啤酒加香腸

趙青奇

啤酒和香腸無疑是德國最具代表性的美食。每一個踏上德國土地的人，都難以拒絕一杯純正德國啤酒的誘惑，也難以對一根風味獨特的香腸說“不”。它們沿襲了德意志民族古老的傳統，也訴說著德國各地不同的歷史和風俗。

The British Museum has in its collection drinking vessels1） from all around the world， but the German collection is striking for its quantity of glasses， mugs， tankards2） and other vessels—primarily made for the drinking of beer. Mostly from the 16th and 17th centuries， theyre made of all sorts of different materials， and they come from everywhere in the German-speaking world.

Tall glasses from Switzerland， stoneware3） tankards from Cologne， covered beakers4） from Austria， and silver-gilt5） mugs from Hamburg. Looking at this array， it is clear that Germans everywhere not only enjoy beer， but celebrate it in style6）.

And they seem to have been doing it for at least 2，000 years. In fact it is almost the first thing that any foreigner wrote about them.

Around 100 AD the Roman historian Tacitus7）， in his Germania， talks of the fair-haired， blue-eyed tribes which had given the legions8） such trouble along the Rhine9）， of the more distant ones who gathered amber on the Baltic10）， and of what they all had in common： “A liquor for drinking is made of barley11） or other grain， and fermented into a certain resemblance to wine. To pass an entire day and night in drinking disgraces no one.”

Later archaeology confirmed Tacituss observation of heavy， happy drinking among the German tribes. This is in part why， when Germany later needed to forge a new sense of identity， beer in the 19th century became a touchstone of being German.

Regional beers are what have defined German towns， cities and localities for centuries. And that sense of strong local identity is strikingly apparent on the beer tankards in the British Museum. On one after another， they display the arms of the different cities or the different princes. These drinking cups， made by master craftsmen out of precious materials， are clearly intended as statements of civic pride.

They also have a very significant function to perform. Legal contracts， trade deals， oaths of allegiance12） were often concluded by Zutrinken， a pledge of good faith—drunk usually in beer—not unlike a handshake that seals the deal. Out of grand ceremonial tankards like these， the different parties to the agreement would drink in turn， in a public， ceremonial act of assent. Given the size of some of the tankards—in some cases， several litres—it seems that Tacitus was not exaggerating when he described the German fondness for drinking.

To go with the beer， there is the other great emblem of Germanys national diet—wurst， the sausage. Wurst， like beer， defines Germanys cities and regions. Every region has its wurst and its claimed that there are 1，200 of them—thats more than three times as many as the French have cheeses.

In Britain our national dishes are traditionally roast beef， and fish and chips， but how many of us know how， when， where they originated？ How many of us care？ It is quite different in Germany： Beer and sausage embody centuries of national， regional and local history； they are living assertions of local diversity and regional trading links—the gastronomic13） equivalents of the flourishing regional dialects. They have a special place in the regional and local memory—and indeed in the national psyche.

Food correspondent Peter Peter describes sausage as “history on the plate.”

“Traditionally， manufacturing sausages was a very complicated feat14） of craftsmanship—you needed a lot of experience to mince the meat， to add exotic spices to preserve it，” he says.

“So it was the pride and privilege of German free towns， and still nowadays， a lot of sausages bear the names of historically relevant towns.”

Take the Nurembergers from Nuremberg， for example， small sausages about the size of a finger.

“They have added cinnamon15） and other spices. Because Nuremberg was the twin city of Venice， they had a privileged access to the oriental spices.”

The nuremberger sausage may not be familiar to non-Germans， but everyone knows the frankfurter16）. The basic， bland sausage in a bun is available on nearly every street corner across Germany， and across Europe and America as well： smoky， finely minced meat， almost to a paste， then plastered with mustard or tomato ketchup. But the frankfurter did not begin like that.

“The frankfurter， the famous frankfurter， they started as a coronation17） sausage， in Frankfurt for the Roman emperor，” explains Peter.

“They grilled an ox when the emperor was crowned and they filled it with these sausages and it was luxury because of the finest mincemeat. People abroad bought these things because the name of Frankfurt gave them the idea of luxury.”

So next time you tuck into a frankfurter， just think for a moment of the link between the humble hot dog and the imperial pageantry18） in Frankfurt Cathedral.

In the late 19th Century， food production became mechanised in Germany， as it did elsewhere， and wurst manufacture， traditionally a cottage industry19）， fell victim to the trend. The ability to finely mince meat was no longer a sign of quality and craftsmanship—instead it allowed anything， and frequently everything， to be included in the sausage， making it the food of the proletarian20） poor. And in Berlin， the fastest growing city in Europe at the time， it became notoriously difficult to be sure what was actually in a Berlin sausage. Hence the famous—though probably apocryphal21）—remark by Bismarck22）， that citizens do not really want to know how either laws or sausages are made.

Fifty years later， the poor quality of Berlin sausages was to have a very unexpected consequence. Museums are dedicated to material evidence， and， disappointingly， sausages leave few physical traces. Unlike beer， with its rich legacy of glasses and tankards， sausages have few dishes or utensils23） that are exclusively connected to them， and so museums struggle to tell the tale of the wurst， which is why it was with surprise and delight that， a few years ago， the international museum community discovered that we all had a new colleague， the Currywurst Museum in Berlin.

The museums existence speaks of the astounding success of a very late arrival on the wurst scene， not the heir to proud traditions of an Imperial Free City24）， but the result of food shortages in post-1945 Berlin.

“Currywurst was invented by the help of an unknown British soldier， who sold curry powder on the black market in Berlin in the late 40s. And for these very cheap sausages， they need some sensory contrast， so they decided to sprinkle curry powder on the sausage，” says Peter.

“It was a time when we frenetically25） discovered foreign dishes， so it was interesting having something Indian， something exotic. It became a symbol of a town that had never had excellent sausages.

“After 1989， Berlin became very popular； a lot of Germans discovered Berlin—so going to a currywurst stall became an experience of a lot of young people. So a dish that in a certain way is a white trash26） dish became a symbol of visiting Berlin， of young lifestyle.”

To the British observer， Germany is a nation of startling diversity. Regional specialities represent centuries of regional history—different beers and locally distinct sausages， all managed by national regulations that began 500 years ago27） and that say one thing： This is German.

大英博物館的藏品中有來自世界各地的飲酒器具，但其中德意志民族的藏品因其數量繁多的玻璃杯、帶柄大杯、大啤酒杯等器具而引人注目，而它們主要是用來飲啤酒的。這些器具大多誕生于16和17世紀，制作材料多種多樣，產地遍布德語世界。

瑞士的高腳玻璃杯、科隆的粗陶啤酒杯、奧地利的帶蓋大口杯、漢堡的鍍金帶柄杯……看著這些陳列，你就明白各地的德意志人不僅愛喝啤酒，還以華麗的方式來贊美它。

他們的這一習俗似乎已有至少2000年的歷史。事實上，凡是外國人寫到德意志民族，他們首先寫的幾乎總是這一點。

公元100年前后，羅馬歷史學家塔西佗曾在《日耳曼尼亞志》一書里寫道，萊茵河畔那些金發碧眼的部落令羅馬軍團頭痛不已，還有一些更為遙遠的部落在波羅的海采集琥珀，這些部落有一個共同點：“他們飲用一種酒，這種酒以大麥或其他谷物為原料釀成，發酵后跟葡萄酒有幾分相似。就算晝夜痛飲此酒，也沒人覺得這樣有何不體面。”

塔西佗對日耳曼部落縱情飲酒的記載后經考古學得到證實。這在一定程度上可以解釋為什么日后德國需要重塑民族認同感時，啤酒在19世紀成為德國人身份的檢驗標準。

幾百年來，地方啤酒一直充當著德國城鎮、城市和地區的名片，而大英博物館收藏的啤酒杯鮮明地體現了這種強烈的地方認同感。一件又一件的啤酒器具呈現出不同城市或不同王公所用的徽章。這些出自能工巧匠之手、采用貴重材料打造的酒杯顯然意在彰顯民眾的自豪感。

這些酒杯還發揮著一個至關重要的作用。當時的法律合同、貿易協議和效忠宣誓的收尾環節通常都要飲酒（德語為Zutrinken）——一般是喝啤酒——以此作為誠實守信的一種承諾，相當于握手達成協議。協議各方用這些為禮儀場合定制的華麗酒杯依次飲酒，通過一種公開的禮儀行為來表示贊成。鑒于一些酒杯如此之大——有些容量可達數升——塔西佗對日耳曼人迷戀啤酒的描述似乎并非夸張之詞。

德國還有一樣與啤酒相伴的極具代表性的民族美食——香腸（德語為wurst）。像啤酒一樣，香腸也是德國城市和地區的名片。每個地區都有各自的香腸，種類據說達1200種，是法國奶酪種類的三倍還要多。

烤牛肉和炸魚薯條是英國的傳統國民食物，可有多少英國人知道它們是何時、何地、如何誕生的？有多少人在意呢？德國的情況則迥然不同：啤酒和香腸體現著國家、區域和地方數百年的歷史，是地方多樣性和區域貿易往來的鮮活見證，是與繁榮不息的地區方言功能相當的美食。它們在一區一地的記憶里——乃至在國民心中——占據著特殊的位置。

美食記者彼得·彼得稱香腸為“盤中的歷史”。

“傳統上，香腸制作是一項非常復雜的手藝絕活兒，剁肉和添加異域防腐香料都需要豐富的經驗。”他說。

“因此，香腸制作曾是德國自由城鎮的驕傲和殊榮。如今仍有很多香腸被冠以歷史上相關城鎮的名字。”

比如源自紐倫堡的紐倫堡香腸，這種香腸個頭較小，只有手指般大。

“紐倫堡香腸添加了肉桂等香料。由于紐倫堡和威尼斯是友好城市，那里的人們有幸可以使用東方的香料。”

對于紐倫堡香腸，德國以外的人可能并不熟悉，但法蘭克福香腸卻是無人不知。這種普通的淡味香腸裹在面包里，幾乎遍布德國以及歐美各國的每個街角：香腸里灌著煙熏味的剁成近乎糊狀的碎肉，然后抹上芥末或番茄醬食用。不過，法蘭克福香腸起初并不是這個樣子。

“法蘭克福香腸，著名的法蘭克福香腸，最初是羅馬皇帝在法蘭克福的加冕儀式上用的香腸。”彼得解釋說。

“羅馬皇帝加冕時，人們烤了一頭牛，里面就填著這種香腸。那是一道珍品美味，因為選用的是最上等的碎肉。外國人購買這種香腸就是因為法蘭克福這個名字給了他們一種奢華的感覺。”

所以，下次你大口吃著法蘭克福香腸時，不妨稍花片刻時間思考一下這不起眼的熱狗與法蘭克福大教堂那場皇家盛典之間的淵源。

19世紀晚期，德國像其他地方一樣，開始走上食品生產的機械化道路。傳統上作為家庭手工業的香腸制造受到這一趨勢的沖擊。精細剁肉的本領不再是質量和手藝的標志，香腸變得可以容納任何食材，而且常常是無所不包，這使它成為無產階級勞苦大眾的食物。在柏林這個當時歐洲發展最快的城市，要弄清柏林香腸里到底填著什么成了一件盡人皆知的難事，因此才有俾斯麥的那句名言——雖然可能是杜撰的——他說對于法律或香腸，人們其實并不想知道它們是怎么來的。

而在50年后，品質差勁的柏林香腸將迎來一個十分出人意料的結果。博物館是為陳列實物證據而設的，遺憾的是，香腸留下的實物痕跡微乎其微。就啤酒而言，流傳下來的各種酒杯數量豐富；而香腸則不然，鮮有專用的碟碗器具與之相關聯，因此博物館在講述香腸歷史的時候難免捉襟見肘。正因為如此，幾年前當我們發現國際博物館界新添一員——柏林的咖喱香腸博物館時，我們感到既驚又喜。

這一博物館的存在證明了咖喱香腸作為香腸領域后起之秀的驚人成功。它不是某個帝國自由城市驕傲傳統的承襲者，而是二戰后柏林食品短缺的衍生物。

“咖喱香腸的發明得益于一位不知名的英國士兵。這位士兵在40年代后期曾在柏林的黑市販賣咖喱粉。那些價格很低的香腸需要一些東西來提味，于是人們決定往香腸上撒咖喱粉。”彼得說。

“那個年代，我們狂熱地發掘外國食物，因此這種帶有印度特色、異國情調的東西讓人們很感興趣。咖喱香腸就此成為柏林這個從未出過優質香腸的城市的標志。

“1989年之后，柏林人氣大漲，很多德國人開始了解柏林，很多年輕人開始光顧咖喱香腸攤。如此一來，在某種程度上屬于勞苦大眾食物的咖喱香腸成為到訪柏林的一個標志，成為年輕人生活方式的一種體現。”

在英國觀察人士看來，德國是一個多樣性出奇豐富的國家。地方特產代表著數百年的地方歷史——不同種類的啤酒和獨具地方風味的香腸仍受制于500年前的國家規定，這些規定訴說著一個意思：這就是德國。