4 Reasons Why You Need to Revisit Dashilan Like, Now.重訪北京大柵欄的理由

譯/孫力

The Achingly Cool Coffee Shops

情調咖啡館

Forget Gulou—we’re going to go out on a limb and say that Dashilan has the greatest concentration of cool coffee shops per square meter in Beijing.That’s right—from artisanal Soloist Coffee at 39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie (where they brew only the finest and you can recline in old salvaged armchairs)to Berry Beans, an early 20th century brothel that’s been converted into a gorgeous café with a little terrace (No.7 Zhujia Hutong).

忘了鼓樓吧——雖然有點夸張，我們還是要宣稱，大柵欄才是北京有趣咖啡館最集中的所在。的確如此——比如，位于楊梅竹斜街39號的Soloist Coffee，專注于匠人手沖咖啡，出品絕對頂級，你可以倚靠在老舊椅子里慢慢享用；再比如，位于朱家胡同7號的Berry Beans，原址在20世紀初是家妓院，現在改造成了一家有個小平臺的精致咖啡館。

The Hip Restaurants

時尚餐廳

Hunan resto The Southern Fish (166 Yangmeizhu Xiejie) flew under the radar for years until they made it onto Travel+Leisure’s hip list.And they’re not the only ones.Inde Japanese chain Suzuki Kitchen (10—14 Yangmeizhu Xiejie) has one of the best spaces on Yangmeizhu—a beautifully zen long room, filled with light and with its own kooky picnic area out front.

在登上“旅游+休閑時尚”榜單之前，位于楊梅竹斜街166號的湘菜小館漁芙南過去數年都少為人知。除這家外，還有不少時尚餐廳。比如，位于楊梅竹斜街10—14號的日餐連鎖店鈴木食堂，環境堪稱楊梅竹斜街最佳之一，有一個充滿曼妙禪意的縱長房間，光線充足，餐館前還有一個特色野餐區。

The Mix of Old and New

新舊混搭

Take a historic old district (home of the city’s oldest brand shops, opium dens and brothels), add a large dash of contemporary styling (thanks, Beijing Design Week) and you’ve got the perfect clash of old and new.For an insight into how the area has changed over the years, check out Beijing Postcard’s Public History Space at No.97 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, where you can hear audio recordings by locals and buy some beautiful old maps of the area.

大柵欄這個歷史老街區，原本集中了北京城年代最久遠的老字號店鋪、鴉片煙館和妓院，在添加大量現代風格元素后（感謝北京國際設計周的工作），形成了完美的新舊碰撞。如果你想進一步了解這個街區過往幾年的變遷，可以去北京卡片這家公司位于楊梅竹斜街97號的“公眾歷史空間”轉轉，在這兒你可以聽到北京土著錄制的音頻，還可以買到漂亮的大柵欄地區老地圖。

The Design Boutiques

設計精品店

Beijing has long been a city where all the best independent boutiques are spread miles apart.Luckily, Yangmeizhu Xiejie has stepped in to fill the void.Ubi Gallery (No.62) is a Bespoke favorite—a fantastic collection of Chinese and international designers—ceramics, cutting-edge jewelry, clothes,bags and the like.Meanwhile smaller spaces (often hidden at the top of exter-

北京城里最出色的各家獨立精品店一直以來彼此相距甚遠。幸運的是，楊梅竹斜街現在填補了空白。位于62號的Ubi藝廊是家很受歡迎的買手店，他家商品薈萃中外設計師的絕妙設計，有陶器、前衛首飾、服裝、手袋等。此外，還有好些隱藏在諸如戶外樓梯頂或者小巷深處的小店等你去發現，看看那些簡潔的中式服

〔〕〔〕nal staircases or down alleyways—go explore!) are fun to browse for simple Chinese clothes, handmade notebooks and other tchotchkes.Check out Taciturnli, Twelve Moons and the Book Design Shop.

裝、手工制作的筆記本和各種小玩意兒，也是很有意思的。Taciturnli、Twelve Moons和Book Design Shop都值得一看。

Dashilan’s Yangmeizhu Xiejie (Byway) and surrounding hutongs are a great place to check out the above mentioned venues, but if you want to take a visit there to the next level, why not have a historian really bring it to life?From the Boxer Rebellion to the founding of the People’s Republic, the area has seen more turbulence and change than almost any other.From 5,600RMB for a 3-hour private tour.

大柵欄的楊梅竹斜街（斜街就是主街旁邊的小街）及其周邊胡同是探索前文介紹的場所的好去處。不過，你要是還想進一步探訪，何不請一位了解這個地方歷史的人為你做更生動的介紹？從義和團運動至中華民國的成立，大柵欄這個街區恐怕比北京城其他地方目睹了更多滄海桑田的變化。3小時的私人行起價5600元人民幣。