征服美國(guó)胃的中國(guó)美食

文、譯/孫曄

征服美國(guó)胃的中國(guó)美食

Popular Chinese Dishes in the US

文、譯/孫曄

說(shuō)起中國(guó)對(duì)美國(guó)的文化輸出，你會(huì)想起什么？

李小龍？大熊貓？還是中國(guó)功夫？

毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)，這些文化符號(hào)都是非常成功的中華文化輸出，但目前還有另一種形式的中國(guó)文化也風(fēng)靡全美，那就是中國(guó)美食。

深受中國(guó)人喜愛(ài)的多種當(dāng)?shù)匦〕袁F(xiàn)在已經(jīng)攻陷了美國(guó)的大街小巷。其中有些為了適應(yīng)美國(guó)人口味做了調(diào)整，而還有一些則完全保留了其原汁原味。

下面是幾種在美國(guó)很熱門的中國(guó)小吃。

What comes to mind when we speak of cultural exports from China to the United States?

Bruce Lee, the giant panda, or kung fu?

Without a doubt, these cultural symbols are successful exports of Chinese culture, but another form of Chinese culture widely known in the US is Chinese cuisine.

Many types of local snacks, all deeply loved in China, are taking over the streets of America. Some were modified to suit to Americans’ tastes, while others retain the traditional taste of China.

Here are just some of them.

拍黃瓜

Pai huang gua (smashed cucumbers)

In a report titled Smashed cucumber salad takes Manhattan, The New York Times praised the method of smashing cucumbers in making salads as a completely new way to eat a cucumber.

As the latest trend in New York this summer, smashed cucumbers and “their craggy edges and rough surfaces absorb flavors and form relationships in seconds,” as opposed to sliced cucumbers, which tend to “shrug” off the dressing.“It’s cool how just changing the way you break down an ingredient completely changes the way it feels and tastes.”said Danny Bowien, the chef at Mission Chinese Food on the Lower East Side.

The traditional Chinese cucumber salad, or pai huang gua, is dressed with a vinaigrette of soy sauce, rice or black vinegar, chopped garlic, sugar and sesame oil. In North and West China, where spicy foods are preferred, chili oil or Sichuan peppercorns are added for that extra kick.

Smashed cucumbers have long been found in Chinese restaurants in New York, but they have branched into other types of cuisine this summer. At Mr. Bowien’s Mexican-influenced restaurant Mission Cantina, they are served with an intensely flavored dressing of lime, cumin and oreganoflavored sesame paste. At the Japanese restaurant Untitled,they are served with buckwheat noodles, baby turnips and tuna tartare.

一篇名為《拍黃瓜沙拉》的報(bào)道攻占了曼哈頓，《紐約時(shí)報(bào)》也對(duì)其大加贊賞，對(duì)這種吃黃瓜的新方式贊不絕口。

作為紐約今夏的最新風(fēng)潮，拍黃瓜“凹凸的棱角以及粗糙的表面能快速地吸收調(diào)料味道并能在數(shù)秒內(nèi)和調(diào)料融為一體，”和“油鹽不進(jìn)”的黃瓜片恰好相反。

丹尼·鮑溫是曼哈頓下東區(qū)龍山小館的主廚，他表示：“你添加調(diào)料的方法不同，會(huì)導(dǎo)致食物的口感和味道也不同，這非常奇妙。”

傳統(tǒng)的中式黃瓜沙拉，或者說(shuō)拍黃瓜，表面都裹著一層沙拉汁，由醬油、白醋或黑醋、蒜蓉、糖和芝麻油調(diào)制而成。中國(guó)北部和西部的人民嗜辣，所以有時(shí)會(huì)加辣椒油或者朝天椒來(lái)調(diào)味。

拍黃瓜在紐約中餐館里的歷史其實(shí)已經(jīng)不短了，但這道菜在這個(gè)夏天發(fā)展成好幾種美味。在鮑溫的另一家具有墨西哥風(fēng)情的小館Mission Cantina，拍黃瓜搭配的調(diào)料味道很強(qiáng)烈，有酸橙、茴香和牛至葉粉口味的芝麻醬。而在日本料理店“無(wú)題”內(nèi)，和拍黃瓜一起端上桌的還有蕎麥面、嫩蕪菁和金槍魚韃靼。

在“上等漢堡”店內(nèi)，廚師將拍黃瓜與氣味撲鼻的酸奶和墨西哥胡椒蜂蜜混合，再撒上掰碎的長(zhǎng)棍芝麻面包，創(chuàng)造出這種與中餐截然不同的小吃。

“上等漢堡”店的助理廚師茱莉亞·哥德堡和主廚兼老板布魯克斯·黑德利一起研發(fā)了這道菜譜，她表示：“拍黃瓜的棱角、形狀和大小的多樣性都讓人非常滿意。”

At Superiority Burgers, the cucumbers are mixed with tangy yogurt and jalapeno honey and sprinkled with crushed sesame breadsticks, a form that the traditional Chinese dish has never taken before.

“There’s something about the roughness, and the variety of shapes and sizes, that you get with smashing that is incredibly satisfying.” said Julia Goldberg, a sous-chef who created the recipe alongside Brooks Headley, chef and owner of Superiority Burger.

煎餅

Jian bing (grilled savory crepe)

Jian bing, a form of grilled savory crepe with stuffing, is a popular dish in North China. The mung-beanand-millet crepe is often made on a well-heated pan. Freshly scrambled egg, pickled vegetables, scallions, cilantro, black bean paste, chili sauce and a crispy fried crackers (the secret that adds a crunch to the crepe) are added on the crepe and rolled up. Often sold by street vendors, Jian bing is a popular choice for breakfast for on-the-go commuters.

Alisa Grandy, the owner of Bing Mi!, fell in love with the snack when she returned to Portland from her trip in China.

“When she got back from China, that’s all she would talk about.” says her husband Neal. Grandy spent months perfecting the right mix of ingredients to recreate the exact taste she enjoyed in China. Six months later, the couple opened a store. Business is good, as they’ve already got two crepe-makers on back order.

Bing Mi! sells a piece of jian bing for $6. In fact, it is the only item that they sell. According to Grandy’s husband, Chinese customers nostalgic for the taste of home have given their compliments.

煎餅，是一種包有內(nèi)餡兒的咸味煎薄餅，它在中國(guó)北方廣受歡迎。在燒得滾熱的平底鍋上，攤開綠豆和小米面糊烙成面餅，在面餅上打一個(gè)雞蛋，撒上泡菜、大蔥、香菜，涂上豆瓣醬、辣椒醬，然后放上一塊薄脆(讓煎餅酥脆的秘密)，再卷起來(lái)。煎餅通常是大街小巷的小販在賣，它是許多趕著上班的通勤族最愛(ài)的早餐。

艾麗莎·格蘭迪是Bing Mi的店主，在她從中國(guó)旅游回到波特蘭以后，她對(duì)煎餅的愛(ài)就一發(fā)不可收拾。

她的丈夫尼爾稱“自打她從中國(guó)回來(lái)以后，她成天都在談?wù)摷屣灐?。后?lái)格蘭迪花了好幾個(gè)月，專門研究煎餅的原料和配方，以復(fù)制她在中國(guó)嘗過(guò)的那種味道。6個(gè)月后，夫婦倆開了家店。生意非常紅火，兩個(gè)煎餅師傅都忙不過(guò)來(lái)。

Bing Mi的煎餅每個(gè)售價(jià)6美元。事實(shí)上，他們只賣煎餅。格蘭迪的丈夫稱，因思鄉(xiāng)而來(lái)品嘗故鄉(xiāng)味道的中國(guó)顧客稱贊了他們做的煎餅。

肉夾饃

Rou jia mo (Chinese hamburger)

肉夾饃，翻譯過(guò)來(lái)就是“夾了肉的小圓面包”，它和漢堡的配方類似，就是在小圓面包里夾入肉糜。

充滿嚼勁兒的饃饃通常是在土灶內(nèi)烤制或平底鍋上煎制而成，然后在里面加入讓人垂涎欲滴的風(fēng)味烤肉——這道小吃不僅火遍中國(guó)大街小巷，在海外吃貨的嘴里，也是贊不絕口。

謝云峰在紐約的哥倫比亞大學(xué)前賣肉夾饃，他在2013年還火了一把，他稱他一天能賣100多個(gè)肉夾饃。

在一則比較肉夾饃和漢堡的報(bào)告下有一則評(píng)論，一位網(wǎng)友如此說(shuō)道：“不管是東方還是西方，人們都愛(ài)把肉夾在面包或饅頭里吃?！?/p>

Rou jia mo, which translates as “meat placed between bun”, has a similar recipe to hamburgers, consisting of chopped meat inside a bun.

The chewy bun baked in a clay oven or fried in a pan and with a mouthwatering meat filling stewed in a variety of spices — is not only popular in China’s streets and alleys but also with foodies overseas.

Xie Yunfeng, a Chinese vendor selling rou jia mo in front of Columbia University in New York, became an online sensation in 2013. Xie said he could sell more than 100 rou jia mo a day.

Commenting on the reported comparison between rou jia mo and hamburgers, one Internet user said, “People like eating meat by sandwiching it between buns, whether they are in the East or the West.”

左宗棠雞

General Tao’s Chicken

名字雖然來(lái)源于左宗棠將軍，他曾在清朝居住在現(xiàn)今的湖南省境內(nèi)，但這道菜其實(shí)和他并沒(méi)多大關(guān)系。

這道菜，你不僅在湖南省會(huì)長(zhǎng)沙找不到，在他的出生地湘陰也找不到。如今他的后人仍生活在湘陰，他們表示從未聽說(shuō)過(guò)此道菜。

但是這道菜在美國(guó)境內(nèi)的中餐館里可到處都是。

“左宗棠雞”的做法是將雞塊先捶打，后油炸，再澆上一層濃郁的酸甜醬汁。這種醬汁由醬油、米酒、白醋、糖、玉米粉和干辣椒制成。

Though name of the dish comes from general Zuo Zongtang (1812-1885), who lived during the Qing dynasty in today’s Hunan province, the general himself carries little relation to the dish.

The dish General Tao’s Chicken is neither served in Changsha, the capital of Hunan province, nor in Xiangyin, the birthplace of the general. The generals’ descendants, who still live in Xiangyin, said they have never heard of such a dish.

General Tao’s Chicken can be found almost ubiquitously in Chinese restaurants in the US. The chicken chunks, battered and deep fried, are often covered with a thick sweet and sour sauce seasoned with soy sauce, rice wine, rice wine vinegar, sugar, cornstarch and dried red chili peppers.

蛋卷

Egg rolls

在中國(guó)，蛋卷一詞通常指的是炸春卷的變體，只不過(guò)表皮變厚了一些，體積大了一點(diǎn)，和雞蛋并沒(méi)有太大關(guān)系。

中國(guó)春卷的做法一般是用大米粉制成春卷皮，裹住餡料再下油鍋炸，餡兒通常由蔬菜絲和肉組成。而蛋卷皮是用面粉制成的，所以比大米粉做的春卷皮更厚。

蛋卷在美國(guó)通常是作為開胃菜，就像中國(guó)的春卷一樣。

The term egg roll often refers to a variation of fried spring rolls in China, only the wrap is thicker, the entire form bigger, and it doesn’t have much to do with eggs.

The typical spring rolls in China are made with rice dough, wrapped around fillings which often consists of julienned vegetables and sometimes meat, and then deep fried. The egg roll, however, is made with flour dough, which gives it a thicker texture as opposed to the rice wrap.

Egg rolls are often served as appetizers in the US, just as spring rolls are in China.

北京環(huán)球影城開建 投資500億

50 Billion Yuan Invested in Universal Studios Beijing

北京環(huán)球主題公園及度假區(qū)（亦稱“環(huán)球影城”）近日舉行基礎(chǔ)工程建設(shè)啟動(dòng)儀式，標(biāo)志著這項(xiàng)總投資超過(guò)500億元的全球最大環(huán)球主題公園進(jìn)入基礎(chǔ)工程建設(shè)階段。根據(jù)規(guī)劃，京哈高速和東六環(huán)將新建兩座立交橋直通園區(qū)。環(huán)球影城預(yù)計(jì)于2020年建成開園。這將是環(huán)球影城在全球的第6個(gè)、亞洲第3個(gè)主題公園。

The groundbreaking ceremony for Beijing’s Universal Studios was held recently. 50 billion Yuan has been invested in the construction of the world’s largest theme park. The park is expected to open in 2020, and will be located between Jingha Highway and the East Sixth Ring Road.The theme park will be the third Universal Studios in Asia.

施密特:谷歌想回中國(guó)提供服務(wù)

Alphabet Chairman: Google is Set to Return to China

Alphabet（谷歌母公司，以下均以谷歌代指）執(zhí)行主席施密特近日透露，谷歌一直希望能給中國(guó)提供服務(wù)。談及谷歌2012年初退出中國(guó)一事時(shí)，施密特說(shuō)：“谷歌在香港、臺(tái)灣都有辦事處，谷歌的服務(wù)器也還在香港。”施密特說(shuō)：“實(shí)際上我們希望能給中國(guó)提供服務(wù)，我們也繼續(xù)跟政府保持這樣的溝通。”施密特說(shuō)，現(xiàn)在中國(guó)有滴滴、優(yōu)步，還有亞馬遜，移動(dòng)支付有支付寶、微信支付等，10年前這些是大家都沒(méi)有想到的業(yè)務(wù)領(lǐng)域。

Eric Schmidt, executive chairman of Alphabet/Google revealed that Google hopes to provide services in China.“The interesting thing is that Google never left China.” Schmidt said of the company’s 2012 withdrawal from the Mainland. He added that Google still has servers in Hong Kong and offices in Hong Kong and Taiwan.“In fact, we hope to provide service in China, and we continue to communicate with the Chinese government.” he said. China now has Didi, Uber, Amazon, and other successful courier services. Alipay and WeChat Wallet have also taken the market by storm. 10 years ago, these kinds of businesses were not even on the radar in China.

蒂姆·庫(kù)克：蘋果加大在華投資 加快在華開設(shè)零售店

Tim Cook: Apple to Increase Investments, Open More Stores in China

蘋果CEO蒂姆·庫(kù)克近日表示：“現(xiàn)在在中國(guó)有150多萬(wàn)的開發(fā)者在iOS當(dāng)中開發(fā)應(yīng)用程序，我們鼓勵(lì)更多的人開發(fā)應(yīng)用程序?！?目前，中國(guó)區(qū)應(yīng)用總數(shù)量達(dá)到23萬(wàn)，中國(guó)的開發(fā)者從App Store已賺到了40億美元。蘋果為中國(guó)區(qū)提供了總共440萬(wàn)工作機(jī)會(huì)，其中與軟件有關(guān)的140萬(wàn)，與生產(chǎn)制造有關(guān)的300萬(wàn)，蘋果在中國(guó)的員工數(shù)量達(dá)到1萬(wàn)人。中國(guó)目前是蘋果在美國(guó)以外的最大業(yè)務(wù)市場(chǎng)，據(jù)預(yù)計(jì)，到明年年中，蘋果在中國(guó)的零售店數(shù)量將達(dá)到40家。

Apple CEO Tim Cook said that there currently are 1.5 million developers in China and that Apple is working to encourage more people to develop apps for iOS.Chinese developers have earned a total of $4 billion from 230,000 iOS apps. Apple executives have previously said that China has downloaded the most apps globally from the Apple store.Apple has created 4.4 million jobs in China: 1.4 million in software development, and 3 million in production. Apple also employs 10,000 corporate employees within China.China is now Apple’s biggest market outside the U.S., and the company hopes to reach 40 stores in China by the middle of next year.