǐng)記得提前在網(wǎng)上預(yù)訂。

The Hermann Farm Museum spans a collection of historic buildings including the Teubner-Husmann house, home to George Husmann, considered the father of Missouri wine. Visitors can learn not only about local history but also about endangered Shire horses—large, gentle horses that are bred, raised and trained on the farm. Tour options include carriage rides with Shire horses, behind-the-scenes tours of Black Shire Distillery, and a grand tram tour of the farm.

赫曼農(nóng)場(chǎng)博物館匯聚了一系列歷史建筑,其中包括托伊布納-胡斯曼館,即人稱(chēng)密蘇里州葡萄酒之父的喬治·胡斯曼的故居。游客不僅可以在博物館了解當(dāng)?shù)貧v史,還能看到瀕臨滅絕的夏爾馬。這種馬在農(nóng)場(chǎng)里繁育和訓(xùn)練,體格高大,性格溫和。您可以體驗(yàn)夏爾馬馬車(chē)之旅,探尋黑夏爾釀酒廠的幕后運(yùn)作,乘坐大型電車(chē)游覽農(nóng)場(chǎng)風(fēng)光。

For another peek into the past, stop by the Historic Hermann Museum, housed in the 1871 German School building. Exhibits showcase a variety of household, farm and other items.

如果您想繼續(xù)探索赫曼的過(guò)去,可以參觀赫曼歷史博物館。這座博物館坐落在建于1871年的德國(guó)學(xué)校里,館內(nèi)陳列著各式各樣的家居用品、農(nóng)具等展品。

Find a festival

參加節(jié)日慶典

Hermann loves a good party, and the town throws plenty throughout the year. From late March’s Wurstfest (celebrating sausage, sauerkraut and adorable wiener dogs!) to Maifest, August’s Wine and Jazz Festival, a month-long Oktoberfest and even an old-fashioned Christmas, Hermann’s always got a cele-bration on the calendar. Special event weekends can get crowded, so make transportation plans and book accommodations well in advance.

赫曼鐘愛(ài)節(jié)慶,鎮(zhèn)上全年慶典不斷。3月下旬有香腸節(jié),贊美香腸、德國(guó)酸菜和可愛(ài)的臘腸犬;5月有五朔節(jié);8月有葡萄酒和爵士音樂(lè)節(jié);10月有長(zhǎng)達(dá)一個(gè)月的啤酒節(jié);12月有傳統(tǒng)韻味十足的圣誕節(jié)。赫曼一年到頭總是排滿節(jié)慶活動(dòng)。周末舉行的節(jié)慶活動(dòng)可能人流量較大,建議您提前規(guī)劃交通、預(yù)訂住宿。

Revel in retail therapy

體驗(yàn)購(gòu)物療法

The town might be small (population: 2,200), but its retail scene is robust. Topiaries carries handmade gifts and items inspired by nature. Bibliophiles will love browsing Buy the Book’s vintage volumes. And Ricky’s Chocolate Box has your sweet tooth covered, with 200 types of candies crafted onsite. To pack a taste of Germany in your picnic basket or to take home, head to Hermann Wurst House for sausages, gourmet foods and sauces.

赫曼雖然規(guī)模不大(人口僅2200人),但零售業(yè)相當(dāng)發(fā)達(dá)。在“園藝雕塑師”店鋪中,您可以買(mǎi)到各種手工禮品和以自然為靈感的物件。如果您是書(shū)籍愛(ài)好者,那您一定會(huì)喜歡到“買(mǎi)書(shū)吧”淘古董書(shū)。而在“里基的巧克力盒”,您可以品嘗到現(xiàn)場(chǎng)制作的200種糖果,滿足您對(duì)甜食的喜愛(ài)。如果您想把德國(guó)味道裝入野餐籃或帶回家,不妨前往“赫曼香腸屋”,店里提供香腸、精致餐食和醬汁。

Where to eat

美食篇

You may not need to venture far beyond wineries and your lodging for excellent fare6, but it’s fun to start your day at Ainsley’s Place with aebleskivers, Danish pancake balls topped with raspberry sauce and powdered sugar. The Tin Mill Restaurant, in a restored gristmill, serves comfort food7 and German specialties, including schnitzel and spaetzle. The Concert Hall and Barrel Tavern is the oldest continually operating tavern west of the Mississippi; its signature burgers are some of the best in town.

在赫曼,您或許不必折騰到離酒莊或酒店很遠(yuǎn)的地方尋找美食,用“安斯利之店”那淋著覆盆子醬、撒著糖粉的丹麥松餅球開(kāi)啟新的一天就能給您帶來(lái)無(wú)限樂(lè)趣?!板a坊餐廳”藏身于一座翻修過(guò)的磨坊里。這家餐廳提供撫慰人心的食物和德國(guó)特色美食,如炸肉排和雞蛋面疙瘩。此外,“音樂(lè)廳和桶酒館”是密西西比河以西最古老的持續(xù)經(jīng)營(yíng)的酒館,其招牌漢堡堪稱(chēng)全鎮(zhèn)最佳。

Where to stay

住宿篇

Hermann Hill, with a commanding view over the river and town, accommodates guests at a boutique hotel and spa—plus it has a handful of cottage suites that are dog-friendly.

在赫曼希爾酒店,密蘇里河和小鎮(zhèn)風(fēng)光一覽無(wú)余。這家酒店提供精品客房服務(wù)和水療會(huì)所服務(wù)——外加幾套允許攜愛(ài)犬入住的別墅套房。

With four elegantly appointed8 cottages and suites in the middle of downtown, Abigail’s Grape Leaf B&B9 provides visitors with bespoke service and gourmet breakfasts in a prime location.

阿比蓋爾葡萄葉酒店位于城鎮(zhèn)中心,擁有四個(gè)裝飾典雅的別墅和套房,旅客可以在黃金地段享受定制服務(wù)和美味早餐。

The Inn at Hermanoff offers a var-iety of accommodations including luxury suites, whole homes and historic stone hillside cottages built in the mid-1800s.

赫曼諾夫客棧提供多種房型,包括豪華套房、家庭套房和山坡石屋。石屋建于19世紀(jì)中葉,頗具歷史感。

For an elevated experience, consider The Cottage—a cute cabin that keeps your feet on the ground, but the standouts are three beautiful treehouses that let you sleep in leafy, lofty comfort.

若您追求體驗(yàn)的“提升”,不妨考慮村舍酒店。這家酒店不僅有一間能讓您“腳踏實(shí)地”的可愛(ài)小屋,更有三間漂亮的樹(shù)屋,能讓您在郁郁蔥蔥的悠悠空中盡享愜意睡眠。

Finally, the Vallet House, in a building that dates to 1843, gives guests gorgeous Missouri River views; four-course wine dinners and port tastings are available each Friday and Saturday night.

最后推薦的是瓦萊之家,這家酒店所在的建筑可追溯到1843年。在這里,您可以欣賞到絕美的密蘇里河景,每周五和周六晚上,酒店還為住客提供含四道菜的葡萄酒套餐和波爾圖酒品嘗活動(dòng)。

(譯者為“《英語(yǔ)世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎(jiǎng)?wù)?,單位:中山大學(xué))

1 Prohibition美國(guó)1920年至1933年的禁酒時(shí)期。

2 Oktoberfest十月節(jié),源自德語(yǔ)。因節(jié)日期間的主要飲料是啤酒,所以人們習(xí)慣稱(chēng)其為啤酒節(jié)。

3 dry無(wú)甜味的;干的。 4 Amtrak美國(guó)國(guó)家鐵路客運(yùn)公司(National Railroad Passenger Corporation),簡(jiǎn)稱(chēng)“美鐵”。Amtrak是America和track組成的混合詞。

5 snap容易的事;好辦的事。

6 fare〈正式〉飯菜。 7 comfort food安慰性食物,指讓人吃后感覺(jué)舒服的食物,通常具有懷舊或感傷的吸引力。

8 appointed裝飾的,布置陳設(shè)的。 9 = bed and breakfast住宿加早餐,指提供一晚住宿和早餐的房間,或者指提供這種服務(wù)的私人住宅或小型酒店。

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