食用菌與人類健康（三）*

Mary Jo Feeney, Johanna Dwyer, Clare M. Hasler-Lewis, John A. Milner, Manny Noakes, Sylvia Rowe, Mark Wach, Robert B. Beelman, Joe Caldwell, Margherita T. Cantorna0, Lisa A. Castlebury, Shu-Ting Chang, Lawrence J. Cheskin, Roger Clemens, Greg Drescher, Victor L. Fulgoni III, David B. Haytowitz, Van S. Hubbard, David Law, Amy Myrdal Miller0, BartMinor, Susan S. Percival, Gabriela Riscuta, Barbara Schneeman, Suzanne Thornsbury, Cheryl D. Toner, Catherine E. Woteki, Dayong Wu

食用菌與人類健康（三）*

Mary Jo Feeney1, Johanna Dwyer2, Clare M. Hasler-Lewis3, John A. Milner4, Manny Noakes5, Sylvia Rowe6, Mark Wach7, Robert B. Beelman8, Joe Caldwell9, Margherita T. Cantorna10, Lisa A. Castlebury11, Shu-Ting Chang12, Lawrence J. Cheskin13, Roger Clemens14, Greg Drescher15, Victor L. Fulgoni III16, David B. Haytowitz17, Van S. Hubbard18, David Law19, Amy Myrdal Miller20, Bart
Minor21, Susan S. Percival22, Gabriela Riscuta23, Barbara Schneeman24, Suzanne Thornsbury25, Cheryl D. Toner26, Catherine E. Woteki27, Dayong Wu28

8　消費(fèi)者喜好與食用菌感官性狀

2011年，美國人均消費(fèi)1.8千克食用菌，其中鮮菇為1.3千克[65]。一項(xiàng)對(duì)12 618名美國消費(fèi)者進(jìn)行的全國抽樣調(diào)查結(jié)果顯示，2012年，有41%的家庭購買過食用菌，至少消費(fèi)5.53億美元[66]。其中，有三分之二的戶主年齡小于45歲，31%是有孩子的家庭，而59%是二人家庭；80%是白人，7%為非洲裔，6%為華裔。在所有的家庭報(bào)告中，有91%是非西班牙人。年收入＞6萬美元的家庭，其食用菌消費(fèi)支出占47%。根據(jù)美國烹飪學(xué)院和哈佛大學(xué)公共健康營(yíng)養(yǎng)系所發(fā)起的“菜單的演變”，綜合健康可持續(xù)食材的選擇，味道，不同的烹飪方式，人口結(jié)構(gòu)變化的趨勢(shì)和良好的商業(yè)模式，催生出了味道濃郁，以植物為主體的菜系。食用菌以其獨(dú)特的感官和烹飪功能特性，可以幫助美國人走向更加健康的素食道路。尤其是雙孢蘑菇中谷氨酸（與味精不同）和核糖核苷酸的含量很高。谷氨酸和某些5'-核糖核苷酸是具有鮮味的活性化合物，被稱為食物的第五味。尤其是谷氨酸鈣，可以顯著改善低鈉食品的風(fēng)味[67,68]。

公眾被建議“將你盤子里的水果和蔬菜減半”“跳過鹽”和“經(jīng)常吃植物蛋白食品”[69]。這些將對(duì)制定既能促進(jìn)人體健康又能改善食物風(fēng)味的烹飪策略提出挑戰(zhàn)。具體來說，新興的趨勢(shì)不是要求消費(fèi)者必須在放縱和健康之間做選擇，而是可以通過烹飪方式和菜單的創(chuàng)新，實(shí)現(xiàn)健康、風(fēng)味、功能性的有效融合。

食用菌的一項(xiàng)新興作用似乎具有這種融合功能，既能大量減少肉類的攝入，又能在消費(fèi)者中得高分（數(shù)據(jù)未公開發(fā)表，由美國烹飪學(xué)院的A. Myrdal Miller在2013年9月10日召開的食用菌與健康峰會(huì)上提出）。由13位成員組成的描述性分析小組對(duì)四種烹飪方式（蒸、煎、灼、烤）進(jìn)行評(píng)估，以篩選出可以提供最好感官性狀的烹飪方式。6種墨西哥卷餅Taco（①100%牛肉餡，②50%牛肉+50%白色雙孢菇餡，③20%牛肉+80%白色雙孢蘑菇餡，另三種分別為在①②③的基礎(chǔ)上降低 25%的鈉含量）接受了該描述性分析小組和147名（43%為男性）年齡在18～65歲的消費(fèi)者的評(píng)估。

結(jié)合了因子分析和分類方法的偏好映射分析，旨在評(píng)估市場(chǎng)細(xì)分的偏好性及其驅(qū)動(dòng)因素，根據(jù)消費(fèi)者的不同喜好和選擇，將其分為4個(gè)集群（數(shù)據(jù)未公開發(fā)表，由美國烹飪學(xué)院的A. Myrdal Miller 在2013年9月10日召開的食用菌與健康峰會(huì)上提出）。第1個(gè)集群（n=35），首選100%牛肉餡Taco和全部選擇全鹽食譜。集群1中的大多數(shù)消費(fèi)者習(xí)慣以肉食為主，屬于中等收入階層（年收入5萬～10萬美元），且沒有經(jīng)常運(yùn)動(dòng)。第2個(gè)集群（n=49）喜歡每一個(gè)食譜，喜歡肉和蘑菇融合得最好的。對(duì)他們這些“美食家”來說，味道是最關(guān)鍵的。該集群包括一些年輕婦女，是受過高等教育和相對(duì)富裕的一類人。第3個(gè)集群（n=27）不喜歡100%牛肉餡的，而喜歡以蘑菇為主餡兒的Taco。這一集群的消費(fèi)者以素食為主，不喜歡食用肉類。他們中的少數(shù)人屬于高收入階層（>10萬美元），多數(shù)是單身（74%）和學(xué)生（44%），而且他們經(jīng)常鍛煉。第4個(gè)集群（n=36）消費(fèi)者只喜歡100%牛肉餡的全鹽食譜。他們同時(shí)食用植物性食品和雞肉，以獲取有限的食物享受。該集群消費(fèi)者男性多于女性，年齡較大，既有較低收入（<5萬美元）又有較高收入（>10萬美元）階層。

這些結(jié)果表明，食用菌在部分替代混合食品中的肉類而不損害食物的感官效果方面具有很大的潛力。為了獲得成功，我們應(yīng)該基于人口學(xué)特征、消費(fèi)心態(tài)學(xué)、慣例和意識(shí)形態(tài)對(duì)消費(fèi)者偏好與細(xì)分市場(chǎng)的替代配方進(jìn)行戰(zhàn)略規(guī)劃。

然而，需要研究來闡明如何通過這種方法改進(jìn)消費(fèi)者的飲食習(xí)慣。通信研究也是解決由新的食物方案帶來的挑戰(zhàn)的一種方法，在某種程度上來說，它是準(zhǔn)確的，也是令人信服的。

9　探索食用菌在飲食建議中的作用

幾年來，食用菌已在一系列飲食指導(dǎo)中被提及。在2010年的美國膳食指南中，食用菌被推薦為“最佳”維生素D來源之一[70]。美國膳食指南是聯(lián)邦營(yíng)養(yǎng)政策的基礎(chǔ)，部分基于科學(xué)證據(jù)的系統(tǒng)評(píng)價(jià)[71]。食用菌正通過各種渠道進(jìn)入營(yíng)養(yǎng)推廣階段，如美國營(yíng)養(yǎng)學(xué)院、美國全國營(yíng)養(yǎng)月、加拿大衛(wèi)生部的飲食指南，以及新北歐飲食，都在大力宣揚(yáng)“鄉(xiāng)野植物和食用菌”的營(yíng)養(yǎng)價(jià)值[72]。盡管如此，仍然有人指出白色蔬菜，如土豆、菜花和蘑菇是“被遺忘的營(yíng)養(yǎng)源”[73]。

《美國國家健康與營(yíng)養(yǎng)調(diào)查》（NHANES，2001—2010年）分析了食用菌消費(fèi)與營(yíng)養(yǎng)攝入和飲食質(zhì)量之間的關(guān)系，以測(cè)定2005年美國成人的健康飲食指數(shù)（HEI）[74]。與非食用菌消費(fèi)者相比，食用菌消費(fèi)者攝入了更多的能量、蛋白質(zhì)、維生素B1、煙酸、葉酸、銅、硒，總糖和添加糖更低。同時(shí)，其健康飲食指數(shù)的總得分也較高，具體來說，HEI的食用菌得分高于總的蔬菜組分、深綠色或橘色蔬菜、全谷物和牛奶的得分，而食用菌組分的鈉含量更低。

其中一些數(shù)據(jù)表明，經(jīng)常消費(fèi)含有某些食用菌的食物[74]，也可以借此推廣其他健康食物。這種策略符合由單一性食物向整體性膳食結(jié)構(gòu)轉(zhuǎn)變的新型公共衛(wèi)生和營(yíng)養(yǎng)推廣趨勢(shì)。例如，美國人不喜歡吃深綠色或橙色的蔬菜，但是將食用菌與之搭配就增加了對(duì)其的攝入量。同時(shí)，美味的蘑菇可以使肉食主義者減少對(duì)肉類的攝取。如前所述，蘑菇也可以降低鈉的攝入量。

公眾獲取飲食指導(dǎo)的另一個(gè)來源是查看貼在食物上的營(yíng)養(yǎng)標(biāo)簽[75]。但是目前還沒有關(guān)于食用菌麥角硫因的標(biāo)簽聲明。關(guān)于麥角硫因每日攝入量的營(yíng)養(yǎng)成分聲明還未明確；同樣的，美國食品和藥物管理局（FDA）還沒有對(duì)其進(jìn)行審核。

10　總體研究需求

伴隨著對(duì)研究成果進(jìn)行有效負(fù)責(zé)溝通的重要性的討論，本次食用菌與健康峰會(huì)確定了許多研究需求。對(duì)人類的探索研究需要廣泛觀測(cè)免疫功能、腸道菌群、認(rèn)知、牙周炎、癌癥機(jī)制、身體組成和體重的變化。需要研究確定具體的食用菌種類消費(fèi)引起實(shí)質(zhì)性生物學(xué)和健康反應(yīng)所需的數(shù)量、時(shí)間和作用模式，并了解食用菌對(duì)健康影響的特異性。同樣，與其他食用菌種類進(jìn)行比較試驗(yàn)，或許可以鑒定出哪些是生物反應(yīng)的最關(guān)鍵成分。

在個(gè)性化營(yíng)養(yǎng)的尖鋒時(shí)代，需要確定誰會(huì)是給定的食用菌消費(fèi)模式中的最大受益者，而誰又不是。敏感性的生物標(biāo)記可以被識(shí)別。飲食、基因組和健康的相互作用是減少全球非傳染性疾病風(fēng)險(xiǎn)的基礎(chǔ)。

亟需開展?fàn)I養(yǎng)學(xué)的國際公私協(xié)作，以解決這些研究需要。協(xié)作和協(xié)調(diào)允許共享資源和開放研究。目前，data.gov是一個(gè)為西方八國集團(tuán)國家提供大量美國研究平臺(tái)的門戶網(wǎng)站。

最后，社會(huì)必須向著可持續(xù)和保障食品安全的方向發(fā)展。全球?qū)λ⑼恋睾湍茉葱枨蟮牟粩嘣鲩L(zhǎng)，將對(duì)食品和水資源構(gòu)成嚴(yán)重挑戰(zhàn)。

總之，在幾千年的烹飪和藥用經(jīng)驗(yàn)基礎(chǔ)上，食用菌與健康關(guān)系的研究在過去的十年中得到了快速的發(fā)展。潛在證據(jù)表明，食用菌及其生物活性成分，尤其是麥角硫因、維生素D、β-葡聚糖和硒，對(duì)免疫功能、腸道功能和體重管理具有積極的作用。初步證據(jù)顯示，食用菌具有減少慢性疾病的作用，包括降低患癌癥、肥胖癥、阿爾茨海默病和牙周炎的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)。這些證據(jù)都還處于研究的起步階段，當(dāng)前的問題仍然是集中在食用菌如何以及可能對(duì)誰有促進(jìn)身體健康作用的方面。公共健康營(yíng)養(yǎng)信息日益增多，包括指導(dǎo)如何向更健康的食物攝入方式轉(zhuǎn)變同時(shí)保證持久的美食享受，食用菌似乎起到了可有效改善飲食模式健康性的一個(gè)杠桿作用。

11　致 謝

蘑菇理事會(huì)和全體作者對(duì)致力于食用菌與健康峰會(huì)論文集的我們親愛的朋友和同事 John A. Milner博士的逝世致以沉痛的悼念，對(duì)他在本次峰會(huì)和本手稿的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)和洞察力方面所作的貢獻(xiàn)，以及其孜孜不倦地投身于營(yíng)養(yǎng)科學(xué)研究的精神致以真誠的感謝。特別感謝對(duì)本手稿提供幫助的以下各位：Christopher Davis，來自美國農(nóng)業(yè)部經(jīng)濟(jì)研究所市場(chǎng)和貿(mào)易經(jīng)濟(jì)部門；Michael Kalaras，賓西法尼亞州立大學(xué)博士后；Ilya Rahkovsky，來自美國農(nóng)業(yè)部經(jīng)濟(jì)研究所食品經(jīng)濟(jì)部門；Peter Roupas，來自澳大利亞聯(lián)邦科學(xué)與工業(yè)研究組織（CSIRO）動(dòng)物食品與健康科學(xué)部。

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*作者所在單位請(qǐng)見本刊2015年第一期中的同篇名（一）