When Your Home Becomes a Tourist Attraction當私人住所變成旅游景點

利莉特·馬庫斯/文　范婕/譯

Have you ever looked at a beautiful little mews house1 in London and thought “it must be so amazing to live there？” If so， you’re not the only one. But for the people who actually do live in those homes， social media photog-raphy has changed what it means to live in a picturesque place.

你是否曾經看著倫敦一棟漂亮的馬廄式小洋房，心想“住在里面肯定棒極了”？有這種想法的人并不止你一個，但對于真正住在那些房子里的人來說，社交媒體上曬出的照片已經改變了他們在如畫之境的生活。

Alice Johnston is a longtime resident of Notting Hill， the London neighborhood famous for pastel-painted row houses and for being the setting of the movie of the same name. Johnston， a journalist， has complicated feelings about her Instagram-beloved hood. She lives on Portobello Road， one of the capital’s most famous streets， and has witnessed all kinds of crazy behavior committed in the pursuit of the perfect snapshot. Once， she and a friend were walking his French bulldog when a tourist asked if they could “borrow” the pup for a quick photo op. The friend and the dog consented， the Instagrammer posed with the Frenchie in front of a bright blue door and then handed over five pounds as a thank-you.

艾麗絲·約翰斯頓是倫敦諾丁山街區的常住居民。這個街區因粉彩涂繪的聯排別墅而出名，也因是同名電影的拍攝地而為人熟知。身為記者的約翰斯頓對這個刷爆Instagram的網紅街區有著復雜的情感。她家所在的波托貝洛街是倫敦最有名的街道之一，她在這條街上目睹了人們為拍出一張絕美照片而做出的各種瘋狂行為。一次，約翰斯頓正在陪朋友遛他的法國斗牛犬，突然有位游客問他們是否可以“借”這只小狗來快速拍張照。約翰斯頓的朋友和小狗都表示同意，于是這位Instagram曬圖黨就在一扇亮藍色的門前擺好姿勢，與小狗合了影，然后遞給約翰斯頓的朋友五英鎊作酬謝。

Private lives， public places

私人生活與公共場所

In that story， everybody had a good time. But there can be a darker side to living inside what some people think is a movie set. “I was once woken up at 6 a.m. on Easter Sunday by French teenagers taking pictures outside，” Johnston says. She shares another anecdote： “One time I was changing after I got out of the shower and there was this elderly man taking a picture of my windows with an iPad.” Although the shutters were closed at the time， she was understandably rattled by the experience.

在上文的故事里，每個人都各得其所，最終愉快收場。然而，生活在別人眼中的電影拍攝地也有陰暗的一面。“某年復活節那個周日，清晨六點我就被幾個在外面拍照的法國少年吵醒了。”約翰斯頓說。她還講了另一件事：“有一回，我洗完澡出來，正在換衣服，有個老頭拿iPad對著我的窗戶拍照。”雖然當時百葉窗是關著的，但不難理解她還是受到了驚擾。

When private homes—and the people who live in them—become tourist attractions， clashes can occur. In more rural areas， people can put up fences or other barriers to access， but when these private homes are on public streets in some of the world’s busiest cities， what’s a resident to do？

一旦私人住所連同住在里面的人變成旅游景觀，就可能發生沖突。在較偏遠的農村地區，人們可以立圍欄，或者設置其他阻止外人進入的障礙物，但如果私人住所位于一些世界最繁忙城市的公共街道，住戶又該怎么辦呢？

Different communities have taken different approaches. In Hong Kong， a group of five interconnected housing estates nicknamed “the Monster Building” became a huge selfie spot after it was featured in several Hollywood films， including “Transformers： Age of Extinction.” The mega-building is in Quarry Bay， a relatively quiet neighborhood on the eastern side of Hong Kong island that most travelers skip over. Residents of the working-class community are not able to block the building off due to the fact that there are public businesses on the ground floors. Therefore， some have taken things into their own hands by posting signs asking visitors to be respectful. A sign in English and Chinese erected by building residents reads “This is a private estate. Trespassers are strictly prohibited from all kinds of activities （including but not limited to photographing， gatherings， use of drones and yelling etc.）. We shall not take responsibility for property damage and/or personal injury caused by any accident.” However， many visitors ignore the signs or simply think of them as suggestions， and a quick scan of Instagram shows plenty of recent images taken there.

不同的社區采取了不同的應對方法。香港有一幢由五棟相連住宅樓組成的建筑，人稱“怪獸大廈”，因在《變形金剛4：絕跡重生》等好幾部好萊塢電影里亮相，成為人氣火爆的自拍打卡地。這幢巨型大廈位于香港島東部的鲗魚涌，此地相對清靜，大部分游客都不太會去。因為底層為商鋪，所以這個工薪階層社區的住戶不能把大廈圍起來。于是，有人以自己的方式應對，張貼公告要求游客懂分寸。住戶立起的一塊告示牌上用英漢雙語寫道：“此為私人住宅樓，嚴禁外來者進行各種活動（包括但不限于拍照、集會、使用無人機和大聲喧嘩）。如發生意外，造成財產損失和/或人身傷害，我們概不負責。”然而，不少游客對這類公告要么視而不見，要么就只把其當成建議。快速掃一眼Instagram，就會看到大量最近在此地拍攝的照片。

Johnston says that a pale-pink house near where she lives has become such a popular photo site that the residents have given up on trying to keep people away. Instead， they’ve put up a donation box asking people to contribute money to charity in exchange for snapping a photo.

約翰斯頓說，離她家不遠有一棟淡粉色的房子，游客特別喜歡在那兒拍照，以至于住戶已不再試圖勸阻。他們反倒設置了一個公益箱，讓人們給慈善機構捐錢，以換取照相的機會。

When your home is a piece of history

當你住的房子是歷史建筑

Chuck Henderson’s grandmother， Della， was a lover of architecture—so much that she was able to commission a home in California built by the world-renowned American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The Mrs. Clinton Walker House in Carmel-by-the-Sea was completed in 1951 and passed into the hands of Henderson and some of his relatives when Walker died. No one lives in it full time， but the different family members and their guests take turns staying there.

查克·亨德森的祖母德拉極熱愛建筑藝術，她甚至委托世界知名的美國建筑師弗蘭克·勞埃德·賴特為自己在加利福尼亞州建造了一棟房子。這棟位于濱海卡梅爾的克林頓·沃克夫人之家于1951年完工，沃克去世后就傳給了亨德森及其部分親屬。他們誰都沒有在那里長住，只是各位家庭成員以及各自的客人會輪流小住。

Wright fans will come from all over the world to try and get glimpses of some of his masterpieces. While some， like the famous Fallingwater House in Pennsylvania， are year-round attractions， others remain private residences. Many people who own homes featured in architecture textbooks have to add the cost of security measures onto other expenses like utilities and homeowners insurance.

賴特的崇拜者從世界各地趕來，都希望一睹大師之作。賴特的作品，有的是常年對外開放的旅游景點，比如賓夕法尼亞州著名的流水別墅，而其他的則是私人住所。說起建筑學教科書上的房子，許多房主除了繳納水電費和房主保險等費用外，還得額外支付安保費。

“We put these security cameras in after we had some vandalism about six or seven years ago，” Henderson says. The vandalism in question wasn’t graffiti， though. He explains： “We have this big wooden remnant of a tree that is placed as the centerpiece of the garden by the original landscape designer. Someone cut a notch from it. It looked clean， like someone used a chainsaw or something. One of our doors—between the carport and the main house—has a bunch of nautical cork discs in a rope net and is the counterweight for the door. That has been absconded with a couple of times.”

“六七年前發生過幾起故意破壞的事件，后來我們裝上了這些攝像頭。”亨德森說道。他所說的故意破壞事件可不是亂涂亂畫。他解釋說：“我們花園的中央有一塊很大的樹木殘骸，是最初那位景觀設計師設置在那兒的。有人在上面割了個凹槽，切口看上去很整齊，像是用了電鋸之類的工具。另外，在車棚和主屋之間有一扇門，門上用繩網掛著一串用作配重的航海軟木羅盤，這也被盜走過好幾次。”

Still， though， Henderson and his family have the last laugh on the cork disc thieves—those weren’t designed by Wright and are of little， if any， value. “We have people go walking right by the ‘private property， no trespassing’ sign. We’ve had people dancing in our carport. We get a few people wandering up as a surprise， and as long as they don’t do anything wrong， we don’t try to call the police.”

不過，亨德森及其家人還是笑到了最后，因為小偷盜走的軟木羅盤并不是賴特設計的，也不值什么錢。“有人走過‘私人住宅，非請勿入’的牌子，卻對其視而不見；有人在我們的車棚里跳舞；還有人會突然冒出來，不過只要他們不做壞事，我們盡量不報警。”

Coming to a compromise

折中之法

When it comes to living in a much-photographed place， some people try to take the good with the bad. Johnston tries to be sympathetic to travelers coming to her hometown， recalling how she loved taking pictures of historic neighborhoods like the Marais in Paris and Alfama in Lisbon. In fact， she recently found photos of herself as a teenager hanging out at the Notting Hill Carnival， years before she moved to the capital herself. “I love to travel， so I have to be pretty understanding when people travel to where I live， and I feel lucky that it’s cool enough that people want to come where I live.”

居住在經常被拍照的地方有好有壞，有的人選擇全盤接受。對來其家鄉旅游的游客，約翰斯頓盡量保持包容態度，因為她記得自己曾經也非常喜歡去歷史文化街區拍照，比如巴黎的瑪萊區和里斯本的阿爾法瑪老城區。事實上，她最近找到幾張自己少女時期的照片，當時她正在參加諾丁山狂歡節的活動。幾年后，她才搬來倫敦定居。“我愛旅游，所以肯定非常理解來我這里旅游的人。人們愿意來我生活的地方，這挺棒的，我覺得很榮幸。”

Henderson and his relatives have come to some compromises in order to let design buffs explore the home while also maintaining their privacy. They occasionally rent it out for photo shoots. In addition， they open the home to the public one day a year to benefit the local Carmel Heritage Society.

亨德森及其親屬則想出了幾個折中的辦法，既能讓建筑設計愛好者們好好參觀這棟房子，也能維護自家隱私。他們偶爾會把房子租出去，供人們拍照。此外，他們每年會安排一天公眾開放日，所得收益捐給當地的卡梅爾遺產協會。

“For us it’s a tremendous pleasure to be able to share the house and see so many people happy and excited about it，” says Henderson. “And it allows us to be able to tell people when it is open. It gives them an option to visit and we don’t have to be the Grinch2.”

“能和大家分享這棟房子，看到那么多人為之高興和興奮，我們也感到格外欣喜。”亨德森說道，“有了公眾開放日，我們就能告訴人們什么時候可以來。他們有機會來參觀，而我們也不會掃他們的興。”

1 mews house 馬廄式洋房，由17世紀至19世紀的老式建筑改建而成，老式馬車可以停在房前。這種洋房的價格非常昂貴，是倫敦社會名流和演藝人士身份的象征。