差異化改性Ｍｏｄａｌ紗及其織物的浸染工藝

萬　震　吳愛兒

文章概括了Modal散纖維的陽離子改性機理和工藝，介紹了差異化改性Modal紗線，并結合生產實際探討了改性Modal紗織物的浸染工藝。結果表明，織物溢流噴射染色技術可用于差異化改性Modal紗線的染色加工；改性織物應用活性染料可一次性染出花式紗風格，克服了傳統色紡紗“市場反應慢，半制品多”的缺陷，適于“小批量多品種”的市場發展趨勢，因而提高了Modal紗線的高附加值和高效益。

The mechanism and process for cationic modification of Modal fibers were reviewed in the paper. Differential modified Modal yarn and its fabric was briefly introduced, and the exhaust dyeing process of the fabric was discussed according to production practice. The results showed that the Jet-overflow dyeing technology could be successfully used for the modified fabric, which can create special effect like colored spun yarn by using a single dyebath. Overcoming the limitation of slow reaction to the market and much intermediate product, the modified fabric is suitable for the market development trend of multi-type and small batch, which can improve the high additional value and high benefit of Modal yarn.

Modal是一種新型高濕模量的再生纖維素短纖維。它采用歐洲櫸木漿粕經紡絲制成，具有良好的吸濕性、柔滑飄逸性和舒適性，且生產加工過程清潔無毒，其紡織品的廢棄物也可自然降解，是品質與舒適的象征。根據產品風格、生產成本和市場的需要，Modal產品可在其生產的各個環節進行染色，如散纖維、紗線、織物、成衣染色等。為使成紗獲得某種效果，如較豐富的色彩層次，朦朧的感覺，或為減少紗線的色差，可采用散纖維染色方式。染后不同色澤的Modal纖維按特定比例與白Modal纖維混紡，便可獲得絢麗多彩、風格獨特的Modal混色紗，增加了紗線的附加值。

上述的Modal混色花紗“先染色，再紡紗”加工方式，對Modal散纖維的染色均勻性、染料和加工工藝的要求較低，且出現色偏或色花等質量問題后也可在后道紡紗生產中進行彌補，但其缺點在于市場反應速度慢，著色Modal纖維半制品的數量多。為適應市場需求并做出快速反應，寧波百隆紡織有限公司將陽離子改性Modal纖維以特定比例和白Modal纖維均勻混合并紡紗，制得差異化改性Modal紗線（簡稱改性紗）?！?br>