小面皮，大產業

譯/劉克成

2023年，寶雞市搟面皮產業產值達到55.5億元，一份均價5元的搟面皮躋身寶雞特色產業的行列。在陜西的諸多小吃品類中，寶雞搟面皮正成長為當地支柱產業。然而，這背后蘊含著一部小吃經濟的多年“創業史”。

In 2023，Baoji's GanMianpi （hand-rolled noodles） industry reached an impressive turnover of 5.55 billion yuan.With an average price of just5 yuan per serving， this humble dish has secured its place as a signature industry of Baoji.Among the many delicious street foodsin Shaanxi，Baoji's GanMianpihasdeveloped intoakey local industry.Underlying this success are yearsof entrepreneurial effort，weavingarich history of the local street food economy.

尋味岐山 A Taste of Qishan

搟面皮這一寶雞人的三餐標配，發源于寶雞市岐山縣。岐山縣城有大大小小1200多個面皮攤點，其中多數以“八畝溝搟面皮”命名。在鳳鳴鎮北寨子村八畝溝組，年過六旬的村民邢科做了一輩子搟面皮。他的店面是縣城里最為紅火的店鋪之一，從最初的街邊叫賣到現今盤下四家店面，這門傳統手藝支撐著邢科一大家子的生活。

Asa staple in the daily lives of the Baoji people， Gan Mianpi traces its roots back to Qishan County.

In the county town alone there are over 1，200 noodle stalls， with many proudly bearing the name \"Bamugou Gan Mianpi.” Among them， Xing Ke， a villager in his sixties from Bamugou， Beizhaizi Village，Fengming Town，has spent his entire life making Gan Mianpi; his shop is one of the busiest intown，andwhat startedasasimplestreet-side stall has grown into a thriving business with four storefronts.For Xingand his family， this traditional craft is more than just food，it is the lifeblood of Xing's whole family.

邢科是家中搟面皮技藝的第五代傳人。每天早上五六點鐘，他都要準時趕往縣城的店面開門做生意；中午剛過，前一天準備的所有搟面皮便基本售罄；下午到家，就要著手準備第二天的食材。“一張手工搟面皮的準備、制作需要耗費8小時，和面、醒面、洗面、發酵、燙、搟、蒸、晾等十多個工序，一樣都不能落下。”這樣的工作邢科一干就是40多年。

Xing is the fifth-generation inheritor of his family's Gan Mianpi-making tradition. Every morning between5 and 6 a.m.，he heads into town to open his shop. By early afternoon， the entire batch of Gan Mianpi prepared the previous day is usually sold out; he then returns home to begin preparing ingredients for the next day.He has followed this routine for over 4O years.“Making a single sheetof hand-rolled Gan Mianpi takes a full eight hours， Xing explains. “From kneading and resting the dough to washing， fermenting， blanching， rolling， steaming， and drying; there are more than ten steps，and no single one can be skipped\"

據老師傅們傳授的經驗，八畝溝搟面皮之所以口感酸香、韌性十足、嚼勁滿滿，一在其面，二在其手藝，三在其配料，而這些核心要素都依賴于面皮師傅對面粉發酵的精準掌控和他們多年練就的“手搟”技藝。

According to seasoned masters，the signature sour aroma， firm texture， and chewiness of Bamugou Gan Mianpi derive from three key factors： the dough， the craftsmanship，and the ingredients.At the heart of it all is the noodle maker's precise judgment of fermentation and their hand-rolling skills，honed over yearsof practice.

邢科一直堅信，要留住食物的傳統味道，就要培養一批優秀的面皮師傅，這是岐山搟面皮能在民間生存的核心力和生命力。2018年前后，他的技藝吸引了許多人前來八畝溝拜師求藝。邢科也打破不傳外人的老規矩，廣開門戶收徒。一批批徒弟學成離開，在全國各地做起搟面皮生意。

Xing strongly believes that preserving the traditional flavour means training a new generation of skilled noodle makers. This，he says， is the core strength and lifeblood which keeps Qishan Gan Mianpi alive among the people. Around 2018，with growing numbers of people admiring his craft， many travelled to Bamugou specifically to learn from him. Breaking from the old tradition of keeping techniques within the family， Xing decided to open his doors to apprentices.Successive wavesof hisstudents have mastered the art，setting off to start their own businesses across China.

聞“香”入行 DrawntotheAroma：A Newcomer's Journey

“90后”姑娘李英瑞是八畝溝搟面皮最早一批學徒之一，她在大學畢業后曾多次創業。2013年9月，她的第一家搟面皮店在市區開業。起初，由于產品單一，顧客稀少，她備受打擊。沒有經驗就從頭學起，在最開始的兩年里，李英瑞不是在前臺就是在后廚，從揉面、洗面到調味，一遍遍跟著師傅學。

Li Yingrui was among the first apprentices of Bamugou Gan Mianpi. A young woman of the generation after 9Os，she had tried her hand at multiple businesses after graduating from university. In September 20l3， she opened her first Gan Mianpi shopin thecity;however，withalimited menu and fewcustomers， the business struggled，and she faced atoughchallenge.Lackingexperience，shedecided to start from scratch.For the first two years，Li spentall her time either at the front counter or in the kitchen， learning every step from her master：kneading， washing the dough，and perfecting the seasoning， overand over again.

李英瑞嘗試調制了多種口味的辣椒配料，以滿足全國不同區域客戶的需求，比如為四川顧客加入麻辣味辣椒，為東北客戶添加糖醋和辣椒。酸辣、香辣、怪味、酸甜在不斷摸索中，她最終確定了包含十余個品種的“面皮宴”，包括過橋面皮、茴香面皮、漢堡面皮、壽司面皮等。

Liexperimented with different chilli blends in order to cater for customers from various regions across China.For example，when selling Gan Mianpi in Sichuan， she added a“numbing-spicy”kick，while for customers in the Northeast， she tempered the heat with a sweet and sour twist. From tangy and spicyto fragrantheat，savouryumami， andsweetand sour， she continually refined her flavours until she finally achieved a menu of over ten unique varieties， including“Crossing-the-Bridge”GanMianpi， fennel

GanMianpi，burger-style Gan Mianpi，and even sushi-style Gan Mianpi.

正是因為她的搟面皮足夠百變，店里的生意一步步好轉起來。2020年，李英瑞注冊“阿瑞姐”商標，成立了自己的餐飲公司，而后“阿瑞姐”搟面皮取得了寶雞搟面皮大賽一等獎等多項榮譽。

Due to her creativity and versatility， business gradually increased. By 202o，Li officially registered the brand “A Rui Jie，”launching her own restaurant company. Soonafter， “A Rui Jie，Gan Mianpi started making waves， winning first prize in Baoji's Gan Mianpi competition and other awards.

62項專利 62 Patents

搟面皮做得夠不夠好的問題解決了，還要解決做得夠不夠多的問題。傳統手工搟面皮制作費時費力，三人一組的手工團隊一天最多制作200張。為了讓搟面皮走向更廣闊的市場，工業化生產是必然的選擇。

Making Gan Mianpi taste great was just one challenge; the next was working out how to produce enoughofit. Traditional hand-rolled GanMianpiis time-consumingand labour-intensive，and a team of three skilled workers could only produce some 200 sheets per day. To bring this beloved dish to a larger market，industrial production became thelogical next step.

從手工制作到工業化流水線生產，一碗小小的面皮中就蘊含著62項專利。例如，真空包裝技術和非真空鎖鮮專利技術不僅鎖住了搟面皮的原味，也讓存儲時間延長至270天。這些專利技術幫助寶雞搟面皮走出“家門”，邁向全球。

From handmade craftsmanship to automated production lines， this humble bowl of Gan Mianpi nowcarries62patents.Innovationssuchasvacuum packaging technology and non-vacuum freshnesslocking techniques help to preserve the authentic flavour， also extending shelf life to 27o days.Due to these advancements， Baoji Gan Mianpi has not only expanded beyond its hometown; it is now making its way onto the global stage.

創新推廣 Creative Promotion

2024年初，一段“搟面皮為麻辣燙上分”的視頻上了熱搜。視頻中，寶雞某企業在甘肅天水街頭向游客贈送搟面皮，公司負責人現場喊話：“在排隊等候天水麻辣燙時，不妨先來一份搟面皮墊墊肚子。”面對如此熱情，不少游客感嘆：“不是天水麻辣燙吃不起，而是免費送的搟面皮更有性價比。”

In early 2024，a viral video titled \"Gan Mianpi Boosts Malatang's Popularity\" became a leading trending search; it featured a Baojibased company offering free Gan Mianpi to tourists on the streets of Tianshui， Gansu. The company's representative enthusiastically announced： “With so many people queuing for Tianshui Malatang， why not enjoy a serving of Gan Mianpi to fill your stomach first？” This warm gesture took tourists by surprise， with many joking：“It’s not that we can't afford Tianshui Malatang;it’s just that free Gan Mianpiisthebetterdeal！\"

為推廣寶雞特色文化，2023年8月，寶雞市文化和旅游局就創作并排練了寶雞本土原創話劇——《面皮》。該劇講述了三代“面皮人”的創業史，為觀眾呈現了一場充滿地方特色的文化盛宴。

To promote the rich cultural heritage of Baoji theBaoji Culture and Tourism Bureau launched the original local stage play，Mianpi， in August 2023. The play tells the entrepreneurial journey of three generations of Gan Mianpi makers，offering the audience a cultural feast full of local flavour.

巡演中，有這樣一個細節：舞臺上的表演正震撼人心，高潮還未落下，一份份紅油晶潤的搟面皮恰好被送到現場觀眾手中。跌宕的故事情節配以美食的撫慰，搟面皮這一IP在現場被再次強化。

One unforgettable moment of the tour stood out;justas the performancereached itsdramatic climax， steaming plates of Gan Mianpi， glistening" withred chillioil，weredelivered totheaudience.

The mix of emotional storytelling and comforting flavours created an immersive experience， further consolidating Gan Mianpi as a powerful cultural icon.

正是這部聚焦搟面皮的作品，讓寶雞市搟面皮的銷量又迎來新一波高漲。演出當月，全市搟面皮銷售額增加了5000多萬元，行業整體產值提高了 20‰

This Gan Mianpi-focused stage play did not simply entertain; it boosted sales across Baoji. During the month of the performance alone， citywide sales of Gan Mianpi surged by over 50 million yuan，achieving a 20% increase in the industry's total output value.

如今，從小麥種植、加工到產業園建設、物流體系完善、品牌商標注冊，寶雞搟面皮已形成完整的產業鏈布局，甚至在高校設立了搟面皮學院。2023年，寶雞搟面皮產業鏈從業人員超過了10方人，小面皮正在成就大產業。

Today，Baoji'sGanMianpi industryhasdeveloped into a well-structured system，encompassing everything from wheat cultivation and processing to industrial parks，logistics networks，and brand trademarks;ithasevenledtotheestablishmentofa Gan Mianpi institution at local university， and by 2023 more than 1oo，oo0 people were employed across the Gan Mianpi supply chain. What started as a humble street food is now driving a thriving industry.