麥克拉倫谷印象

文Tersina Shieh 編、譯 張恬熙

我在麥克拉倫谷的四周時間里，不僅拜訪了許多酒莊，還好好地探索了這個產區。

綿延起伏的山丘地勢平緩，在這里騎自行車，絲毫不會感到費勁。適合那些希望近距離感受麥克拉倫谷產區，同時也想燃燒一點卡路里的游客。徒步旅行者可以在翁卡帕林加河國家公園曲徑通幽的小路上走走，從麥克拉倫谷出發，約15分鐘就能到達一處原始海岸，這對于海灘愛好者真是非常完美！怪不得阿德萊德的居民和游客都涌向這個“游樂場”。

麥克拉倫谷產區里約有70個酒莊，令人驚奇的是這些酒莊都挨得很近。大部分酒莊都提供品鑒服務，還有少數酒莊附帶餐廳可以現場烹飪美食，這一舉措非常受歡迎，麥克斯韋酒莊就是其中之一。我參觀過的杰出酒莊有：

貝克爾斯酒莊：這是一家精品酒莊，產量只有1000箱高品質的歌海娜，西拉和歌海娜混釀，以及西拉葡萄酒。酒莊團隊由夫妻兩人，以及葡萄栽培者托比l貝克和釀酒師弗朗斯l艾曼紐組成。他們證實了15%酒精度的葡萄酒仍然可以保持優雅的高品質。艾曼紐還釀造出了一級園夏布利，使貝克爾斯葡萄酒系列更加完善。

可利樂洛莊園：沒有舊世界種種規則的束縛，新世界的釀酒師可以嘗試使用不同的葡萄品種，釀造不同風格的葡萄酒。得益于這一自由權，可利樂洛莊園將意大利品種種植在主流的赤霞珠、設拉子和歌海娜旁邊。在20世紀80年代中期，當酒莊推出桑嬌維塞時，幾乎沒有人能夠說對它的名字。從那時起，可利樂洛莊園就開始將菲亞諾、維蒙蒂諾、黑珍珠、薩格蘭蒂諾和尼格馬羅引入麥克拉倫谷。莊主馬克計劃每年嘗試一個新的葡萄品種。酒莊的菲亞諾和巴貝拉品質很好，可利樂洛珍藏西拉干紅葡萄酒也是如此。酒莊葡萄酒在由西往東葡萄酒業有售（網址：http://emw-wines.com/）。

奧利弗特朗歌葡萄園：這是一座家族酒莊，如今已歷經五代人。他們對于非主流葡萄品種也是非常熱情。除了意大利葡萄品種以外，這個家族還生產門西亞桃紅葡萄酒（原產西班牙），還有令人贊揚的丹魄和薩格蘭蒂諾。

維舞酒莊：他鄉遇故知并發現彼此有相同之處，總是一件讓人感到快樂的事。維舞酒莊的莊主安德魯l伍德就是這樣的人，我們都曾在普蘭普頓學院學習葡萄酒釀造。安德魯之所以會在麥克拉倫谷定居，是因為他沉醉于澳大利亞的美酒。但他所釀造的卻不是典型的充滿果醬味的葡萄酒，而是更加精致、更有結構感的葡萄酒。酒莊的歌海娜、蒙特普齊亞諾和丹魄都令人印象深刻。安德魯的妻子經營著一家名為“甘美紅食”的咖啡館，是當地人休閑的好去處。

亞加拉酒莊：這是杰克遜家族的一部分，亞加拉從事生物動力栽培法，特別擅長于栽種南羅納河品種，葡萄大多分布于灌木叢中種植，葡萄品種包括設拉子、歌海娜、穆爾韋德、神索、瑚珊和維歐尼。酒莊的“羅斯美人葡萄酒”就是使用100%的瑚珊在蛋形的水泥發酵器中部分發酵160天，有很好的結構感和礦物味。“鐵心設拉子”和“高砂歌海娜”酒體有深度又有內涵。

把阿德萊德作為中轉站，前往麥克拉倫谷和附近阿德萊德山產區很方便。從阿德萊德的市中心出發，僅需20分鐘時間就能到達奔富的舊址—奔富瑪吉爾莊園。在那里，你可以品嘗奔富的明星酒款葛蘭許，甚至還可以在酒莊的餐廳里享受美酒，那是一間現代化餐廳，提供美味佳肴。我設法抓住了首席釀酒師皮特l加戈，瞥見了他們剛剛推出但已經售罄的g3。遺憾的是，當時無法進行品鑒，但皮特透露了他的計劃，但我必須要保守秘密—敬請關注！

如果你的時間充裕，一定要去克萊爾谷，從阿德萊德出發3個小時車程可以到達，在那里有澳大利亞最好喝的雷司令！

My four weeks in McLaren Vale not only allowed me to visit other wineries, but also to explore the region.

The rolling hills are gentle enough for not-too-strenuous cycling,ideal for those who want to experience the region up close and at the same time, burn off a few calories. Hikers can wander around the numerous tracks in Onkaparinga River National Park and the pristine coast only 15 minutes from McLaren Vale is just perfect for beach lovers. No wonder both residents and visitors of Adelaide flock to this playground.

There are around 70 wineries in the region and they are surprisingly close together. Most offer cellar door tastings and a few, including Maxwell, have on-site restaurants that are extremely popular. The outstanding wineries I visited were:

Bekkers Wine: A boutique winery making only 1,000 cases of fine Grenache, Syrah Grenache and Syrah by husband and wife team,Toby Bekkers the viticulturist and French Emmanuelle the winemaker.They prove that wine at 15% alcohol can be elegant and with finese.Emma also makes a Chablis Premier Cru to complement the Bekkers range.

Coriole Vineyards: Bound by no rules of the Old World, New World winemakers can experiment different varieties and style of wine. Coriole takes full advantage of this freedom by planting Italian varieties alongside the mainstream Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Grenache. When they released its Sangiovese in mid 1980s,hardly anyone could pronounced the name. Since then, the winery has introduced Fiano, Vermentino, Nero d’Avola, Sagrantino and Negroamaro to McLaren Vale. Owner Mark plans to experiment with a new variety every year. Their Fiano and Barbera are outstanding, and so is the Lloyd Reserve Shiraz. Their wines are available at East Meets West Fine Wines

Oliver s Taranga Vineyards: Fifth generation family-run estate that is equally enthusiastic with non mainstream grape varieties. In addition to Italian varieties, the family also produces a Mencia Rosé(Spain), as well as thumbs-up Tempranillo and Sagrantino.

Waywood Wine: It’s always nice to meet someone in a faraway land and found out we are connected. Andrew Wood, owner of Waywood Wine is one such person as we both learned winemaking at Plumpton College. What attracted Andrew to settle down in McLaren Vale was his fondness of big Australian wine but what he actually made is not the typical jammy wine, but more refined and textural.The Grenache, Montepulciano and Tempranillo were impressive.Andrew’s wife runs the charming Luscious Red Food, a relaxed café on site.

Yangarra Estate Vineyard: Part of the Jackson Family, Yangarra practises biodynamic viticulture and specialises in Southern Rhone varieties mainly in bush vines including Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre,Cinsault, Rousanne and Viognier. Their Roux Beaurte, a 100%Rousanne partly fermented in cement egg for 160 days has beautiful texture and minerality. The Ironheart Shiraz and High Sands Grenache are restrained with depth.

It is convenient to use Adelaide as a base to visit McLaren Vale and the nearby Adelaide Hills wine region. And when you are in Adelaide, Penfolds Magill Estate, the original home of Penfolds, is just 20 minutes from city centre. Drop by to taste their icon wine Grange,and even better, enjoy the wine at their Kitchen, a modern eatery that serves delicious food. I managed to catch up with chief winemaker Peter Gago and had a glimpse of their new but sold out creation g3.Unfortunately there was not tasting but Peter made it up by disclosing his future plan that I have to keep secret - watch this space!

If you have more than a few days to spare, make sure to drive up to Clare Valley, about 3 hours from Adelaide, for some of the best Australian Rieslings.